DP301-010 Nag fix

[t160hq]

If you have one of these models you may have
noticed the serious error nag. That may be a
bit of a understatement. :-)

Well this is what worked for me.

Write the P188 version of the TSOP software
to the unit. Replacing the 189 version with the
TSOP lock detecting software. Unlock the
eeprom. Yes they found a way to detect a eeprom
lock as well.

To sum up:

Load P188 TSOP software
Run the TSOP locked
Run the eeprom unlocked
No changes to card.

t160hq

If you need the P188 software let me know
and I'll upload it to mili's ftp site.

[crackbaby]

How does dishnet/bev receive firmware updates via the stream... does the receiver just need to be on and hooked up dish?

[t160hq]

Receiver has to be hooked up to a dish.
Plugged in and powered down (green power
light off) to receive a firmware update from
dish.

The receiver will automatically turn itself on
and start receiving the update if it is not at
the current revision for that model.

Even with a TSOP lock it will try to update
if powered down. It can't, but it will lock up
trying. Power has to be cycled to restore
operation in these cases.

t160hq

[t160hq]

>I have downloaded your 188 s/w,

Not mine I haven't uploaded any. Nobody said
they needed it. Or I missed it when they did.

>used the flashedit program to change the files with my IRD, and >my box keys and saved them, also virginized the eeprom and >saved, upon reading back the modified files noticed some >unreadable characters, is this normal?

No
Flashedit is the correct program to use to change the
boxkeys and ird number. Now it works but it does
have one bug. This may only apply to the 301-010
only haven't tried it with any other two chip models.

When you load the file in flash edit you must load
flash2 first then a second window will open up for
flash1. Once loaded change your boxkeys and ird
numbers. Delete the ones listed then type in your
own. Then check fix CRC. Use the save
feature and save both files.

This is the tricky bit. The files will be missnamed
as to flash 1 and 2 when saved. Just change the
number in the name of the saved flash files.
Make flash1 flash2. Then make flash2 flash1.

Flashedit expects the boot flash to be flash 1.
In a 301-010 flash2 has the boot up info.

This change has to be made before flashing
to the receiver. Only change it if you modifiy
with flashedit and save the files with that
program. Jkeys properly reads and saves the
files with the correct names.

To double check you have them named correctly
for flashing with jkeys. Open up the flash files
with a program like hexworkshop. Flash 1 will
have a bunch of hex numbers at the beginning
of the file. Flash2 will have just a few hex numbers
at the beginning with a lot of FFFFFFFFFFF's
after.

>should I worry at all about this?

Only if you flashed it to the receiver with the
modified files from flashedit as saved by flashedit.

>how do i input my 3100.010 IRD #, and the box keys?

>do I change my atmega with the data available on 188 s/w files

I don't know. Never used atmega.

>can you expand the process of changing the s/w from 189 to 188

Use jkeys to erase one tsop at a time and write
the flash files you created with flashedit.
Erase and write the flashes one at a time.
Start with flash1 since a bad write on this one
won't give you much of a problem. After a sucessful
erase and write to flash 1 move on to flash 2.

One last note about flash edit. It does not correctly
create a virgin eeprom. It only writes the first 24 bytes
then FF's the rest. A correct virgin eeprom has the first
48 bytes including the checksum. The best method
for creating a virgin eeprom is to use a editor like
hexworkshop. Read you current eeprom with jkeys
and save it. Open up the saved file with hexworkshop.
Count out the first 48 bytes. FF out the rest from
byte 50 to the end. For those that don't know
one byte is two characters. 2A would count as
one byte. So 2A 45 98 56 DF would be 5 bytes.

t160hq

[crackbaby]

I don't really have experience but this was posted by t160hq under a different post

Two things. There is a hit currently on the 301-010 receiver
only. Do not lock the eeprom (the little 8 pin ic) and make
sure your receiver is at revsion P188 then lock
the TSOP.

t160hq


Hope this helps

[crackbaby]

have you checked the echostar TSOP bank on Mili's download page? There's tons there.

[t160hq]

Originally posted by tierzero
I did look but I didnt see a p188 eab* tsop-I cant get an older one because I cant let it upgrade (p189 has a tsop lock nag).

Sorry tierzero I don't have that build of the 301-010
TSOP. You might try using another build like eaea.
I have used this on several other builds with no
ill effects. The 301-010 seems to be very forgiving
and works with almost any 010 TSOP build
flashed to it.

t160hq

[t160hq]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jofe_59
[B]to t160hq or anyone else w/ experience:

I'm running the D/N at 61.5 w/ P188 and mega128, tsop locked , and Eeprom unlocked, still getting nags every 15 minutes.

what other steps could overcome this?



