501 experts needed?

[stinkfist]

Hello I got my first 501 ird from Ebay. I have been reading alot on these I need to convert to BEV. I have taken it apart and I cannot find the chips that say DT or GT anywhere. Is there a certain place to start to look. There are alot of chips in there. I have Jtaged it and got the boxkeys and saved the info on both the flashes. I got 7fff8c0000 in the base address in jkeys does this mean it needs the vid mod? I have erased sector sa52 sa53 and sa60 about 50 times. I then put it in the stream without the card for 5 hours still nothing. I double checked the signal and it is BEV. I noticed that when I first plug it in the power comes on and the hard drive starts but shuts off automatically in about ten seconds is this normal? Any advice? Thanks :) :)

[eddiemiller]

the tsop Flashes are at U6 & U7 , there right next to each other except one is horizontial and the other is Vertical, there about an 1 inch in front of the connector for the front panel , you can't miss them only 2 chips next to each other that look the same , read the numbers on top of the Chip the Las 2 digits should either Be DT ( hopefully its this one , at least at U7 so you want need a Vid Mod ) or GT ( the GT chips need Vid Mod)

[stinkfist]

Ok I found them they are both AMD DT chips. Now it has been in the stream for three hours and still nothing. I erased sector sa52 sa54 and sa60. Still no blinking light. Like it has done with the 20 301's I have changed to BEV. I have read something about grounding pin 1. My Jtag should already do that right. Because I can read and write to it fine in Jkeys no errors. Should I try to erase the full flash? It should not be this hard to change to BEV. Any suggestions? :) :) :)

[stinkfist]

By the way the firmware was at p154 on dishnetwork before I tried to converted it to Bev. I know it is something simple I am doing wrong. Thanks :) :)

[spooner238]

Try it with the Card in, I did even though it was a yellow Dish card. I left it over night and by morning I had the Bev preview channels. I've heard it both ways card in card out some times anything in the slot like the yellow car upside down. If you were able to back up your TSOPs you should not have to worry about grounding pin 1. After I got my 501 to update to Bev I made back ups of the Bev TSOPs which has saved my butt a couple times.

[squegee]

CARD IN - makes all the diff with 501's. Even when it's done with firmware updates it will go to "downloading menu" screen after the "downloading important updates" screen - let it download everything. When it's over, you'll get a FULL menu/guide, but only able to tune in 101/500 info channels, etc. After that, pull out the card and put in a progg'd MC or plastic. You will know you are done when you start seeing a stupid video about how to use the remote controls.

[stinkfist]

Ok this is were I am at now. I remembered when I did my first 6000 that I had to unplug the ird when the screen said to in Jkeys. I never did that because I never had a problem with the other 50 or so ird's. So I unplugged it when the screen flashed on and plugged back in within 3 seconds. Then I erased sector sa54 sa52 and sa60 and I read in the forums to erase sa61 to, so I did. Then I put it in the stream without the card and plugged it in. The power light is now going off and on. So that must of been it I thought. I then left it in the stream overnight and the next day it is still doing the same thing power light going on and off at odd times. Then I read your posts, so I put in the card. It now has been three hours and still the power light is going off and on. Did I mess up when I erased sa61? Should I erase the full flash and put the one I saved back on? Thanks. I will get this. :) :) :)

[spooner238]

You may have to reflash with a back up and start over, when I did my 501 I followed dudeman's Conversion guide and he said to erase the 1st sector only which is SA13 then restream, I've read about SA54, SA52 and SA60 but I thought that was for ECM fixing. I'm by far no expert, I'm just saying what worked for me.

[JCK7]

Anyone seen 1 with U6 GT . U7 on top xxxxxxx.next line 12279007F . OVER STAMPED LINE with GT OR DT cant tell . has yellow card now don't now if had blue 1 before no slot jtag. JCK7

[stinkfist]

Thanks Spooner. Do you know where the dudemans giude can be found? I will give it a try. :) :)

[spooner238]

Got mine from kickinchicken.org, another Sat site. Found it under Essential files then Bev Files, then I think More Files then select Bell. there may be some here at dssftp if you search by author who is dudeman316 he has many easy to read guides that helped me alot.

