Error prog flash at offset 0x7FC0000

[gwabitz]

I have a DP301-013C, single TSOP, Lock, Vidmod, using Jkeys single flash.
At first I could'nt get into flash programming. Getting message "Flash codes returned not recognized by Jkeys FFFF/FFFF(JEDEC) & FFFF/FFFF". I changed 0x22CA to 0xFFFF in flash def number 15 and am now able to get in, but when I try to program the flash I get the Jkeys error "Error programming flash at offset 0x7FC0000" !

What do I need to do to program the flash?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[sukh77]

Your Vid mod might not be working. Check voltage to make sure you have 12V.

[gwabitz]

I have 11.6volts at SB35 and 3.2volts at "the spot"

[skinerd]

The lock may be keeping you out, make sure it's off, if it is off, jump we#0 and we#1 together temporarily.

[gwabitz]

Jumped WE#0 and WE1 together and still the same thing.

Any other suggestions?

[sukh77]

Do you have the lock in the off position.
You can also get the 0xffff when you don't have the correct jtag pins and if the jtag is not working properly. Double check everything. Check that you have good ground.

Check out some instructions with pics at www.bellexpress.vu/vidmod.html

[BirdieMod]

I have a few 13's doing the same thing, It seems sti chip control of the tsop is lost. Did you notice the erase function just flashes and doesn't really do anything? If you unplug power and plug back in it seems to do more on the erase function, But still will not reprogram erroring at 7fc yet. I'm up for idea's here.

[JT]

In gwabitz's case, id say try disconnecting VCC on the lock as well. It also helps to take the card out of the slot if you havn't done that already. Leaving the card in can sap that tiny amount of voltage that puts you too low to access the tsop.

[BirdieMod]

It seems more like the bootstrap is deleted and or not loading, Then even though editing jkeys def to enter programming you still cannot access the tsop to do anything. Let me rephrase that, It appears to access, But doesn't erase or write.
If something similiar to wall or slow mode for 005-010 series is possible for these 13's that might be the answer. Card inserted or removed doesn't seem to make any difference.

[JT]

If you can't figure it out Birdie I doubt I will have much to add. Just out of curiosity though, which vid mod did you do on the boxes your having probs with? Could your regulator have gone bad if you did that version?

[BirdieMod]

Sometimes I get stumped myself, Any idea's are welcome.
Vid mods are all permatly installed using a 7812, SB35 has the 3.3 or 12 depending on switch setting to power the WE of the 320 chip. This problem is mostly caused by a full erase of the tsop, Then losing power to the ird before reflashing. I had one ird that the tsop was corrupted by a non buffered jtag. Jkeys will find the STI chip, But that's it, Jedec codes are ffff, So edit the def and get to programming, But no sti control and no reflashing.
It's pretty much like a 301-010 with no lsi contol, But those we can use slowmode or wall.
Oh, The trap does load on these 13's though. Weird ?
At this point I am thinking connecting directly to the tsop chip with something like a sombrero or my emp30 chip programmer with adaptor my be the only solution.

[shaundeyton]

this may help it may not, my 301-13 thatwas doing this also would not right or read the eeprom, I removed and resolder everthing, then I erased the tsop with the switch in normal pos. then I erased it with 5v, then 9v, and last i used 12v. then without changing anything or resetting I wrote to the tsop 3 times. now I can right my epprom. everything reads and verifies ok. I mean what I read off the tsop and eeprom are the same as i wrote on it, where before it was not. but I still can not get the green light to come on at all. I think my bin files are not working 100%. hope this helps.

[gwabitz]

Thanks for all the info everyone!

I did notice that the erase flashes really quickly, like it didn't have enough time to erase.
My card is out of the slot.
I'm using Gunther's Vid mod with the regulator, which I like better than the zenor diode method.
I can program my EEPROM with no problems, and "save mem" works for both TSOP and EEPROM.
I think the guy I got this IRD from, sent 24volts to SB35.

I'll try disconnecting VCC and let you know how I make out.

[gwabitz]

Stupid question, but which connection is VCC on a Digilok4?

DQ1, DQ4, DQ7, WE0, or WE1?

Thanks

[skinerd]

Stupid question, but which connection is VCC on a Digilok4?

DQ1, DQ4, DQ7, WE0, or WE1?

Thanks


None of the above.....

[skinerd]

Thanks for all the info everyone!

I did notice that the erase flashes really quickly, like it didn't have enough time to erase.
My card is out of the slot.
I'm using Gunther's Vid mod with the regulator, which I like better than the zenor diode method.
I can program my EEPROM with no problems, and "save mem" works for both TSOP and EEPROM.
I think the guy I got this IRD from, sent 24volts to SB35.

I'll try disconnecting VCC and let you know how I make out.


24 volts might ruin the chip, to where it won't erase any longer, but will still read ok.

