CHief, 001438 help F150 again

[fubr]

Hey Guys
Here is what happened, Went to town and on the HWy heard a noise from engine sonded more like a dry cam rather than a ligter knocking.
We change routesd pulled into autopzone and got some mystery oil and slick 50 and shit to change oil.
took shortest ruout home 1 mile away it went dead at the turn in,
local preacher pulled us home and I changed the oil and added the slick 50 into it.
some chunks of goo came out into oil catch pan and I turnrd the crank to ber sure bearings were free.
Runs good idling and the dry sound went away so I gave it some gas and heard bad knoking from top end maily on driver side.
I am thinking lifters or stoped up lifter rod not letting oil through.
I think I should start on taking the valve cover off and investigate ther.
Question is what do you guys think it may be. I dont feel like tearing the whole sum bitch apart, Something to do with cam or lifters?

was not a grinding sound to start with or a knocking sound but more of a rubbing sound similar to an exaust blow by but it is not the exaust just sounded like it to begin with,

ok guys I humbly await you advise.

[lefty]

Here is what happened, Went to town and on the HWy heard a noise from engine sonded more like a dry cam rather than a ligter knocking.

If it sounds more like a ticking (higher in pitch), I'd suspect the rocker arm, valve spring, pushrod or lifter.

If it sounds more like a knock (deeper in pitch), I'd suspect the wrist pin, piston or rod bearing.

Here's hoping it ain't serious! Things like that usually strike when the pocket book is low.

:cool:

[fubr]

I am thinking the rocker arm is loose, goint to take vaulve cover off tomorrow I was hoping somebody new a trick or two to keep me from getting any surprises, no way to know till I get the valve cover off.
Had to fix the A/Cin the house first it was hot today.
maybe all the fix is under the valve cover. pulling manifold will involve evry night after work.
It is my landlord's / freind / boss truck,
thing is we were loading ford 8n front end loader tractor to take to shop on the way ,
guess that will wait. lol

[BirdieMod]

I'd second pulling the valve cover and checking the rockers out. Sounds like a exhaust valve maybe not opening properly, Don't run it like that or it will cause more damage.

Hopefully you find a rocker nut loosened up and you and easy fix :)

[BirdieMod]

I'd second pulling the valve cover and checking the rockers out. Sounds like a exhaust valve maybe not opening properly, Don't run it like that or it will cause more damage.:)

Hopefully you find a rocker arm nut loosened up and you have a easy fix :)

[mopar611]

Hi Fubr,

If you cant seem to get that rocker any tighter, check the pushrod also to make sure it didnt get bent. Just to check before teariing it apart.

I hope you didnt wipe a lobe....Mopar

[fubr]

rocker arms are tight. will check rods tomorrow night, going to pul oil pan and chech for metal in oil to . Gonna make sur before I pull the crank.
weird sound iy is not a knock like a spun bearing knock and it not a ping?
more like metal on metal rubbing dry.

thanks guys will let ya know what happens this weekend I will either fix it or get the chain hoist out.

[BirdieMod]

That does not sound good!!
Might pull spark plugs and look if one is fouled bad like cracked piston or broken rings.
Rotate the motor a little too when checking rockers, The cam may be pushing on the rocker making it seem tight.

[BirdieMod]

Oh OH, Been a day and no news???

Hopefully when you pulled the pan big chunks did not fall and knock you out my freind....

[fubr]

been long days at the salt mine Birdie,
no big chunks yet, will be best to start digging fresh saterday morning.
gona drop pan just to see, then start with rocker arm check then push rods if I find nothing
I am going to start digging till I find the problem I layer at a time , oh and the ole spark plug check first too to see which cylinder I need to concentrate on.

I am thinking (hoping) it is main cam shaft bearing rather than a crank bearing but I know murphys law,,
Timing chain has one trip to Texas and a few more thousand local miles on it so it should still be good. I dont think any valves are warped so maybe it is the cam bearing, will know by the heat of the day on saturday
BTW this is a F15 5.0 thick film intergrated FI
Thinking almost WTF and getting chain hoist out and go ahead and rebuild top and bottom instead od just this fix which will prob end up being cam anyway.
just does not sound like a cam bearing to me????
idles to smooth and the knock is not low pitch enough tto be from the bottom.

see ya later thanks for thinking bout me hard head getting banged up..lol

[4x4]

I wonder if it is a bent pushrod scraping on the casting ???
I would check up top first , is it on the left or right bank , can you hear a difference ??
If so check the valve train ....

