Conductive glue

[ghost71799]

Hey guys I know how fustrating it is when the soldering iron slips or you drop some solder on the board and fry all your money up in five minutes.

Lets face it some people have steady hands and some don't, well try doing a google search for conductive glue it is the answer to everyones problems.

Never burn your finger tips again or fry another IRD.

Happy testing and goodluck.

Ghost

[JT]

I'm not trying to shut you down or anything like that ghost, it's just that I have a little experience with the product of topic. New ideas on how to do this stuff are always welcome. I think in this case though, you aren't making that great of a suggestion. Here's why:

Conductive glue is not especially conductive and it hardens over time. In other words, as the 'glue' dries, it can create the equivelent of a cold solder joint; whether it be in 3 minutes or three years. Plus, conductive glue can not be reworked. Once it's set, you basically cant do anything with it. The connections that are made for a tsop lock, vid mod or any other modification to electronic equipment really should be made with real solder. Solder is in almost all aspects metal hot glue. If you can't work safely with the solder or solder braid to clean up any oops's, then you should hire skinerd or someone else to do the modifications for you.

The Cold Heat soldering iron is bunk too.

[ghost71799]

I'm not trying to shut you down or anything like that ghost, it's just that I have a little experience with the product of topic. New ideas on how to do this stuff are always welcome. I think in this case though, you aren't making that great of a suggestion. Here's why:

Conductive glue is not especially conductive and it hardens over time. In other words, as the 'glue' dries, it can create the equivelent of a cold solder joint; whether it be in 3 minutes or three years. Plus, conductive glue can not be reworked. Once it's set, you basically cant do anything with it. The connections that are made for a tsop lock, vid mod or any other modification to electronic equipment really should be made with real solder. Solder is in almost all aspects metal hot glue. If you can't work safely with the solder or solder braid to clean up any oops's, then you should hire skinerd or someone else to do the modifications for you.

The Cold Heat soldering iron is bunk too.

Hey JT

Just trying to help those who may be interested in trying something new.

I read where you can remove the glue with a soldering iron.

The drying time is a little ff'ed up.

Ghost

[JT]

Hey JT

Just trying to help those who may be interested in trying something new.

I read where you can remove the glue with a soldering iron.

The drying time is a little ff'ed up.

Ghost

I wasn't trying to discourage any effort to help others. It's clear that you mean to help. Thank you. :) That kind of effort is always appreciated. Please don't feel discouraged. I just happen to really dislike the product of topic. You can use a soldering iron to remove the gunk. It will stick to your iron and ruin your tip and necessitate a tip replacement or at least a vigerous cleaning. It's pretty nasty stuff IMO, is all I was trying to say.

[CRASHER]

I'm not trying to shut you down or anything like that ghost, it's just that I have a little experience with the product of topic. New ideas on how to do this stuff are always welcome. I think in this case though, you aren't making that great of a suggestion. Here's why:

Conductive glue is not especially conductive and it hardens over time. In other words, as the 'glue' dries, it can create the equivelent of a cold solder joint; whether it be in 3 minutes or three years. Plus, conductive glue can not be reworked. Once it's set, you basically cant do anything with it. The connections that are made for a tsop lock, vid mod or any other modification to electronic equipment really should be made with real solder. Solder is in almost all aspects metal hot glue. If you can't work safely with the solder or solder braid to clean up any oops's, then you should hire skinerd or someone else to do the modifications for you.

The Cold Heat soldering iron is bunk too.

SO TRUE

[BirdieMod]

I have only seen the conductive tracer pen, Not a glue. The stuff I've used is only good for low power logic type circuits as it cannot carry much current or burns up.

[ghost71799]

I have only seen the conductive tracer pen, Not a glue. The stuff I've used is only good for low power logic type circuits as it cannot carry much current or burns up.

I would post a link but I don't want to break the rules.

The glue is in there, there are two kinds, one is open for the public to buy and try and costs $39.99 plus shipping, the other, I guess after looking for a price and how to order is either for government personel only or for a business that wants a large order of product.

The second glue, however, seems to look to be more stable than the first, it uses a dispenser bottle that has a small hollow tube about two to three inches long to dispense the metallic substance.

