correct 508 vidmod with no R331?

[volki]

ok, i have searched this forum for the correct vidmod for the 508 PVR receiver with no R331 and have seen conflicting statements. the marking is there for the resistor, but it isn't there. i just want to have the CORRECT vidmod procedure for this receiver instead of frying it. please, if anyone can provide a detailed procedure with pictures if possible i would appreciate it.

again, i have the 508 receiver with no R331 resistor (although the board is marked for it, but no resistor). have two GT chips at U6 AND U7. please help, just got the receiver and can't wait to get it up and going with a rom 10 or magic card.

[skinerd]

I just finished a 510 fitting the same description you give for the 508.

I used the point A, B, C, method, and cut the trace between the flash chips, and on bottom of the board, as shown in SOME of the guides.

[volki]

ok, thanks for the help. can you advise which guide? i have found numerous guides and just want the right one. again, don't want to fry this receiver, so i want to make sure prior to continuing. also, when does pin 1 have to be grounded, when writing to the tsop or reading?

[skinerd]

ok, thanks for the help. can you advise which guide? i have found numerous guides and just want the right one. again, don't want to fry this receiver, so i want to make sure prior to continuing. also, when does pin 1 have to be grounded, when writing to the tsop or reading?


I am attaching the guide I used, is shows r331, but use this guide anyway, it worked for me. I got worried after reading some of the other guides and found this one to be the best. IMG_0004 is a little unclear but make that cut, it's VERY nescessary.

[ynot-try]

rechecked this 510 i have this is what i have in the 331 area not the same as a 508 so where do i need to connect the wire or do i not need it?

[skinerd]

rechecked this 510 i have this is what i have in the 331 area not the same as a 508 so where do i need to connect the wire or do i not need it?


The 510 I just finished was exactly like that, I soldered a wire in the point just above R325 and cut the trace between the flash chips.

I am working on another 510 now, and will have more info tomorrow. There may be something else to consider and I want to investigate before posting on it.

[volki]

ok, mine looks just like the pic ynot posted, no R331 resistor but silkscreened for one. thanks again for your help.

[eddiemiller]

What if any is the difference for this one , it says its the 501/508 no R331 vid mod

[skinerd]

What if any is the difference for this one , it says its the 501/508 no R331 vid mod


Did you look at the other one?

It uses A,B,C points and includes a trace cut betwen the flash chips, and I just finished 2 510 conversions and it worked flawless.

The one you posted, don't hook up the 12v, then flip switch to vid mod, so the 2 wires will be open, see if the center with has 3.3v on it, if it does, would you then apply 12v to the switch? I sure would not.

[volki]

i tried the first method mentioned, and it would not work. my receiver will not power on. will try the one with points A,B, and C with the cut between the flash chips.

[skinerd]

i tried the first method mentioned, and it would not work. my receiver will not power on. will try the one with points A,B, and C with the cut between the flash chips.


The one with only wires A and B can smoke your receiver.......with that method followed exactly, you connect 12v to 3.3v. If yours won't power on, it may be a goner.
Before proceeding, I would veryfy all the voltages in the power supply, the connector the goes between boards is clearly marked as to what they should be.

[volki]

when i open JKeys and go into flash programming and try to change address 7FFFFFAC from D500 to 0000 it tells me "FLASH OPERATION COMPLETED WITH INCORRECT DATA READ BACK." after that i check this address again and still get D500 at this location.

i don't have a "OJ1" or pad 1 grounded, not sure if this is why. any suggestions? receiver still won't power on though.

[skinerd]

when i open JKeys and go into flash programming and try to change address 7FFFFFAC from D500 to 0000 it tells me "FLASH OPERATION COMPLETED WITH INCORRECT DATA READ BACK." after that i check this address again and still get D500 at this location.

i don't have a "OJ1" or pad 1 grounded, not sure if this is why. any suggestions? receiver still won't power on though.


Try jumping the OJ1 connections, either that or the vid mod is not functional, no 12v to the flash chip.

[volki]

Skinerd..thanks for your help and patience, first time for me working on a 508. will search on the OJ1 connection and try that. the 12V connection appears to be good, wired to the 12V spot on the power supply board, will check it with a multimeter to be sure.

also, just curious, what is the purpose of hooking up "Wire A" near the R331 resistor? wondering because the guide you recommended shows a wire going there and some other guides do not show a connection there.

