Rom 3 for 301 13

[palguy]

I have been using a rom 3 and a 3900 for some time with no problems. I recently obtained a 301 and have had the vid mod applied and wish to use a rom 3 with it. The problem I have is I program the card with the exact same set of tiers and blocker as the 3900, changing just the receiver specific information (ird # and box keys) and all I receive is the info channels (101 and adult lock) and some of the music channels along with bloomburg information. Any direction as to what I am doing wrong would be appreciated.

[t160hq]

Sounds like the receiver needs a firmware upgrade.

Push the sys info button on the remote.

Current firmware is X203

If it says something like P200 or something similar.

Tune channel 101 in.
Turn off receiver.
Wait
It will turn itself on and download the latest firmware. When it's done turn it back on and watch tv.

t160hq

[palguy]

I checked the current software and it appears to be PO55dada-N. I turned the receiver off and let it sit, it never did turn itself back on so I did but it never took the update. How long does it generally take to update? Also, let me add that there are switches on the receiver that were installed that lock the tsop and the eeprom. I left the tsop unlocked to take the update but not the eeprom. What should be the position of these locks and should I reset the tsop with the fix button also installed on the receiver?

[t160hq]

P055 is virgin firmware. By virgin that means that is the firmware that the receiver comes with when brand new from the factory. And I can confirm that is the problem at this point.

Yes you will have to unlock the TSOP and eeprom locks to receive the new firmware.

Depending on what type of locks are installed you might not be able to relock after a firmware upgrade. I would have to know what specfic lock you have before I could tell you one way or the other.

From what you observed I would say you have a old and outdated locking system. One for the TSOP and a seperate lock for the eeprom. That type of lock has been compromised by Charlie and no longer works. You will get a serious error nag with the locks on. Especially after updating to the latest firmware. I would consider investing in a AR105c lock.

Both locks need to be off for the update in your case.

Updates can take from 10 to 30 minutes. At a virgin firmware like yours indications of updating may or may not occur. (power light or messages showing on the tv).

The reset button on your receiver depends on what it does. If it just resets the receiver it works the same as a reset on a computer. Boots it up from scratch. May or may not help. Need to know how it's wired in to tell you more.

At this point the best advice I can give is:
Unlock the receiver both eeprom and tsop
Turn off receiver tuned to channel 101
Wait for the update to occur.
Then try it out.

Having said that the lock if not working or improperly installed may prevent any update from working. In that case the lock will have to be removed to allow the update. That will require pulling the cover and doing some soldering and replacing a resistor on the main Printed Circuit board.

t160hq

[palguy]

Thanks, I have done as you have suggested. The reset does just as you said, resets the receiver and it begins playing very shortly after being reset. The receiver is a new out of the box remanufactured 301 and the mods were just made to the receiver less than a week ago, along with extracting the ird # and the boxkeys, at the suggestion of a friend who said it would protect the receiver from being ecm'd, so I am assuming it is a recent version of necessary modifications. I had the video mod done as well in order to use a rom3. There is also a switch for the vid mod although I am not sure why. I will check back on it in a couple of hours to see if the update has been taken and in the meantime I will continue to try and contact the fellow who made the mods and see if he actually knows what he is doing, apparantly he has done several of these and his work was extremely neat. I will post on the results and thank you so much for your guidance.

[t160hq]

That helps. vid mod switch stays off for any updating. It is only turned on in the case of jtaging the unit to write the locked sector of the tsop. In all! other cases it is always off. Unexpected results could occur if it's on. Say in the case of a stream update of the TSOP. What we are trying to do now.

t160hq

[palguy]

The vid mod switch was in the "normal" position when the receiver was given back to me and that was where I was told to leave it so I am assuming that would be the normal position it would be in to take the update. I had switched it to the down position but have now set it to what is marked "normal" and the tsop and eeprom switches are in the unlocked positions. Receiver has the programmed rom 3 card in the slot, was tuned to channel 101 and then turned off. Let's see what happens. Again, can't thank you enough.

[palguy]

Left in that position all night with no success. Is there any way I can force an update? Or what would you suggest I try next?

[t160hq]

Yes you can force a update but you need a jtag and jkeys to do it.

You force a update by erasing a sector of the tsop. Then hook it up it will update no matter what.

In a 301.013 4M model the sector is SA49

In a 301-013 2 chip the sector is SA15 (in flash 2)

I still think you might have a issue with the TSOP lock though. Either hooked up wrong or some designs just don't allow a update even when unlocked. Especially on newer models like the 301. The IC used to lock it may just not be fast or accurate enough to properly allow the flash. Or it could use the wrong voltage like 5 volts instead of 3.3 volts. If it is a 5 volt ic used in the lock it will be putting too much voltage to the tsop and give you problems with updates. It may also damage the tsop when used for long periods.

