508, Tsop, Eeprom

[coolman2]

Hello,

I have a 508 and erased flash1, flash2, and the eeprom. I do not have a working backup of these files (I missed up somewhere). Where can i find these files? My motherboard sticker is DC3D.

I tried putting a software on the eeprom and flash2 (erase flash1) and at bootup, the hard drive does not turn on, the power LED is off, but I can read the JTAG. What is going on? Maybe I have the wrong software.

Thanks,

[EMC510]

There a link on top of the page. Click on Public File Download.

[coolman2]

I see different build configs (e.g. DCKA). Do I have to match the eeprom or flash build config numbers with my current 508 IRD? Also, FlashEdit allows you to load a flash file and save an eeprom from this file. Can I then use this eeprom for my IRD?

I tried various FLASH and EEPROMs on my IRD and nothing would boot up. The hard drive never turns on. The Flash file goes into FLASH2, FLASH1 is erased, correct? Any suggests?

[EMC510]

I see different build configs (e.g. DCKA). Do I have to match the eeprom or flash build config numbers with my current 508 IRD? Also, FlashEdit allows you to load a flash file and save an eeprom from this file. Can I then use this eeprom for my IRD?

I tried various FLASH and EEPROMs on my IRD and nothing would boot up. The hard drive never turns on. The Flash file goes into FLASH2, FLASH1 is erased, correct? Any suggests?

Can you post the step you did already?

Here a C/P step found it on the net. My LBA is different from the list below.

1. Solder in 510 JTag wires/connector
2. Solder in OJ1 jumper (This can be added to a DB9 Jtag connector so that it can be activated from outside the box as done with the 301.13 mod. In fact I wired mine this way so the box need not be opened to jtag it. The square pad connects to PAD1, the round pad is GND)
3. Solder in Vidmod. (I pulled my 12V from the + side of the filter cap for the hard drive C279.) Cut traces on top and bottom of board for vidmod.
4. Use MAXBLAST or similar Seagate software to Adjust LBA of original hard drive so that firmware detects it as a 508. I used a LBA of 195312499.
5. Backup original U6/U7 and EEPROM.
*** Steps 6-10 can be dropped if drive does
*** not need to be re-married after LBA adjust.
*** I have not tested it without re-marrying the drive.
6. If your original firmware version is P079 you can use this to re-marry your LBA adjusted hard drive to your unit. Otherwise download matching P079 firmware version for your unit. Should match the sticker in the unit. i.e. DC8D tag requires DC8A P079 firmware.
7. Use MAXBLAST to zero first 1% of hard drive.
8. Use FlashEdit2.0a2 to create a virgin eeprom image that matches your firmware tag.
9. If your 510 is not already flashed with P079 firmware flash P079 firmware to board.
10. Flash virgin EEPROM to board.
*** End of re-marry procedure.
11. Do D500 mod as described by phiberoptic:

3- open jkeys
4- click on flash programming
5- reset the ird and click on ok
6- in the address section, write: 7FFFFFAC
7- click on read, D500 will appear
8- change it to 0000
9- click on program

12. Connect the 510 and power using original Yellow card. Wait for receiver to take the latest update from the stream.

[skinerd]

Go read some 510 threads, we have thoroughly discussed these errors and the ways to get around them......

[coolman2]

Here is the procedure I did on my 508 (not 510). I compiled this by reading up on things:

-----------
1. Find a DC3D (motherboard sticker)/DC3A (flash build config) TSOP files.
2. Using FlashEdit do the following:
a. Load flash file using "501/508 (ird info moved)" and verify all info looks valid and not
garbled. Try the other settings to see if they are garbled. For IRD/Box Keys of 11 22 33,
AA BB CC, this is ok.
b. Enter my IRD # and Box Key #. Check the "Fix CRC" button and make sure CRC number is green.
c. Save as Personal Dump.
d. Save Virgin EEPROM and use the motherboard build number DC3D.