[ynot-try]

but check the other wires for the correct voltages before throwing the 12volts on

[volki]

what should the voltages be for each wire?

[skinerd]

Skinerd..thanks for your help and patience, first time for me working on a 508. will search on the OJ1 connection and try that. the 12V connection appears to be good, wired to the 12V spot on the power supply board, will check it with a multimeter to be sure.

also, just curious, what is the purpose of hooking up "Wire A" near the R331 resistor? wondering because the guide you recommended shows a wire going there and some other guides do not show a connection there.

On that giude, once the trace is cut between the chips, there is no power supplied to the chip, so it is poicked up near R331, don't know why there, but it works.

The point near r331 is 3.3v(wire A), and tieing that to the wire from the point below(wire B) supplies 3.3v to B all the time and to C when the switch is normal, then the switch supplies 12v to C in vid mod mode.
If you don't cut the trace between the chips, then you tie 12v to 3.3v.

When all traces are cut, the volts should be as follows, approx,
A...3.3v
B...0v
C...1.6v

[volki]

i gotta thank you guys for your help and vast knowledge. you guys know your shit!

i jtagged the receiver again and can read the tsops with no problem. tried changing Flash 2 line 7FFFFFAC to 0000 from D500, but again got that "FLASH OPERATION COMPLETE, INCORRECT DATA SENT" message. so instead of getting pissed off, i decided to recheck all my soldering points, and found that the two bottom wires (wires A & B) came loose.

i read in someone's guide about hot glueing your connections once they have been done to prevent them from coming loose, is this a recommended practice? seems that it would work, but want to ask the experts first!

[skinerd]

i gotta thank you guys for your help and vast knowledge. you guys know your shit!

i jtagged the receiver again and can read the tsops with no problem. tried changing Flash 2 line 7FFFFFAC to 0000 from D500, but again got that "FLASH OPERATION COMPLETE, INCORRECT DATA SENT" message. so instead of getting pissed off, i decided to recheck all my soldering points, and found that the two bottom wires (wires A & B) came loose.

i read in someone's guide about hot glueing your connections once they have been done to prevent them from coming loose, is this a recommended practice? seems that it would work, but want to ask the experts first!


Use 30 ga wire and good soldering technique and they will stay where you put them.

[ynot-try]

when checking the voltages on one of mine i noticed C was 0 volts then noticed OJ1 was jumpered removed the jumper and had 1.7 volts so does this mean with OJ1 jumpered both a+b will be 0 volts? also noticed i do not need the OJ1 to read but i do get error at writing back when i reach 20% mark both with it jumpered and not so it this a fault or is this correct that A+B should be grounded?

[ynot-try]

hang on rechecking that if C is center and making the switch puts 12v to 1.2 volts is that right?

[skinerd]

NO, C should be 0v unconnected. With both traces cut, that goes only to pin 12 of flash 2.
A 3.3v and B at 1.2v. A & B tie togetther and will be 3.3 on the switch.
C will be either 3.3v when switched normal or 12 v when the vid mod is on.

[ynot-try]

On that giude, once the trace is cut between the chips, there is no power supplied to the chip, so it is poicked up near R331, don't know why there, but it works.

The point near r331 is 3.3v(wire A), and tieing that to the wire from the point below(wire B) supplies 3.3v to B all the time and to C when the switch is normal, then the switch supplies 12v to C in vid mod mode.
If you don't cut the trace between the chips, then you tie 12v to 3.3v.

When all traces are cut, the volts should be as follows, approx,
A...3.3v
B...0v
C...1.6v


NO, C should be 0v unconnected. With both traces cut, that goes only to pin 12 of flash 2.
A 3.3v and B at 1.2v. A & B tie togetther and will be 3.3 on the switch.
C will be either 3.3v when switched normal or 12 v when the vid mod is on.





is the second the true statement? C= center of switch = 0volts when wires cut?

[ynot-try]

try this out tell me what you think rececked voltages again i was getting

A= 3.2vdc B=2.4vdc C=1.7vdc but when i touched the frame they went to A= 3.2v B=1.7v C=0v i checked the ground all ok any ideas?