I'm not sure what a mega128 is but i'm assuming
it's something similar to a Atmega. You'll have to
change the tiers on the mega128. Most likely
either a 3m tier or a PPV tier is causing the nag.

t160hq

[t160hq]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jofe_59
[B]to t160hq or anyone else w/ experience:

I'm running the D/N at 61.5 w/ P188 and mega128, tsop locked , and Eeprom unlocked, still getting nags every 15 minutes.

what other steps could overcome this?


I just had a thought on this. Every 15 miniutes sounds
like the TSOP lock nag. Check your lock connections
and make sure they are right and have a solid
connection.

Are you using a digital lock?

If so make sure you have the correct IC for the
single IC lock. For a 301 you can't use something
like a 74HCT02 for the lock. Not fast enough. You
need to use a 74HC02 a much faster IC.

Also a 74AC02 can be used. A 74ACT02 will not
work. See the pattern? If it has a T before the
02 it won't work. Get the version of the IC
without the T.

t160hq

[t160hq]

Originally posted by HeartofDarkness
t160hq -

Thanks for this info.

One update. You said about FlashEdit:



I used FlashEdit2 and didn't have this problem. Should I upload a copy of FlashEdit2 to milli's ftp site?

Thanks again.

By all means upload. I've been using FlashEdit 1-3-1.
Had no idea there was a new version.

t160hq

[t160hq]

All uploads go to:

dssftp.com

Couldn't wait though found it at another site.
It's great! I'll use it for everything from now on.

t160hq

[decoratorstudio]

I've been using "Gold" lock from dishtesters dot com for almost a month. Works great, and as with dishlock dot com, only one extra wire--DQ7-- to add.

When I get the time, I'm gonna try the software lock, available at the files section, to see how that works. I hear it's a winner, and no hardware to mess with.

[Mars]

IceRock, check my post in TSOP/EEPROM lock section "LSI control unavailable..." see if it helps you.

[silln]

My receiver has p189eaed I tryed p188eaea And get a black screen. What other p188 can i try?

[t160hq]

My receiver has p189eaed I tryed p188eaea And get a black screen. What other p188 can i try?

silln

EAED and EAEA are the same build. In spite of the
different last letter. Must be something else wrong.

Did you put your boxkeys and IRD number and fix the CRC on the bin before you flashed it to the receiver?

t160hq

[silln]

I don’t remember if I fixed the CRC I will try again. I think there is something wrong with my digital lock
Because with p189 I get nag message every 3 min, when other people get it every 15min.

[phiberoptik]

Why would you want to run P188? If your lock is any good, you don't need to run the old firmware to avoid the 155 nag caused by the junk byte in P189 and up. Most locks made today will sidestep this problem. Any lock with a DQ7 line already has this issue worked out. The firmware for this receiver is currently at P214 and that's what you should be running. You're going to lose channels with old firmware like that.

For $15.00, you can buy a lock that not only bypasses the 155 nag, but reboots the receiver for you and returns it right back to the channel you were watching, instead of displaying the 153 error and making you get up to pull the card when it gets an ECM. Why mess with an old software that won't properly support the current channel map? This just doesn't make sense.

[phiberoptik]

I'm very familiar with the jlocks board. It's a DQ1 / DQ4 lock, so the lock is obsolete for Dish, but the buffered jtag built into that is still good. There's no reason to remove it. That buffered jtag works nicely.

Just disconnect the DQ1, DQ4, WE# IN, and WE# OUT lines from it. Leave everything else and put in another lock. You could cut the traces on the jlocks board so that you can use the switch to control another lock. That won't affect the buffer operation at all.

Since your receiver came from jlocks, you already have the trace cut near FID17. You already have the WE# IN connection next to the trace cut and the WE# out connection between the 2 tsop chips. You'll need to add a wire for DQ7 near the flash chip below the trace cut.

Most of the work is already done for you from the jlocks installation. If you use the AR105-B, you can mount the lock on top of the two flash chips with a dab of hot glue or some double stick tape. You'll find that the connection points that you have on the jlocks board are identical to the connection points needed for the AR105-B. You'll need to use the power connections as shown in the instructions for the new lock, as the jlocks board will still need to be connected to power for VCC to the buffer chip.

I'd use the slide switch that ships with the AR105-B and mount it to the above right of the card slot, behind the card slot door, but that's entirely up to you. You could cut the traces on the jlocks board and use the same toggle switch, you could mount the slide switch on the new lock's PCB, or you could use another switch anywhere you want to put it. That's up to you.

This is a box that I bought from jlocks.com back when they were around. i had a G2 card in it and it worked fine for many months. When it went down and the Guardian people were gone, I put it up until I could spend some time trying to figure it out. The box came with an eeprom lock, a tsop lock and a jtag connector already installed. I took the cover off and it is one inclusive board. I really don't want to have to uninstall the entire thing just to put another tsop lock in it.

Any ideas? I would like to get this box working.

[phiberoptik]

Obiwan64, You got PM.