3. Prep IRD
a. Unplug the IRD.
b. Turn on Vid Mod by connecting A to 12V.
c. Connect Pad1 to Ground (Flash write enable).
d. Plug IRD and power up.

3. Flash/EEPROM - Program the IRD Flash and EEPROM
a. In JKeys, make sure your IRD selection is at "508-5800" at all times.
b. Erase Flash1 (U6) and Flash2 (U7) 3 times each.
c. Program Flash2 (U7).
d. Optional or can try at after IRD is working. In Flash2 (U7), change 0x7FFFFFAC from D500 to 0000.
e. Erase Flash1 (U6) again.
f. Program Flash1 (U6) with same file used for Flash2 (U7).
g. Program EEPROM.

4. Verify that you can get IRD/Box Key info when using the "501/508" IRD selection. Verify no garble data anywhere.
5. Try it
a. Power off IRD.
b. Switch Vid Mod off.
c. Disconnect PAD1 to Ground (Disable flash write).
d. Plug IRD and power on. Wait for a few minutes.
----------

I used two different DC3A flash and my original flash. I have 2 GT chips. I did the 3 wire (A, B, 12V) Vid Mod with the no R331 resistor (only see silk screeen). I do no have an OJ1 jumper. JKeys works and all since I can erase, program, and read. My hard drive never turns on, no LED, I just get the fan. What chip is the CPU? Is it the one with the "Omega-PVR" label? This chip gets warm, but not hot to wear I have to remove my finger from this chip.

It seems I tried almost everything I read and can't get it to work. Any last suggestions?

Thanks,

[coolman2]

I am using the Jkeys 2.9.9 and 2.9.11. Here is the jkeys.def section for the 508:

IRD, 18, "508-5800", 6, 3, 1, 1, 2, 2, 0x7FFFFF40, 0x7FFFFF44, 0x7FFFBFE0, 0x7FFFFFA8, 0x7FFDFFF4, 0x7FFDFFF8, "10S", 3, 4
IRDFlash, 18, "Flash 1(U6-29DL323)", 0x2250, 0x7F800000, 0x400000, 2, 2, 0
IRDFlash, 18, "Flash 2(U7-29DL323)", 0x2250, 0x7FC00000, 0x400000, 2, 2, 0


Do these settings match yours? How do you know if you fried your IRD?

Thanks,

[EMC510]

Make sure you ground the OJ1. I was able to write to U7 but I guess it was corrupt. Got only the fan to turn on. I have that same problem as you can read my thread. I than finally ground the right OJ1 pad. Was able to flash the virgin U7 and eeprom @ P079 to marry the HDD. Than reflash virgin U7 and eeprom @ P223. Hook everything up the green light come on than off. I let it sit for 10-20 min. I use the remote and turn on the ird.

[speed]

Well, it sounds as if everything is working so far. You did not need to erase your flash and EEprom and install a different one, unless you resized the HD on a working 510 and needed virgin SW.

You do not restore U6 only U7 with a Virgin EEprom, and change the D500 to 0000.

If you didn't resize the HD of a 510, I would just load U7 and a virgin EEprom (created from U7, moved ird info in the drop down box of flash edit) and do the change above at address 7FFFFFAC. That's all you need to do if it was a 508 besides the Vid Mod. (Which allowed you to write) Then let it restream if it needs it. By the way, what SW version is the 508 at?

You are doing to many things that you don't need to do.

PS. If you have the original U7 backup I would use it. But you stated you lost it.

[coolman2]

EMC510,

Where can I find instructions on grounding OJ1? Is 1/4 of an inch from the crystal part and has a square and round pad? Can I just connect these two pads via a switch to ground OJ1?

My original build config is P084DC3D-N and build config is DC3A. At one point, this was updated to P229 I think via the stream.