[ynot-try]

hmm i think i found it need to get this house checked for wiring faults not sure if there is a ground as i get 59vac from either side of the sockets to ground when i know it should be 110 one side and 0 the other

[skinerd]

try this out tell me what you think rececked voltages again i was getting

A= 3.2vdc B=2.4vdc C=1.7vdc but when i touched the frame they went to A= 3.2v B=1.7v C=0v i checked the ground all ok any ideas?


Touched the frame with what?

I would not be concerned with the house ground as far as the receiver goes, some don't even have a ground wire attached, and they work fine.
When working on a receiver, ground is really just referencing the case, and the side of the power supply that is common with the case, as the ground point or reference.
The second set of numbers you have listed looks right.

[ynot-try]

touched the frame with my hand meaning i became the ground, i was checking with one lead of meter to frame other to connections, and was getting the higher reading, but when i had my hand on the case the reading dropped. to the correct range.

[noguffay]

touched the frame with my hand meaning i became the ground, i was checking with one lead of meter to frame other to connections, and was getting the higher reading, but when i had my hand on the case the reading dropped. to the correct range.




Yeh I got the same levels: aprox

a=3.44
b=2.46
c=1.60

When not grounding my hand to the case. I never get c=0

Should we be using the OJ1 jumper?

[noguffay]

And where the hell is it for the 508

[noguffay]

I was getting better resault with the a b method but could not flash. To late now! Should have I tried the oj1 jumper or can I still?

[skinerd]

Yeh I got the same levels: aprox

a=3.44
b=2.46
c=1.60

When not grounding my hand to the case. I never get c=0

Should we be using the OJ1 jumper?

Sure the trace is cut between the flash chips?

I always use the OJ1 jumper, wired to a second pole on the vidmod switch, so when I switch to vid mod, I switch OJ1 toghther.

[volki]

ok, i rechecked my connections and tried the vidmod. jtagged the unit with no problem and changed FLASH 2, LINE 7FFFFFAC from D500 to 0000. double checked that location to make sure the change stuck, and sure enough it's now at 0000. i turn the vidmod off and close jkeys. i connect my receiver but it does not power on. again, i have no problems jtagging, all correct info shows up and the vidmod was completed.

any suggestions?

[noguffay]

ok, i rechecked my connections and tried the vidmod. jtagged the unit with no problem and changed FLASH 2, LINE 7FFFFFAC from D500 to 0000. double checked that location to make sure the change stuck, and sure enough it's now at 0000. i turn the vidmod off and close jkeys. i connect my receiver but it does not power on. again, i have no problems jtagging, all correct info shows up and the vidmod was completed.

any suggestions?

Oh great it sound like I got a long way to go to. I still haven't got the vid mod done right yet and my 508 won't power up either. Did you use the OJ1 jumper and if you did where is it? Got a pic?

[volki]

yeah, i did the OJ1 jumper, connected it to the bottom row of my swith so when my vidmod is turned on OJ1 is jumped. i got the vidmod to work, was able to change D500 to 0000 on FLASH 2, line 7FFFFFAC.

if you look in the middle of the main pc board you will see OJ1 near a chrome capacitor/resistor, just look real good and you will find it.

now my receiver won't power on, need some suggestions to solve this.

[noguffay]

I must confess. I've also done a TSOP lock mod and I suspect this may be contributing to my troubles. I've got it in "Unlocked" but if I've done something wrong ie. wiring or trace cut its probably causing problems. Would the TSOP lock contribute to a problem with the Vid mod, if it was done correctly?

[noguffay]

Is it the two pads with the silk screen "R1" beside it?

[volki]

i believe so, not looking at my 508 right now, but the spot has a line going from the two pads to "OJ1"

[noguffay]

Did it ever power up before? Mine never has powered up since I got it, but a buddy of mine said this is not uncomman when a unit has been ECM'd. I've been told that if this is the only cause of the no power case it will power up if properly hacked

[noguffay]

Right, I see that now Thanks. I'll keep the thread posted with my resault as I progress.

[skinerd]

yeah, i did the OJ1 jumper, connected it to the bottom row of my swith so when my vidmod is turned on OJ1 is jumped. i got the vidmod to work, was able to change D500 to 0000 on FLASH 2, line 7FFFFFAC.

if you look in the middle of the main pc board you will see OJ1 near a chrome capacitor/resistor, just look real good and you will find it.

now my receiver won't power on, need some suggestions to solve this.

Sure you have a good flash file written? The flash may have become corrupted.
Also, when the vid mod switch is set to normal, OJ1 is open? The center leg of the switch is 3.3v?

