R259 left pad gone doing AR105B lock

[diesel12]

I'm usually pretty darn careful, but haven't done a digi lock install in a while. I've got every single wire done on the AR105B lock except the WE TSOP that goes to the Left R259 pad. I had the wire down but it seemed flimsy. I pulled it up and the pad came with it.....

I'm super bummed as everything else on this receiver is working great! Is there some alternate WE TSOP connection point, or should I just follow the trace down closer to the chip and scrape away a little bit of cover and solder there? I'm worried about messing it up again. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

Vitals: Dish 3900
Max/Mel working great.
AR105B

EDIT: Updated title to show that I now think I'm good to go on the R259 connetion. I still get power light flashing when I plug in the receiver. Right before installing the lock, I had the receiver working using Yvous and it ran for an hour and a half with no problems. As seen in my last post below, I need to figure out how to bypass the lock temporarily to know that the receiver itself is still working. Thanks for reading!

[diesel12]

Scratch the trace next to the lift pad. Then apply a little solder. I like cuttin off a small piece from the solder roll and placing it where I need it. Then quickly touch it with iron.

Ok, I'll try that quick. I'm nervous about hitting another trace because there are so many close to that one. Gotta find my exacto quick. Thanks for the reply. I wanted to throw up when I realized what I had done. I spent so much time getting lock in and Emu created and installed I was worried I had just blown it completely.

Be back with status in a bit.

I've got a Cannon Video Visualizer that I'll plugin quick so I can view what I'm doing better on my projector. Should have done that in the first place probably.

[diesel12]

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

Here's what I'm working with. The pic is a little blurry. I've got a scraping tool that came with a radio shack solder kit, would it be ok to use that to scrape or should I use a carpenter knife?

[diesel12]

Either will probably work. Just expose enough of the copper trace for the solder to stick too. Cut a small piece of solder off and place over the trace. Holding it in place with the wire you intend to solder to it will make it even better. That way you are doing both jobs at once. Or you could tint the wire, put a little solder on the wire, and then place on the exposed trace, and then melt the solder on. I would either tape or hot glue it after you are done.

Shit. Ok. Finished the Lock up. Now when I power the unit up, it lights up, but I got nothing on the video. The audio on the TV stops playing static, but no video comes up. Emu lights up correctly, but I'm not seeing anything from Yvous.

[diesel12]

Ok. The PWR light comes on right away. Then goes off for a few seconds. It flickers once, then flashes about 4 times and then stays on. I get nothing on video. Son of a gun. I hope I didn't wreck my brother's Christmas present.

EDIT: Yes, The receiver worked great a couple hours ago. I had only the Max/mel emu installed and was watching like a madman. With the lock in the off position, it seems to do the exact same thing.

[diesel12]

How about the GND connection for the lock? I'm using C199 for VCC and GND. I'm wondering if I got some solder touching the tiny solder hole just to the upper left of the C199 GND connection. Se pic. I am getting a flash light to dbl check. Could this cause what I'm experiencing?

Nevermind..... I checked it and it just looked funny cause I had some bad light...

So I need to remove my superglue and try again on WE TSOP?

[diesel12]

I bet that you didn't make contact with the wire and the trace. If you have an Ohm meter, check your connection. If not, try again. Place some black tape on each side of the trace to keep from damaging anything else.

The WE TSOP trace?

[diesel12]

You didn't damage these traces did you? Looks like the one on the right is cut!

I don't think so. When I look at it in the light, it looks ok, it just has some flux on it I think. I ended up being an idiot when I superglued and did it right over the connection. When I pulled it up, it ripped the trace way farther towards the chip. I tipped the trace back a little more and am pretty sure I've got a good connection, but still the same status. Light flickers a few times and then goes solid with no video...

[diesel12]

Well, I believe that the only thing that will effect it turning on is the breaking of the WE. The lock completes the loop which allow the unit to work. I still think that your problem is with that. An Ohm meter will tell you for sure.

I've got a multi-meter. Where would I connect the other end? If I connect the one point to the place where the WE TSOP wire connects to the Lock, where would the other one go?

Thanks so much for your help! I really appreciate it, I would have pulled all my hair out by now... (Which isn't much)

[diesel12]

I have been trying to find a pic that will show where the trace goes, but can't find one. You will just have to trace the trace under the chip below the cut.


Ok, I stripped away just a little bit of that trace covering down closer to the chip. With my Multimeter on the new cut and the other side of the multi-meter on the soldered wire that I was assuming was connected ok, I get a solid "short". This makes me wonder if it isn't something else. I'll recheck the lock wires again.


Damn you test demons!

001438-- Thanks a ton! I'll keep plugging away at this.

[diesel12]

Still the blinking light crap and then no video or audio.

I rewired the thing for 1.5 of the AR105B flash. Do I need to remove the DQ7 wire? Will having it connected mess anything up? Also I move the WE CPU from SB22 to the Right pad from R259.

Lock flashed just fine with 1.5. I'm not sure which darn instructions I'm supposed to be using. I went by the one inside the 1.5 zip this time. Still nothing.

Someone point out what I'm doing wrong.

[diesel12]

Got this from oddcircuits support:

remove or bypass the lock and get the receiver working right first. Then
reconnect the lock and check the connections carefully against the
instructions. If the lock is installed correctly and the flash/eeprom on the
receiver is not corrupted, it will work properly. One of those things is the
cause of the problem.

How do you recommend that I go about this? I'm not sure how to just bypass it, which I prefer since I don't want to have to mess too much with the WE TSOP connection since I ended up pulling the trace so far back. Any insight would be appreciated.