Also, do I need to ground OJ1? A read that you can either ground Pin 1 of JTAG (actually it is called PAD 1 which is a square pad that is used to Write Enable the Jtag) or ground OJ1. I already have a switch to ground Pin1 or PAD1 of the Jtag to Write Enable things. If you still think I need the OJ1 ground, then please say so.

Thanks

[sukh77]

you don't ground OJ1. Do a search for OJ1.

[coolman2]

As I was moving the 12V wire for my Vid Mod (3 wire & 1 trace cut) and AC adapter cable for my JTAG device around, JKeys would error and then work fine depending where I put the power cables. I found out that I must make sure the AC Adapter wire is kept away from my JTAG cables or JKeys will not work. Also, the 12V wire for the vid mod should be shielded since it sits right next to the A + B wires and the 12V wire sits on top of the motherboard probably interfering with some electronic components. This is EMI interference, correct?

If I were to use "shielded" wire for my 12V, would that help in getting my 508 to work? So far, I have tried all the methods EMC510 and SKINERD did for their 510/508 and nothing worked. I could convert my vid mod to the 4 wire method and/or use shielded wire for my 12V wire. Any comments?

[skinerd]

As I was moving the 12V wire for my Vid Mod (3 wire & 1 trace cut) and AC adapter cable for my JTAG device around, JKeys would error and then work fine depending where I put the power cables. I found out that I must make sure the AC Adapter wire is kept away from my JTAG cables or JKeys will not work. Also, the 12V wire for the vid mod should be shielded since it sits right next to the A + B wires and the 12V wire sits on top of the motherboard probably interfering with some electronic components. This is EMI interference, correct?

If I were to use "shielded" wire for my 12V, would that help in getting my 508 to work? So far, I have tried all the methods EMC510 and SKINERD did for their 510/508 and nothing worked. I could convert my vid mod to the 4 wire method and/or use shielded wire for my 12V wire. Any comments?


I use 30 gauge wire for the 4 wire vid mod, never a problem.
You can convert a 3 wire to a 4 wire with an additional trace cut and added wire, if you have not ruined it with the 3 wire method (I have seen a bunch ruined that way), you should be ok.

[coolman2]

Skinerd,

In the dssftp.com file section, there is a easzy_508_vid_mod.zip file with the description "4 wire(A,B,C,12v), 2 trace cut method for vidmod 508s and 510s". Should I use this method? Also, I have a 508 with no R331 resistor, just a R331 silk screen label. One of the pictures shows the extra cut trace and may rely on the R331 resistor to be present which I do not have. Will this Vid Mod method work for my case? Should I solder the two pads for the R331 together?

Thanks,

[skinerd]

Skinerd,

In the dssftp.com file section, there is a easzy_508_vid_mod.zip file with the description "4 wire(A,B,C,12v), 2 trace cut method for vidmod 508s and 510s". Should I use this method? Also, I have a 508 with no R331 resistor, just a R331 silk screen label. One of the pictures shows the extra cut trace and may rely on the R331 resistor to be present which I do not have. Will this Vid Mod method work for my case? Should I solder the two pads for the R331 together?

Thanks,

I use that method for all 508/510's, r331 or not, and it works fine. I have never seena 510 with a r331, I use the 4 wire 2 cut method, and have done dozens of 508/510's.

[coolman2]

I completed the 508 4 wire Vid Mod (A, B, C, 12v, 2 trace cuts) converted from the 3 wire vid mod. I am able read/write/erase to the two flash TSOP without any problems. After writing to flash1, flash2, and eeprom, I read back the data and used a compare file program and concluded that all data was written to the IRD successfully. I tried various methods:
1) Erase flash 1&2, write to flash2 & eeprom
2) Erase flash 1&2, write to flash 2 then 1 and eeprom.
3) Used P067, P223, and original flash dumps
4) Turned on Vid Mod and PAD1 to ground when writing to flash and turned them all off when trying to start the IRD.

Nothing seems to work. I get only the fan and the hard drive never turns on. The two flash chips and the CPU are not HOT, just warm a little.