[noguffay]

With OJ1 wires not connected I get 1.7vdc from one and 0.0vdc from the other (lets call them pads 1 and 2 respectively). Which one do I connect to the center leg. Also there seems to be capacitance/resistance between point c and pad 2 of OJ1. If I connect point c and pad 2-OJ1 together I get a resistive value that "climbs" to 215.2 ohms aprox. Is this right?

[volki]

yes, when the vidmod switch is set to normal (A,B,C wires connected together) the OJ1 jumper is set to open. when the vidmod is on (12V to wire C) OJ1 is jumped to each other. does it matter which OJ1 wire goes where? i don't think it does, since all it does when the vidmod is on is jump itself.

also, how do i find out if a flash is corrupted? what are the symptoms of a corrupted flash? and yes, i do get 3.3V to wires A,B,C when in normal mode (vidmod turned off).

again, i thank you guys for your input and hope you can help me resolve this problem...i need my PVR!

[ynot-try]

i need one of my pvr's too just one that i can write flashes too isnt gettin more than 20% of the flash before it gets an error no matter where i get the flash from

[volki]

my unit was working fine prior to me doing the vidmod. i successfully did the vidmod and changed Flash 2 to accept the blue card. after doing this the unit will not turn on.

[noguffay]

wow sorry. I 'm wrong about which wires I was connecting together. With no power connected attached my DVM to the wire from 12vdc supply and pad 2-OJ1 (0.0vdc) and got 215 ohms aprox. This is probably all irrelavent, something to do with the power supply behavour

[ynot-try]

Oj1 is jumpered to itself no other wired if you notice on the pad there are 2 pad you need to connect them together only not to A B C or 12v

[noguffay]

my unit was working fine prior to me doing the vidmod. i successfully did the vidmod and changed Flash 2 to accept the blue card. after doing this the unit will not turn on.

I think this reinforces the info I got about an ECM causing a "no power" scenario. I.e. an ECM causes the TSOPs to be corrupted just like what you may have inadvertently done. Sorry I'm not up on my knowledge of what to look for in terms of TSOP flashing problems.

My PVR Jtaging seems to give intermittent results. Sometimes I get to read the box keys and some times not. I've yet to been able to get into the flash programming. I keep getting errors reading the flash.

[noguffay]

Oj1 is jumpered to itself no other wired if you notice on the pad there are 2 pad you need to connect them together only not to A B C or 12v

Yes you're right, Its just that I was getting a resistive value between pad 2- OJ1 and the 12vdc supply wire. It made me hesitate for a while. What would this be?

Does length of wire bare any influance on the outcome of the JTaging procedure. I'm getting intermittant results with JKeys. Sometimes I can detect the IRD and sometimes not. It seems like it also might have to do with the sequence in which I connect and turn on power. Though I never put power to the IRD before connecting the JTag.

[skinerd]

With OJ1 wires not connected I get 1.7vdc from one and 0.0vdc from the other (lets call them pads 1 and 2 respectively). Which one do I connect to the center leg. Also there seems to be capacitance/resistance between point c and pad 2 of OJ1. If I connect point c and pad 2-OJ1 together I get a resistive value that "climbs" to 215.2 ohms aprox. Is this right?


From the guide I posted, A & B go to one side of the switch, C to the center and 12v to the other side.
With the switch set to vid mod, and the 12v unconnected and OJ1 jumpered, the center should be 0v, the AB connection side 3.3v.
Then when the switch is switched to vid mod off, the 0v (C) and 3.3v (AB) are connected for normal operation, switch the vid mod on(after connecting the 12v) and 12v is applied to the C wire, which goes to pin 12 of the flash chip.
I have done 4 510's, 1 508 and 1 501 using this very method, worked everytime.

[noguffay]

I seem so close. I've got the right wire connected. ABC connected and OJ1 open in normal mode. C and 12vdc connected and OJ1 jumped in Vidmod mode. If I connect power to my PVR and wait too long before detecting with JKeys, it will not be detected. If I get detection of box keys, I then go to Flash programming and switch to Flash2 and hit flash key (even within 3 secs) I get:

The Flash codes returned are not recognized by JKEYS Mfg/Device codes returned are FFFF/FFFF(JEDEC) and FFFF/FFFF (Flash File)

[noguffay]

I wonder if I should remove the TSOP lock (it has been set to unlocked) and reconnect the trace cut? I'm suspicious that it is this, that is causing the problem.