[stinkfist]

Ok I erased the full flash2 but could not program the original one back on it. It said that the whole flash was not fully erased. So I had to get out of Jkeys and now I cannot get back in with Jkeys. It now has no info in the boxkeys and IRD section and gives me the FFFFFF error when I try to flash progam. What is the OJ1 jumper and how does it work? I have Milli's buffered Jtag with new batteries. When I plug it in now both the power light and the record light stay on. I think I ruined my first IRD. :cry: :cry:

[speed]

Ok I erased the full flash2 but could not program the original one back on it. It said that the whole flash was not fully erased. So I had to get out of Jkeys and now I cannot get back in with Jkeys. It now has no info in the boxkeys and IRD section and gives me the FFFFFF error when I try to flash progam. What is the OJ1 jumper and how does it work? I have Milli's buffered Jtag with new batteries. When I plug it in now both the power light and the record light stay on. I think I ruined my first IRD. :cry: :cry:

If both U6 and U7 are Dt's then you need to do a OJ1 mod to erase and write to the Tsop's. Otherwise you will get an error that the flash is not empty.

In fact if both TSOP's were DT and the Data at address 7FFFFFAC in TSOP 2 was 0000, you could have just streamed unit and plugged in Blue/MC/Atmega Card.
Now you will need to do OJ1 mod to write and erase.

[stinkfist]

Where can I find more info on the OJ1 mod? I have looked in the files section and done a search. Thanks :) :)

[speed]

Where can I find more info on the OJ1 mod? I have looked in the files section and done a search. Thanks :) :)

here is a pic, real simple, just solder a wire between the two points or install a switch like I did so I coulpd turn it off and on when needed.

[stinkfist]

Great thanks. Can I just leave the wire soldered to the two points or do I have to unsolder them when I Jtag? Is the switch way better? Thanks :)

[speed]

Great thanks. Can I just leave the wire soldered to the two points or do I have to unsolder them when I Jtag? Is the switch way better? Thanks :)
You only solder them together when you need to erase/write/program. Then you need to take the wire off, hence I put in a Rat Sahck switch and ran wires to back of IRD, drilled hole and mounted switch and labeled Off/On. THat way I do not need to take cover off, also mounted a DB9 female plug back there and have it hard wired for my Jtag. I do all my IRD's that way, takes time up front but I have a simple Jtag with male DB9 on one side and DB25 with the 100ohm Res. That way I go from IRD to IRD and never need to take cover off.

[ynot-try]

you dont need to do the OJ1 thingy, well not always, jumping pad 1 on the jtag point to ground works just as well. dont forget to write a new virgin eeprom also to the unit. both flashes need to be erased but only flash 2 needs to be wrote back as the restreaming will take care of flash 1.

[stinkfist]

Ok I got it to erase the full flash 1 & 2. I then wrote the orginal flash 2 that I saved to it. I then put it back in the stream and the record light and power light are still on. I noticed then I tried to read it in Jkeys after I wrote the flash back on the boxkeys and ird info were all ffffffff. I have never put a virgin eeprom on before is this why it is not updating? I tried to look for a virgin eeprom and good bin for it in the files section but it will not let me in. :) :) :)

[omare]

Ok I got it to erase the full flash 1 & 2. I then wrote the orginal flash 2 that I saved to it. I then put it back in the stream and the record light and power light are still on. I noticed then I tried to read it in Jkeys after I wrote the flash back on the boxkeys and ird info were all ffffffff. I have never put a virgin eeprom on before is this why it is not updating? I tried to look for a virgin eeprom and good bin for it in the files section but it will not let me in. :) :) :)

Try completely erasing FLASH2 about 5 times. Don't mess with FLASH1 as it will take care of itself. When erased, try reading FLASH2 with JKEYS, it shouldn't detect what IRD model it is. Then you know it's been erased.

Load your backup that you made before erasing the chip. Write it back and try reading the FLASH now, it should be reading ok.

Put it back in the stream, but put a yellow card in it.. that's the only way I can make mine to power up and take the necessary updates when I've restored the TSOP.

Post your results or any problem you still have, so we can see what else can be done.

[ynot-try]

if you need a flash let me know. PM me with the build and an email address.

I found i have never had a problem restreaming without a card, only needed a card to update the flash. the 501 will work with a blue card, if you need to but a virgin firmware yellow isnt recognised and still need blue

[stinkfist]

Ok I think when I saved the flash it got currupted. Because every time I write the flash back on it gives me ffff in the ird and boxkey info. I think I need a good flash to make a virgin eeprom. :) :)

[ynot-try]

you forgot the email addy to send it too

[LittleE]

Hi guys can some one tell me were to get a 501 flash #2.I have searched through all the echostar TSOP and could not find a DCED any wh :cry: ere.Any help would be great !!!!!

[skinerd]

Look for DCEA, DCED is the eeprom build.

[LittleE]

I wrote this on another site, not sure if I have posted it here before.....This info also applies to 5100/501.

My unit is a dispvr508-011
with the DT chips (2 TSOPS)

NO VID MOD REQUIRED.