I am able to read/erase/write to the two flashes while vid mod is off and Jtag Pad1 is not grounded. It seems the IRD is stuck in the Boot From DCU mode and cannot boot from Flash. Can someone give me some advice?

Thanks,

[EMC510]

Did you short the OJ1 when you jtag it to write ? That the only thing you did not state on you post.

[coolman2]

EMC510,

Sukh77 says you set the OJ1 to ground. Other posts says the grounding of OJ1 and Jtag PAD1 to ground does exactly the same thing which is to Boot from DCU instead of flash to allow the JTAG to read/erase/write to the flash. I have the PAD1 to ground switch. Do I really need to OJ1 since I already have the PAD1 to ground?

I will try it at home. I can hand hold (not solder) a wire connection from OJ1 to ground or I can solder in a pin for jumper cables to ground.

What is your opinion about the OJ1 being the same as the Jtag PAD1?

Thanks,

[EMC510]

EMC510,

Sukh77 says you set the OJ1 to ground. Other posts says the grounding of OJ1 and Jtag PAD1 to ground does exactly the same thing which is to Boot from DCU instead of flash to allow the JTAG to read/erase/write to the flash. I have the PAD1 to ground switch. Do I really need to OJ1 since I already have the PAD1 to ground?

I will try it at home. I can hand hold (not solder) a wire connection from OJ1 to ground or I can solder in a pin for jumper cables to ground.

What is your opinion about the OJ1 being the same as the Jtag PAD1?

Thanks,

Here what skinerd's Quote on other 501,508 and 510.

Better to use the OJ1 connection, just jump the 2 pads together and then it puts the receiver in link mode to allow easy flash access.
It sounds like the flash is corrupt, P223 is the latest so it won't update from there, you will need to load a virgin flash, zero and remarry the harddrive as it may be corrupt too. I would full zero it, which will take a few hours to complete.

When I first start my 510. All I get was the fan or just flashing green light cuz my flash was corrupt. Then I short the OJ1 pads ( circle and square ) together.

[sukh77]

I never said to ground OJ1. I said short 2 points. EMC said ground OJ1.

[coolman2]

I just did the OJ1 ground (ground the two pads together and removed them after flashing). I still cannot get this thing to work. I have a 508 and not a 510. To make sure the TSOP file is good, can you give me the filename of a known good one from the dssftp file section? Also, how many times should you erase the flash? Should I ground OJ1 and PAD1 while flashing? Any other suggestions?

[kadak]

fell the cpu in it and see if it is getting almost to hot to touch. if so the cpu is fried

[kadak]

did yours have an offset ird info or was it the old way. that will give you problems if you are not flashing with the right ird info flash.

[coolman2]

The CPU chip is the biggest chip in the 508, right? While flashing the IRD and trying to get it to boot up, the CPU and two flash chips get warm but not hot. I can leave my finger on the chip for 1+ minute and it just gets warm. Same with the two Flash chips. I noticed that the CPU chip got much warmer with the 3 wire vid mod and is cooler with the 4 wire vid mod.

In FlashEdit, I select the "501/508/510 (moved IRD info)" and it shows 11 22 33... AA BB CC.. for the Box Keys and IRD #. This is where I enter my own IRD# and Box Keys and selected the Fix CRC button. I save using Personal Dump and save the EEPROM using the DC3D number that is on my motherboard sticker.

I get no Power LED, HD does not turn on, and I just get the fan running. When I turn off vid mod, removed the OJ1 jumper, removed the PAD1 to ground connection, and try to startup the IRD, I can still use JKeys to detect IRD and read/save the entire flash2. I did a file compare of the readback from flash2 and the original and all is identical which means the flash write was successful. It seems the IRD is still booting in the DCU (?) mode instead of the FLASH/ROM mode.