[skinerd]

I wonder if I should remove the TSOP lock (it has been set to unlocked) and reconnect the trace cut? I'm suspicious that it is this, that is causing the problem.


It shouldn't unless it's a bad lock or incorrectly installed.
It is better to get the receiver working with the vid mod, and then install the lock, you tackle one problem at a time.

[noguffay]

OK Removed the TSOP lock and to my dismay no difference. Is it possible the TSOPS are irreversibly locked? Even with the Vid mod active it says it can not recognize the flash codes

[skinerd]

OK Removed the TSOP lock and to my dismay no difference. Is it possible the TSOPS are irreversibly locked? Even with the Vid mod active it says it can not recognize the flash codes

Not nescessarily, you may have a bad connection somewhere. You should see some of the botched soldering jobs I have repaired, or tried to repair.....not saying you can't solder, it's just the places to solder to are extremely small and delicate.

[volki]

i have triple checked my connections....all seem to be good. i have no problem jtagging the receiver and reading both tsops. have changed D500 to 0000, but receiver doesn't power on using the vidmod method you described. the receiver worked fine before i installed the vidmod.

[noguffay]

i have triple checked my connections....all seem to be good. i have no problem jtagging the receiver and reading both tsops. have changed D500 to 0000, but receiver doesn't power on using the vidmod method you described. the receiver worked fine before i installed the vidmod.

I vaugely recollect that you may have to hex edit or flash with a different image. Does anybody out there know about this?

By the way my Build Cgf is TC3A, Boot Strap is 22QB, Software is P199. Would this contribute to my problem?

[noguffay]

Also I'm using a Buffered JTag. Is there any known problems with compatibility with the 508. What about JKeys Ver#?

[skinerd]

I vaugely recollect that you may have to hex edit or flash with a different image. Does anybody out there know about this?

By the way my Build Cgf is TC3A, Boot Strap is 22QB, Software is P199. Would this contribute to my problem?

You would need to flash with a virgin image if you needed to marry the hard drive.

Your build is prolly DC3A not TC3A abd the bootstrap is prolly 22AB not 22QB.

[skinerd]

Also I'm using a Buffered JTag. Is there any known problems with compatibility with the 508. What about JKeys Ver#?


If you can read and edit the tsop, then jkeys and jtag are fine.

[noguffay]

If you can read and edit the tsop, then jkeys and jtag are fine.

Thats my point. I can't read and edit the TSOPS, only detect the device.

By the way my Build Cgf is TC3A, Boot Strap is 22QB, Software is P199 and Model is 10S. Would this contribute to my problem? This is from JKeys detectioin window. Are you saying that JKeys may be giving false info? I get all the info about the device but can't do anything with it.

[noguffay]

Is it because of this Build cfg and boot strap etc.... that that is why the TSOP read reports back with....."The Flash codes returned are not recognized by JKEYS Mfg/Device codes returned are FFFF/FFFF(JEDEC) and FFFF/FFFF (Flash File)"

[volki]

any suggestions on the no power problem? seems my post has others asking questions not exactly related to my question.

[noguffay]

any suggestions on the no power problem? seems my post has others asking questions not exactly related to my question.

Have you checked all your voltages out of your power supply?

Maybe you should start a new thread. Call it: My 508 won't power up Help

So when you say it won't power up you mean the LED on the front of the unit won't come on, or do you mean there is no sound from the HD no fan on, and no voltage out of the unit? If its the latter then you got hardware problems and if you're not an electronics tech you'd better find one. If its the first then its a software problem and there must be some way to crack it.

You say you got it flashed? are you using a Magic card? Have you tried hooking it all up with the dish and TV? Do you have an existing dishnet dish hooked up and known to work?

[skinerd]

Thats my point. I can't read and edit the TSOPS, only detect the device.

By the way my Build Cgf is TC3A, Boot Strap is 22QB, Software is P199 and Model is 10S. Would this contribute to my problem? This is from JKeys detectioin window. Are you saying that JKeys may be giving false info? I get all the info about the device but can't do anything with it.

Look at the little tag on the board, if it says TC3D then believe what jkeys tells you, if it says DC3D then you have a problem with jkeys. I'll bet it says DC3D, which would mean a DC3D eeprom and a DC3A tsop.