[fubr]

left
I got one push rod that spins around while idling, all are getting oil and all rockers are tight.
none are loose indicating thee is no collapsed lifter only the one that spins while idling, and it torqued to specs.
Heard an ols tale that a cracked flywheeel will give the same sound as a blown motor so going to check but that would not explain it going dead and getting hot and backfilling with whit smoke when it did.
then going to check compression on each cylinder then drop oil pan and chech wrist pins on rods.
If nothin apparent then I guse it is time to start digging.
got to work today so tomorrow gonna hit it hard and will know by days end what the problem is.
will check the vaulve train 4X4 before I go taking shit off.
thanks for all the info guys it helps to get a plan before hand, nice to take a break from the ole rat race and do some rachett twisting once in a while too. ofcousre after a few busted knuckles and back starts hurting I will be cussing the ole ford engineers

[midwest]

its the rist pin. you will be throwing a rod pretty soon.

[mopar611]

Kind of got me interested in your problem. Let us know what it is as soon as you find out. Mopar

[fubr]

HEll I forgot been working so much,
SPUN bearring (number2) on crank.
waiting on it to be turned, getting new cam and lifters, timing chain has less then 3000 miles so it is staying. will find out about the valves when the surface the heads.
should get by with honing clyniders but will have to see when they check it if not then block is getting punched.
I see no visible problems with vaule train only obviuos problem was number 2 crank bearing almsot fell into my hand and bolts were loose on cap.
will put back together saterday and drop it back in sunday

[keltic]

Hope that your getting the rod resized or replaced and #6 resized also.Can save you a lot of time down the road.Also if your putting in new rings and bearings than you need to atleast have the valves ground.If not then the valves will be weak and you will be pulling the head and having a valve job done sooner than you expected.

[Awoll1]

I would love to sell ya a real truck. Got to get rid of it now that I moved to CA... damn smog laws :(

[fubr]

I would love to buy a real truck.
getting the block punched and rods resized. machine shop should be done anyday now ,
have not heard about the heads yet I am sure they got the royal treatment though the entire nine yards!!.

[fubr]

3 pistons re-sized, complete head rework new vaulve, cam, timing cain, lifters,
cam turned fixing to start snapping it together , anything I am forgetting?
like old tricks not in the book or general knowledge from somebody who does this shit all the time.

[4x4]

Pushrods good ??

Roll them on a flat surface to find out ...

[fubr]

Yes Sirr did that when I took them out. all are straight and I cleaned 'em with emry cloth and sprayed air thru them. can see daylight and they were all oiling ok so we did not get new pushrods. Or rocker arms, hope that does not become a problem!!!

[fubr]

I adjusted the valves BY THE book but am not comfortable with it.
anyway, it will crank, I pulled the pip and static timed it then set it to the emmisions label setting for 10 degrees BTDC. It is right on the money with timing light.
While idling smoth (kinda) if I giver her some gas she sputters and back fires.
It has been so long and the parts and my marks on vacuum hoses got mixed up and I am getting no cacuum on the port that comes out of the upper intake.
only vacuum I really feel is the real pvc from vaule cover to back of upper intake.
The port on top of intake that runs to MAP and emmisions and that port on firewall is BLOWING not sucking.
Also on throttle body there are two line t-eed into one I do not know where it goes.
It will run for a minute but when it heats up and the eec starts getting warm reradings from the map it starts to screw up. plus the blowing from the top???
how can I bypass some of this shit and get to ground zero.
Is my valves fuck up?
is my vacuum essential to be 100% correct.Is the throttle position sensor maybe off because it clicked when I put it back on and I took it off and lined it up done the electrical test on it and it is working but could it be reveresed.

been real busy finally got on this and put it back together, I knew better than to wait but know this shit has left my memory.

WTF did I not take digital pics or use color tape or paint... I knoe better but was expecting to be back on it in 3 days and that was 3 weeks ago.

ok guys throw me a bone and thanks for the tips earlier. they helped more than the book or the guy at machine shop.

I need a vacuum diagram but for some reason that year and motor size was fuirst with the tdi- eec -EFI and schematics are scarce. all I can find is for carbourated models.
sorry for the essay but trying to get all info in thanks for taking time to read.