[skinerd]

Here is the procedure I did on my 508 (not 510). I compiled this by reading up on things:

-----------
1. Find a DC3D (motherboard sticker)/DC3A (flash build config) TSOP files.
2. Using FlashEdit do the following:
a. Load flash file using "501/508 (ird info moved)" and verify all info looks valid and not
garbled. Try the other settings to see if they are garbled. For IRD/Box Keys of 11 22 33,
AA BB CC, this is ok.
b. Enter my IRD # and Box Key #. Check the "Fix CRC" button and make sure CRC number is green.
c. Save as Personal Dump.
d. Save Virgin EEPROM and use the motherboard build number DC3D.

3. Prep IRD
a. Unplug the IRD.
b. Turn on Vid Mod by connecting A to 12V.
c. Connect Pad1 to Ground (Flash write enable).
d. Plug IRD and power up.

3. Flash/EEPROM - Program the IRD Flash and EEPROM
a. In JKeys, make sure your IRD selection is at "508-5800" at all times.
b. Erase Flash1 (U6) and Flash2 (U7) 3 times each.
c. Program Flash2 (U7).
d. Optional or can try at after IRD is working. In Flash2 (U7), change 0x7FFFFFAC from D500 to 0000.
e. Erase Flash1 (U6) again.
f. Program Flash1 (U6) with same file used for Flash2 (U7).
g. Program EEPROM.

4. Verify that you can get IRD/Box Key info when using the "501/508" IRD selection. Verify no garble data anywhere.
5. Try it
a. Power off IRD.
b. Switch Vid Mod off.
c. Disconnect PAD1 to Ground (Disable flash write).
d. Plug IRD and power on. Wait for a few minutes.
----------

I used two different DC3A flash and my original flash. I have 2 GT chips. I did the 3 wire (A, B, 12V) Vid Mod with the no R331 resistor (only see silk screeen). I do no have an OJ1 jumper. JKeys works and all since I can erase, program, and read. My harddrive never turns on, no LED, I just get the fan. What chip is the CPU? Is it the one with the "Omega-PVR" label? This chip gets warm, but not hot to wear I have to remove my finger from this chip.

It seems I tried almost everything I read and can't get it to work. Any last suggestions?

Thanks,

For starters, the 3 wire vid mod is a loser, I have seen numerous PVRs ruined because of it, however some people say they have has success with it. I will not use it and strongly advise against using it.
Everything else sounds fine.....
OMEGA-PVR is the CPU, the 3 wire mod can damage it and or flash chips, excessive heating is a sure sign it's trashed, but even if it don't heat it still can be ruined.
I'll wager you do have an OJ1, you just don't see it.

[coolman2]

Skinerd,

I programmed both flashes with all 1's, read it back, and did a file compare and there was no differences. I did the same by writting all 0's in both flashes. It appears that both flashes are fully working. In another thread, you said that the CPU can become damaged and can be fixed by supplying a 3.3V to the CPU. Should I try this and how do I do it? Is there anything else I can try?

I might have to buy another receiver. If I do, what receiver do you recommend that is easy to hack/mod?

Thanks,

[skinerd]

Skinerd,

I programmed both flashes with all 1's, read it back, and did a file compare and there was no differences. I did the same by writting all 0's in both flashes. It appears that both flashes are fully working. In another thread, you said that the CPU can become damaged and can be fixed by supplying a 3.3V to the CPU. Should I try this and how do I do it? Is there anything else I can try?

I might have to buy another receiver. If I do, what receiver do you recommend that is easy to hack/mod?

Thanks,

The 3 wire vid mod may have ruined the CPU, but before you give up on it make sure that pad 1 and the OJ1 are not together or grounded. One of the OJ1 pads should havew about 3.2v on it and the other ground.

Did the flash you wrote open correctly in flashedit under "moved ird info"".

[lefty]

re: OJ1

Yes a simple toggle switch can be connected to the two points to make turning it off and on easier. If you put the switch in the rear of the IRD you can leave the cover on while j-tagging (assuming you have a case with the j-tag port in it).