[skinerd]

any suggestions on the no power problem? seems my post has others asking questions not exactly related to my question.

Just too many possibilities, the 501/508/510 is not a beginners model, if you are certain you have done everything correctly and it still don't work, chances are that you have not done something right. What ? I don't know, like I said just too many possibilities.

[noguffay]

Shure it is, I'm guna crack this beeotch.

I'll check the the little tag Thanks. If it does say DC3D but my JKeys says TC3D what then? What version of JKeys are you using. Ha it does say DC3D! what now? This could be the cause of all my troubles!

[skinerd]

If jkeys reports it a a TCED, then jkeys isn't reading it right...I use the 310-508 version of jkeys. ANy way jkeys should always report the tsop as a xxxA, the eeprom will contain the last letter, usually xxxD, but it should jive with the sticker on the board, unless you have flashed it differently..

[noguffay]

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh maybe the guy I bought it from flashed it different? What if? Where can I find that exact version?

[skinerd]

http://www.dssftp.com/filedownload/generate_php/echostar_tsop_bank.php

there are several.

[noguffay]

http://www.dssftp.com/filedownload/generate_php/echostar_tsop_bank.php

there are several.


Sorry, Where can I find the Exact JKeys Ver you are using? 2.X.X.X.?

[skinerd]

http://www.dssftp.com/filedownload/generate_php/echostar__files.php

#231 on the list right now.
A 508 or 510 will detect as a 501 with incorrect data, simply pull down the selection to 508 for either of these receivers and all is good.

[noguffay]

http://www.dssftp.com/filedownload/generate_php/echostar__files.php

#231 on the list right now.
A 508 or 510 will detect as a 501 with incorrect data, simply pull down the selection to 508 for either of these receivers and all is good.


Thanks. Though it is the same one I've been using. Should I just load a new TSOP bin file? Would this do anything for my continuously getting a flash error?

[skinerd]

Thanks. Though it is the same one I've been using. Should I just load a new TSOP bin file? Would this do anything for my continuously getting a flash error?
Try another flash file, all you need to write is flash 2, I hope you knew that. Erase flash 2 first, then flash 1 then only write flash 2 and a virgin eeprom file generated with flashedit.

[noguffay]

What the hell am I taking about. The whole trouble I'm having is that I can't flash or errase. All as I can do is detect. The fact that it says TC3A instead of DC3A as written on the the sticker maybe says it NOT even detecting correctly. What if it is detecting correctly? Would the conflicting info indicate that this unit must have been reflashed at some point in its life?

could it actually be that JKeys can't recognize the code ie. ....."The Flash codes returned are not recognized by JKEYS Mfg/Device codes returned are FFFF/FFFF(JEDEC) and FFFF/FFFF (Flash File)"

[skinerd]

What the hell am I taking about. The whole trouble I'm having is that I can't flash or errase. All as I can do is detect. The fact that it says TC3A instead of DC3A as written on the the sticker maybe says it NOT even detecting correctly. What if it is detecting correctly? Would the conflicting info indicate that this unit must have been reflashed at some point in its life?

could it actually be that JKeys can't recognize the code ie. ....."The Flash codes returned are not recognized by JKEYS Mfg/Device codes returned are FFFF/FFFF(JEDEC) and FFFF/FFFF (Flash File)"


Have you tried editing the jkeys def file so it will accept FFFF as a valid flash type?

[noguffay]

How the hell do you do that?

[noguffay]

any suggestions on the no power problem? seems my post has others asking questions not exactly related to my question.


OK dude. Hope this works for you. Go get the how to download from: http://www.dssftp.com/filedownload/generate_php/echostar__files.php

#153. 2003-12-02 03:38:00 crash course jkeys and flash edit.exe

In the help html file it is explained about the no power situation. After hooking everything up ie receiver, tv and dish you might have to wait a few minutes (up to 30) before your unit will power up. I guess its looking for a data stream from the network?

[skinerd]

How the hell do you do that?

Find all cases of 0x2250 in the def file and change it to 0xFFFF, that will get you in, then edit it back once you have erased both flashes and wrote back flash 2.
Really don't need to get them all, but easier to explain and won't harm anything.