Another problem might be using 3.3 volts on a 5 volt lock ic. This seniro will not damage the tsop but the lock ic will not function properly at 3.3 volts. It will protect the tsop from a hit. It will do this with the switch in the on or off position in most cases.

t160hq

[palguy]

I was able to reset the receiver and after doing a check switch I get the screen where it says my system will now begin to take vital updates. The screen says don't unplug or disturb while this is taking place. It first reads acquiring signal and then searching for information. At this point the green status bar goes to approx. 60% to 70% across the bar and it goes back to acquiring signal then to searching for information, again and continues to repeat this process. It has been doing so for about 30 min.

[palguy]

After about 2 hrs. I unplugged the receiver although it said not to. I then powered it back up and did a check switch and checked current firmware, still the same. I then turned the receiver off and came back later. When I turned it on it came up to the signal strength screen and showed a good signal on both 119 and 110. Still no update though. I will power back down and continue to wait. I still get the offer to download information every time I cancel out of the signal check mode though. Thanks again for your help and I will continue to try and figure this out. It is frustrating but I'm sure it is going to be rewarding when I finally whip this.

[t160hq]

That is what you want it to do. It's trying to update.

Only one other thing I can think of that might be wrong. When you finish the check switch check the signal level. You need at least 75 % (100% or more is better) signal strength on 119 to take a update. And it needs at least 75%on both 119 and 110 for the check switch to work properly.

After a check switch it should show a screen saying (If the dish is new as well) DP Twin. And show a box with
119 110
ALL ALL

If all that is ok it has to be the lock and will have to be removed.

t160hq

[palguy]

The dish is a superdish. The box displays - Switch: DP34 LNB's Sgl(1) Sgl(2) N.C.(3).
It does show 110 and 119 in a box below with all and all and says satellite signal verified. The amount of signal I am receiving on 119 is 120% and on 110 114%. If I need to remove the lock at this point should I remove both for tsop and eeprom or just tsop, also how would I go about removing them? I have no problem going inside and soldering. And I assure you I will do all my own mods in the future, didn't want to take the time and effort to do this myself and am now paying the price. If I must I will get another receiver and go it again from the begining on my own. Again thanks for the guidance.

[t160hq]

Leave the eeprom lock installed just turn it off. To remove the TSOP lock only two wires actually need to be disconnected and replaced with a 33 ohm resistor. The other connections can be left in place. Once the resistor is replaced they should have no affect on the TSOP.

See attached photo. It's the one marked REMOVE 330OHM. Board locatation is R110.

It's damn hard to reattach the resistor to orginal connections for it. So I recommend using the pads marked WE#0 and WE#1.

t160hq

[palguy]

Let me make sure I understand this correctly. The two wires I need to disconnect are the ones soldered to we#0 and we#1? And I should bridge (connect) these same two pads with a 3300 ohm resistor?

[t160hq]

we#0 and we#1 are the generally accepted standard solder point for the wires from the lock. The guy who installed might not have used those specfic points. But they will be soldered somewhere along the foil path for those points. He may have used the connections at R110 instead.

Yes you connect those two pads with a resistor. The resistor is 33 ohm not 3300.

t160hq

[palguy]

I meant a 33 ohm resistor. The colors (stripes on resistor) of which are orange orange black if I am correct.

[t160hq]

Yep. For a easy way to remember color codes. My uncle taught me this one. He was in the navy doing electronics work.

Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls, But Virgins Give Willingly

black brown red orange yellow green blue violet grey white
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

t160hq

[palguy]

I made the necessary changes as described in your last post and set everything back up, did a switch check and waited while it cycled through downloading vital information, but just the same as before. Searching for signal searching for information, green bar to 60 or 70 %, and back to acqiring signal and so on. Still have 120% on 119 and 114% on 110. We#0 and We#1 were exactly where the wires were soldered and I just cut the wires and soldered the resistor between them.

[palguy]

Neat trick on the color codes also. That should be an easy one to remember.

[palguy]

Just as a sidebar I do have the receiver set up to take updates automatically (without my permission).

[Ki'Ki']

What blocker are you using on your card? You need ckecksum with the 301's. The no-be won't work.

[palguy]

I am using checksum for sure.

[t160hq]

That's the last of the stream update ideas. Only one course is left. You will have to get a jtag and jkeys and do it manually. Either by the sector erase method or flashing a image that's already updated.

t160hq

[palguy]

That's what I was afraid of. Oh well look at the opportunity I have to learn now. I'm sure once I get a jtag I will be back with you asking more. Pins have already been soldered to the tsop on the top of the board so I will need to figure out how to interface them. Thanks again for all the support. I'll be Back. I'm not the sort who gives up before I get results.

[palguy]

OK, I'm back now. Got hold of a top side jtag reader and changed the firmware to P202 and am now enjoying the pleasures of satellite TV. It was a learning experience and much more rewarding doing it myself (with your help and guidance of course). Thanks again.

[t160hq]

Glad to hear you got it working palguy.

It's a great feeling when it all comes together and starts working for the first time.

t160hq