Just a little note to add I am sure everyone here that reads knows that acetone will accelerate drying time in glue but will also damage/corrode circuit boards and is not used in these glues so it is safe to try the glues, they are recommended for the replacement of soldering irons and for people who want a different option.

I have never had any trouble soldering but I am going to try both of these products if I can get the second place to sell me a nickle or dime sample of their product.

Ghost

[smilingjack]

Copy & paste, people wanted to 'beef up' the contacts on the M/C without soldering. This stuff has been used to repair PC boards (along with a little super glue) for years by TV repairmen, Then they charge you for a new board.

QUOTE:
I just bought some silver epoxy that is used to repair circuit boards , The stuff is made by MG chemicals quote from the package "Forms a high strength conductive bonds. use in place of traditional solder. perfect for joining heat sensitive components.good for repairing defective traces and creating jumpers.Excellent for high frequency.emi/rfi sheilding applications "
I have used this before and see no problems re-tinning the magic card contacts ////
I'll let you know in 4 hours ...................[The epoxy worked 100 % , looks better than new .... ]

BY TOTAL MCS MOD

Total deserves all the creidt I just saved it for referance.

[ghost71799]

Copy & paste, people wanted to 'beef up' the contacts on the M/C without soldering. This stuff has been used to repair PC boards (along with a little super glue) for years by TV repairmen, Then they charge you for a new board.

QUOTE:
I just bought some silver epoxy that is used to repair circuit boards , The stuff is made by MG chemicals quote from the package "Forms a high strength conductive bonds. use in place of traditional solder. perfect for joining heat sensitive components.good for repairing defective traces and creating jumpers.Excellent for high frequency.emi/rfi sheilding applications "
I have used this before and see no problems re-tinning the magic card contacts ////
I'll let you know in 4 hours ...................[The epoxy worked 100 % , looks better than new .... ]

BY TOTAL MCS MOD

Total deserves all the creidt I just saved it for referance.

I don't want any credit for it or anything take it as it is, I was just trying to help because I did a search here for epoxy and conductive glue and came up empty handed.

Ghost

[smilingjack]

This was discussed here at milli's months ago. I just copied part of the post and saved it.
Several people who were afriad to solder the contacts found and used it to 'pump up' the M/C contacts and it worked. (no more bus card)
I used it many, many years ago to repair PC boards when they were expensive to replace and hard to repair.
I think if you search for the entire post it has more information about where to get it. Including discussion with silly a "TV" repairman who swore he never heard of it.
(Try silver epoxy or total for the search) The post may have the distributor in it.
It has never really been a commercial hme product, mostly for professionals.

I do remember finding the place that sold it back then and looking at the specs and price, it's not cheap.

It remember it was a commercial supply house not the Rat Shack

[ghost71799]

Ok found it Noco7 was indeed the first one to talk about it on 04/30/2004, my bad.

We can delete this thread if ya'll want.

Ghost

[smilingjack]

P.S. It's different from the stuff Birdie is talking about, that stuff is real nice to make or touch up a low power 'test' board before you make the real thing, just inert your parts in a RS pre-fab breadboard and draw the circuit in.

The Silver Epoxy can handle more voltage and heat.

[ghost71799]

P.S. It's different from the stuff Birdie is talking about, that stuff is real nice to make or touch up a low power 'test' board before you make the real thing, just inert your parts in a RS pre-fab breadboard and draw the circuit in.

The Silver Epoxy can handle more voltage and heat.

Yeh its some good stuff from the research I did on google.

So is acetone it will give you cancer after reading the M.S.D.S.

Try using nitro cellulose and acetone togeather and rolling it for twenty to forty five minutes then mixing it with black powder, coal dust, and flaked magnnesium tossed/mixed togeather it makes a hell of a slurry in pyrotecnics the acetone and nitro cellulose alone makes a binder which is nothing more than a glue.

Ghost

[bugger]

is this the same stuff that you can repair the traces on rear window de-foggers? the stuff is sold at any car parts stores....you just paint it on like nail nail polish.....

[smilingjack]

NO thats like the stuff Birdie was talking about very low load and fragile stuff.

[BirdieMod]

If this is all about a MC not making contact, Well, Thats easy, Flip a HU card upside down( Chip Facing Up) and stack it on the MC, Works for me.