[eddiemiller]

Skinerd , You are absolutely impressive with your tech skills, How long u been "messing" with electro's ? Now if u could just figure out how to e-mail a Beer , I'd send you one , Kudos , Oh by the way I'm heding your advice and waiting to Get my lock to install , before I di the Vid mod ( I'm gonna go ahead and do it , so ican have control of my flash , incase something should arise that I need to erase and write to them ( Would won't something to happen and not have it ready to flash too) Thank's bro

[noguffay]

Where can I find Flash Edit 2?

[skinerd]

Where can I find Flash Edit 2?

http://www.dssftp.com/filedownload/generate_php/echostar__files.php

#16 on the list right now.

Aren't you familiar with the downloads section, or how to search in it? Need to get familiar with it, a lot of very useful stuff there.

[noguffay]

Familiar but not with where everything is and how to search. I typed in Flash Edit but couldn't find it

Thanks again

[skinerd]

Familiar but not with where everything is and how to search. I typed in Flash Edit but couldn't find it

Thanks again


I use windows internet explorer search to find things on a page, it's under Edit, Find on this page, the typed in flashedit, went right to it.

[noguffay]

Yeh you're right, I know. It’s just a little unfamiliar where certain files types are on the site

I digress.......... So what tool do I use to edit the def file right to (on) the IRD so that it will let me in?

[ynot-try]

notepad opens the def file so you can edit

[noguffay]

"Find all cases of 0x2250 in the def file and change it to 0xFFFF, that will get you in."

If I can't get in, how can I edit the def file? How can I change the def file on the TSOPs, to allow me to errase, edit or whatnot the Flash2. I've managed to save a bin file using JKeys ie save mem... Is this the def file?. I've also managed to save an Eprom file. What its not allowing me to do is Flash program ie. The Flash codes returned are not recognized by JKEYS Mfg/Device codes returned are FFFF/FFFF(JEDEC) and FFFF/FFFF (Flash File)

I'm wondering if the length of com wire ie. from the JTag pads to the Com port of the computer are having any baring on my inability ot flash but allowing me, at the same time, to see the IRD info.

I've also used a top mount connection to the JTag pads. Could I be getting electrical interfereance from the com wire being in proximmity to the power supply?

[skinerd]

The jkeys def file is jkeys.def and found in the jkeys folder (directory).

[noguffay]

Ah so your saying edit the "JKeys def file" in order to try and get into the IRD with flash programming? How does this work? and what made you suggest this route?

Thanks for the clarification. I appreciate all your patiants.

[noguffay]

Well tried it, didn't work, I'll go back to the drawing board and undo everything I've done and start over. This time I'll reinstall the JTag with much shorter leads.

[skinerd]

Ah so your saying edit the "JKeys def file" in order to try and get into the IRD with flash programming? How does this work? and what made you suggest this route?

Thanks for the clarification. I appreciate all your patiants.

Jkeys interpets the info read from the identifier response from the flash chip. Sometimes that info is flawed, for whatever reason, a blank flash chip can cause it.

By telling jkeys that a different response is a correct response, jkeys is duped into letting that bad response identify the flash. It does work, if there is no other problem.

Jkeys needs to know what chip it is working with in order to send the data in the correct order to successfully work with that particular chip.

I have used this method and have instructed others in it's use and they also have has success.

No, it doesn't always work, if there are other factors, or if jkeys gets no response from the flash chip, it prolly isn't going to let you in.

[speed]

Well tried it, didn't work, I'll go back to the drawing board and undo everything I've done and start over. This time I'll reinstall the JTag with much shorter leads.

Did you build a simple Jtag? If so, double, triple check the connections and that the resistors are all 100 Ohm. Let me repeat, 100 Ohm! (Not 100K)

Now to answer the first question in the post, I have modified 2 5XX's with No R331 and did not cut the top trace. It doesn't need it and is only more work and since the traces are close together you could end up cutting more than you want.

Here is the link to Gunthers post on the no R331 and I checked it out (Using meter) with his write up and he is correct.

Good luck.

Remeber double and triple check and use a meter.
http://www.dssftp.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?t=20140&highlight=r331

[skinerd]

Did you build a simple Jtag? If so, double, triple check the connections and that the resistors are all 100 Ohm. Let me repeat, 100 Ohm! (Not 100K)

Now to answer the first question in the post, I have modified 2 5XX's with No R331 and did not cut the top trace. It doesn't need it and is only more work and since the traces are close together you could end up cutting more than you want.