TOP JTAG PADS FOR 501/508

REAR OF DP508/5800

OOOOOOOOOO <- 19-17-15-13-11-09-07-05-03-01
OOOOOOOOOO <- 20-18-16-14-12-10-08-06-04-02

FRONT OF DP508/5800

My buffered JTAG is from www.dishkbron.com and if you read the forums section he has a topic on creating a permanent JTAG using a PS/2 Sytle Plug. Works awsome, I have done 2 3100's and now my 5800.

Parts List

1 Dishkbron Buffered JTAG
6-12" of CAT5 Cable
1 Roll of 30 gauge wrap write
1 6 Position Chassis DIN Jack
1 6 PIN DIN Plug
1 6 Pin Plug to Go onto 6 Pins of JTAG
12 Pins (6 Extras) that slide into the Plug above.
2 Ultra Mini Toggle Switch SPST on-off

Total Cost about $55.00 US.

Make your cable and test to make sure that you have all thin pins soldered in the correct order and the connections are good.

6 Position Chassis DIN Jack

Ignore X just a spacer. O's are pins.

XOX Pin 3
OOO Pin 2 Pin 6 Pin 4
OXO Pin 1 Pin 5
XOX Grnd

Pin 1 = GRND
Pin 2 = TRST
Pin 3 = TDO
Pin 4 = TDI
PIN 5 = TCK
PIN 6 = TMS
GRND G = GRND for the Jack

Solder to pads as noted below using 30 gauge wire. If you are crappy at
soldering use a generous amount of rosin, make sure you tin the wire and
let it rip. Test your connections after with a voltmeter.

REAR OF DP508/5800

2O3456OOOZ <- 19-17-15-13-11-09-07-05-03-01
OOOOOGOZO1 <- 20-18-16-14-12-10-08-06-04-02

FRONT OF DP508/5800

Z Points are soldered to 1 Toggle Switch

OJ1

If you search the forums you will find a picture of where OJ1 is located. When you do find it solder 30 gauge wire to the pads (1 square 1 round) and then solder to the other toggle switch.

# <- Square
O <- Round

OJ1 is critical if you do not do this part you will not be able to put the unit in the proper state for JTAGGING.

Get a copy of JKEYS - 2.9.9 or Higher

You will have to make some modifications to the jkeys.def file.

Find the entry below:

IRD, 8, "501-5100", 6, 3, 1, 1, 2, 2, 0x7FFFFFC0, 0x7FFFFFC4, 0x7FFFFFA0, 0x7FFFFFA8, 0x7FFDFFF4, 0x7FFDFFF8, "10S", 3, 4
IRDFlash, 8, "Flash 1(U6-29DL323)", 0x2250, 0x7F800000, 0x400000, 2, 2, 0
IRDFlash, 8, "Flash 2(U7-29DL323)", 0x2250, 0x7FC00000, 0x400000, 2, 2, 0

Change 0x7FFFFFA0 to 0x7FFFBFE0.

Save the file.

Hook up your JTAG and cable you made and plug into PS/2 Jack.
Flip to to toggle switch on.
Turn on IRD. If green and red light on the front don't come on then you haven't flipped the toggle switch or your connections are wrong.

Start up JKEYS.

In my case my LPT port pumps out a little too much juice so I have to unplug the power supply to the JTAG.

All the info should show up...Boxkeys etc.

Save flash 1, Flash2 and EEPROM.

If you aren't getting tranfer rate of at least 12500+ bytes per sec then your solder point are no good and odds are the dumps will not be good. Should take about 5min 30sec to save each Flash and 3 sec to save EEPROM.

Open Flashedit and confirm the files are OK.
Select Model 501/508/5100 (moved bootsrap)

Make a few backups just to be safe.

Get a copy of Dudeman316's Provider conversion Guide and goto the
501(508)/5100(5800) Conversion do 4th option. Erase Section SA13
of Flash 2(U7).

Turn off the IRD and uplug everything and switch the toggle switches off.

Put into the stream and in about 15-20min it will update with the firmware.

Unplug and make some more backups of your TSOPS and EEPROM.

Plugged the IRD back in and put in the card (love the 508 because the card is completely hidden).

Went to look for some porn but could find it. Turns out virgin units are truly 'virgin' and have a password set on them. Not a problem.

Press menu-6-3-browse-themes-tv/video (do it fast) and should give you a memory dump screen scoll down to 320 and this is what I saw.

320 00000000 31393934 01001700 000000007

in the second column read between the 3's so my password was 1994.Thank you guys for all your help. A friend of mine sent me a copy of his file off his 501. We wrote it to the ird and all is good now.finaly got the up date to p223.