Also, KADAK - respectfully request the losing of that terribly visually annoying sig line. It makes my eyes throb out of synch!

:cool:

[coolman2]

I made sure the Pad1 and OJ1 are not together or grounded. In FlashEdit, I made sure the TSOP files opened in the "501/508/510 moved ird info" correctly with the CRC fix button on. It looks like I tried all for this IRD. Is there another way to fix it that I can try before I totally give up?

Also if i buy another IRD, what DISH receiver should I buy that uses the least amount of MODS to reduce IRD damage? I would like to get another PVR (501, 508, 510), but want the least hardware mods for a max&mel emulator. What should I look for when shopping at ebay?

Thanks,

[lefty]

Also if i buy another IRD, what DISH receiver should I buy that uses the least amount of MODS to reduce IRD damage? I would like to get another PVR (501, 508, 510), but want the least hardware mods for a max&mel emulator. What should I look for when shopping at ebay?

Buying from ebay is a pig in a poke. You'll get somebody else's dead IRD or at best an IRD with GT chips.

For a better recorder setup that won't get zapped by Charlie: Get a 301.010 or 301.013 and run it into a ReplayTV or Panasonic Showstopper w/lifetime subscription (I have an old Showstopper with a 100 gig HD in series with my 501 IRD. I just need to remember to record from the 501 to the Showstopper more consistantly.

I'd be interested in the dead 508 for the HD (my drive is getting noisy) and front cover (I damaged the hell out it and have duct taped on). PM me if you want to scrap it.

:cool:

[coolman2]

I want to keep my 508 for now. I read in another thread that the OJ1 unjumpered should have a voltage between 1.5v - 3.3v and if it does, then it means the Omega-PVR CPU is not fried. Well using a multimeter, I measured a 2.04 VDC on OJ1 unjumpered which is above the 1.5V. I guess this means my CPU is working ok. Can someone verify this? I will try a few more times. Is it possible an ECM could have caused some of these problems. I recall trying to use CEMU Rom 11 emulation. I read that for a 508, in FlashEdit the TSOP file must show good values for IRD # and Box Keys. Is this correct or should I try to use a TSOP that opens in FE under "moved bootstrap" or the regular one?

I plan to do what Lefty says which is to buy a 301.010 or 301.013 IRD with a ReplayTV recorder. What is the difference between the .010 and .013 anyway? Also, since it is not good to buy and IRD from ebay since some can be defective, what are some good places to buy an IRD without having to activate it?

Thanks,

[lefty]

:cool: I want to keep my 508 for now.

Aw, shucks.

I guess this means my CPU is working ok. Can someone verify this?


I didn't check my 501, but on my 301 I did check yesterday and I did get a 1.8 volt reading. It was the first one I reflashed after the current ECM.

Is this correct or should I try to use a TSOP that opens in FE under "moved bootstrap" or the regular one?

In my experience (not set in stone!), I've found it a bit trial and error. But, if you do have a good flash file backup and open it with Flashedit before selecting that in the box - Flashedit selects the proper one when it loads the file.

Are you checking the accuracy of the box keys and the IRD # in Flashedit?

what are some good places to buy an IRD without having to activate it?

Flea markets. Trade days. Yard sales. Boot sales. Garage sales. Pawn shops.

All my equipment has come from flea markets. You can at least see the LED come on there.

[coolman2]

I tired one local swap meet place and they had a Dish 3000 and a few DirecTV IRDs. I decided to buy a 301-013 IRD via ebay for around $30 w/o remote or card. Sometime later, I will try to fix the 508 by replacing the CPU chip.

I want to do this 301-013 the right way. Can someone please point out which file I should download from the files area on how to mod my 301-013 IRD for use with CEMU emulation?

Thanks,

[sukh77]

www.bellexpress.vu for all u'r reading pleasures.