[gwabitz]

What connection do you consider VCC?

[HCCAfan]

sounds like your not getting good ground on the r79.

[gwabitz]

R79 is grounded good.
I completely removed my lock, and soldered R110 back into place, and I'm still having the same problem!
I've ordered a new flash chip which I'll install and let you know how I make out.
I think it's toasted.

Thanks for the 411.

[HCCAfan]

good luck man.

[gwabitz]

Well I finally replaced my TSOP chip, and I got my IRD working again!
What a job that was. I think I became cross-eyed trying to solder all those tiny pads in place.
The only querk I have, is that I had to have the Vid Mod on, to restream and reboot the IRD.
If the IRD is plugged in, I don't have to have it on.
Very strange.
Has anyone else ever had this problem?

[skinerd]

Well I finally replaced my TSOP chip, and I got my IRD working again!
What a job that was. I think I became cross-eyed trying to solder all those tiny pads in place.
The only querk I have, is that I had to have the Vid Mod on, to restream and reboot the IRD.
If the IRD is plugged in, I don't have to have it on.
Very strange.
Has anyone else ever had this problem?

Check SB35 with vid mod off and see if it is 3.2v.

[shaundeyton]

Well I finally replaced my TSOP chip, and I got my IRD working again!
What a job that was. I think I became cross-eyed trying to solder all those tiny pads in place.
The only querk I have, is that I had to have the Vid Mod on, to restream and reboot the IRD.
If the IRD is plugged in, I don't have to have it on.
Very strange.
Has anyone else ever had this problem?
where did you get the chip, I need two myself i think

[gwabitz]

SB35 is reading 1volt or less .8volts

I got my M29W320DT70N6 TSOP chip from Mouser.com like Skinerd suggested in another post.
They had stock, $9.80 US

[skinerd]

SB35 is reading 1volt or less .8volts

I got my M29W320DT70N6 TSOP chip from Mouser.com like Skinerd suggested in another post.
They had stock, $9.80 US

SB35 at 1v or less means the supply to the flash chip that comes fro the cpu is bad, sometimes you can get the 3.2v from another source, other than the "spot", and it will work.

[gwabitz]

I guess if I get 3.2volts from somewhere else on the board, I'll have to make sure I disconnect the VidMod so that I don't send 12volts to the place I took the 3.2volts from, the next time I turn the switch on right?

[superd2k]

Instead of "the spot" you can pull the 3.2/3.3v from the SW4 reset. with the ird front facing you, it's the lower right (of 4) pads....right next to the "R" of the word Reset.

Now, here's my main question: What the hell is causing this to happen? I have installed tons ov VIDmods on these .013's, and "boom" this crap just happens to them.

I've got about 4 of these bastards doing the same thing.....which is "nothing"

[gwabitz]

I used solder wick to remove all the solder holding the pins down, then gently lifted the chip using a dental pick.

After that was done, I made sure to pre-tin all the pins on the new chip prior to putting it in place so that it would bond with the old solder on the board.

I then just touched each pin quickly with my soldering iron tip to solder it in place. I have one of those magnifiying light/lens arms that helped alot to see those small pads!

[skinerd]

how do you remove the tsop chip? do you just desolder each pin one by one or is there something that can heat the whole thing and lift?

I use a hot air gun, but be careful, my first attempt removed a lot of other components as well........gently pry up while heating and get one side up, then continue heating until the chip blows off. Clean the traces with solder wick, but don't get them too clean or it will be hard to stick a new chip down.

[skinerd]

I guess if I get 3.2volts from somewhere else on the board, I'll have to make sure I disconnect the VidMod so that I don't send 12volts to the place I took the 3.2volts from, the next time I turn the switch on right?

Purpose of the vidmod switch is to select which of the 12v or 3.2v goes to SB35.
Correctly wired and the trace cut, there's no way to send 12v to anywhere except SB35.

[gwabitz]

Why does everyone grab 3.2volts from "the spot"?
It's such a difficult place to solder to. I found another pad that had 3.2volts, which was really easy to solder to.
So I guess I should remove the wire from "the spot" going to my Vidmod switch, and hook it up to my new source of 3.2volts?
Am I understanding this correctly?
Or does "the spot" serve another purpose I was unaware of?

[superd2k]

The only purpose it serves is to restore the trace cut. Most likely it was originally used because it was easier to follow the path from SB35 to it.

I pull my voltage source from the place I described in my previous post. Works just fine.

[gwabitz]

OK. That's what I'll do as well.

Thanks for the 411!

[skinerd]

Back of SPDT switch

0........to the "spot" or other 3.2v source.

0.......to SB35

0........12v

Switch one way SB35 is connected to 12v...........
Switch other way SB35 is connected to 3.2v........

[gwabitz]

Changed my 3.2volt source, and now it boots up fine when the IRD has been unplugged, and everything is working great!

Thanks for your help!!