Here is the link to Gunthers post on the no R331 and I checked it out (Using meter) with his write up and he is correct.

Good luck.

Remeber double and triple check and use a meter.
http://www.dssftp.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?t=20140&highlight=r331

I didn't cut the top trace on one and smoked the power supply. It could have had a weak component, but it smoked. If you check, with the top trace not cut, you are applying 12v to a 3.3v circuit, live with 3.3v, it's a low power 3.3v I assume, as I never traced it back, prolly through a resistor to limit the current, but I don't know. I got the power supply fixed ok, a zener and a voltage regulator were fried.

I will never do another 510 without cutting the top trace, it works with that trace cut and I never smoked anything doing it that way.

[noguffay]

I never built the JTag (its a bought Buffered JTag) but I thought I'd get fancy and put a 9 pin din con in the back of the receiver (For conveneance), so I did a top board JTag with about 12" of ribbon cable inside the receiver to the din con. Add that to another 12" of JTag cable and a 72" of parallel cable and maybe there's to much cable for a good signal! What do you think? So I'm going to shorten up every thing tight and double check my top mount JTag. Could someone give me a double check on the correct top mount JTag for the 508?

[jodgr8one]

From the guide I posted, A & B go to one side of the switch, C to the center and 12v to the other side.
With the switch set to vid mod, and the 12v unconnected and OJ1 jumpered, the center should be 0v, the AB connection side 3.3v.
Then when the switch is switched to vid mod off, the 0v (C) and 3.3v (AB) are connected for normal operation, switch the vid mod on(after connecting the 12v) and 12v is applied to the C wire, which goes to pin 12 of the flash chip.
I have done 4 510's, 1 508 and 1 501 using this very method, worked everytime.


skinerd

Hello. would you happen to know if this vid mod can revive a 508 that wont boot up after doing and flashing with "The one with only wires A and B" vid mod?? Keeping my fingers crossed but my 508 wont boot no more, I hear fan spinning and the HD. No lights comes on at all then plugged in. Is it a goner?

[skinerd]

skinerd

Hello. would you happen to know if this vid mod can revive a 508 that wont boot up after doing and flashing with "The one with only wires A and B" vid mod?? Keeping my fingers crossed but my 508 wont boot no more, I hear fan spinning and the HD. No lights comes on at all then plugged in. Is it a goner?

Leave it plugged in a few minutes, if the CPU or flash chips get very hot, they are done.

[jodgr8one]

skinerd,

Thanx for the reply.

I am currently doing the 4 wire mod now. What else can I loose?
I have done stream update the ird overnight, with virgin and with orginal flashes. STill no go. I still can able to touch CPU(a little warm) with the back of my palms. ggrrrrrrrr. I hate to loose this IRD with just tsop issues.
this thread is a real good info on doing this mod.

Thanx again and will post any outcome. Wish me luck

[skinerd]

skinerd,

Thanx for the reply.

I am currently doing the 4 wire mod now. What else can I loose?
I have done stream update the ird overnight, with virgin and with orginal flashes. STill no go. I still can able to touch CPU(a little warm) with the back of my palms. ggrrrrrrrr. I hate to loose this IRD with just tsop issues.
this thread is a real good info on doing this mod.

Thanx again and will post any outcome. Wish me luck

It still jtags ok?

[skinerd]

I never built the JTag (its a bought Buffered JTag) but I thought I'd get fancy and put a 9 pin din con in the back of the receiver (For conveneance), so I did a top board JTag with about 12" of ribbon cable inside the receiver to the din con. Add that to another 12" of JTag cable and a 72" of parallel cable and maybe there's to much cable for a good signal! What do you think? So I'm going to shorten up every thing tight and double check my top mount JTag. Could someone give me a double check on the correct top mount JTag for the 508?

LPT 2 to 9
LPT 3 to 11
LPT 4 to 13
LPT 13 to 15
LPT 5 to 19
I use 20 for jtag ground.

[jodgr8one]

It still jtags ok?


Prior doing the 4wire vid mod was tagging ok, read, write's with no problems.
I have tried stream update last night with a virgin flash from my original save tsop images on flash 2 only, no go there. I even notice that on this mod, HD not spining and fan off. Will double check again tonight.
I am going to try see if I can load the original flashes tonight.
thanks