2500a JTag - Is it Possible??

[carlito69]

Hi,
I’m having trouble with a Jtag on a Pansat 2500a. I made the cable with resistors, soldered pins onto the board as per diagrams, checked all connection for proper continuity from printer part of plug to pins on the board & recheck the ground all is good. Start “JKeys” detect – okay – open Wall.exe – Begin the process with Jkeys,
Flash Info
Part – 39VF800A
Mfg. – SST
Mfg Device – BF/2781
Read flash (flash dump I assume) save 100% then I go to Erase “FULL” hit the button “Erase whole flash?” – YES – message lower left of Jkeys - “Erasing whole flash” then “Awaiting erasure completion” I’m not sure that the flash is erased, so I do that a few times hoping the flash is erased, I go to “Program” Lower left message – “Checking if flash is blank” next window pop up “Flash selected is not currently blank. Continue anyway?” I go YES.
Open bin to flash, “Error performing flashing write request” In the back round I see 93% of the flash was written but not all. Receiver still dead no lights – the chip is getting warm when it’s on so I thing it’s still somewhat alive?
So far it’s been about 2 weeks & I have been reading lots & lots & lots of postings and trying to get this to go, I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. I follow the instruction to a tee, but still nothing.

Any one??? I know this can beat! But I still need some help!!

Hoping for some info,

Carlito

[joesnuffy]

Carlito,
Try this:

After your in the Flash Programming section of jkeys thats where you can erase and program the flash. Use the drop down menu to choose the IRD thats the little down arrow where it says IRD model choose FS-Life Time the base address should then be 7FE00000 and the bytes should be 100000. If you cant find the FS-Life Time just change the Base Address to 7FE00000 and the bytes should be 100000 if their not change them also if it will let you. If you can' t change the bytes don't worry about it just proceed making sure you did change the base address. Then Click on Erase then click on Program and choose the flash I pm'd you. Post results please.

It could most likely be that your not erasing the right address so its coming back saying that its not empty. If its not that then the EEPROM chip could be write-protected and may require 9-12 volts to the correct spot to allow it to be erased and programmed.

Joe :)

[carlito69]

Hey Joe,

I tryed that combo with no luck. You say apply 9-12v to where?? Can you send some info?

Thanks in advance,
carlito

[joesnuffy]

mistake

[joesnuffy]

Carlito,

I will have to research it the 9-12 volts spot.

You could try this now. Put 3 volts positive to lpt 2 on the side of resistor closest to the board on your jtag device you built and 3 volts ground to the chasis of the fta. Then try erasing the flash and see if it clears it. If it clears it when it checks to see if the flash is clear it won't give you the flash is not empty error. You might just need a 3 volts of voltage to get the flash to clear and load like on a normal dish network receiver.

Try the 3 volts first. Check out this guide on tsop chip replacement. Tsop Chips on 501s,508s,510s are made by AMD that end with DT are not right protected if they end in GT they are right protected. They have 2 tsop chips the Pansat 2500 has 1 tsop chip. I looked at my pansat 2500 which only has 1 tsop chip and the chip was made by MX its numbers are 29LV800BBTC so it ends with TC it was not write protected check yours to see if its the same chip. I am working off memory but I think the 9-12 volts is applied to leg number 11 or 12 on the eeprom chip. I always use a fresh 9 volt battery you could put the negative side of the battery to the pansat chasisusing a wire and the 9 volt side to a wire then to a stick pin and someone that is real steady could hold it on pin number 11 or 12 I still need to find out which pin. With the voltage applied you should be able to erase and program the entire flash to the tsop chip. On my 2500 pin 11 and 12 are not connected to anything so that would be farely easy. We just need to find out if its pin 11 or 12 maybe someone reading this knows. Again try the 3 volts first it less risky.

This guide will give you an idea of what the tsop chip looks like and how hard it would be to change it. Your chip could be fried but most likely its write-protected. I don't know why on earth they would have put a write protected chip in it unless they got a bad batch/write protected set tsop chips that week. If I remeber right yours was a clone so maybe they did it to save money. I will email you the guide.

I hope this helps,
Joe

[joesnuffy]

I checked its pin number 12 that gets the 9 volts positive on the eeprom chip to disable a write-protected tsop chip. On my pansat it had numbers going around the tsop chip not all the numbers but enough to figure out which pin is 12. You just have to start at 1 and count to 12 and thats the pin mine wasn't connected to anything. Witht the receiver disconnected you most likely could carefully tape the stick pin with the 12 volts positive carefully to that pin from the positive side of the 9 volt battery making sure to touch it and it only. Someone that is very steady could also hold it on that pin but they would have to be steady as a rock and would have to hold it for like 3 minutes. Then ground the ground side of the 9 volt battery to the receiver chasis. Then plug up the receiver and use JKEYS to erase the flash and reflash.

I hope this helps,
Joe

[carlito69]

Joe,

Staring to get some life out of it, hooked up a 9v then a 12v more like 13.7v starting to see lights in the display, - - - - & 8888. Better than before it was dark. Trying to erase the flash but no luck yet.
If any one has some wisdom on this -- Pass it on Please!!
The big chip (ST - OMEGA) is getting real hot, can't touch hot, should it be??
I hooked the cable to the SST 39vf800a chip - hope that’s the rite one.
Any more info I can get will be greatly appreciated.


Carlito.

[calin]

Carlito69, my two cents please, go to pantecdvb, they have a kind of tutorial where they show how to find the rigth spot for that, check it out!!!

[carlito69]

Thanks Calin for the info,

Checked it out & lots of info there! Unfortunately it’s not helping me with my problem with this receiver.
It seems that the receiver is somewhat back to life instead of showing nothing in the display it’s now showing 8888. I'm having a hell of a time tiring to erase the flash & load the orig one on, but I'm having no luck. I'm not too sure what kind of board I have? All the ones I see in the files around don't look like the one I have. I would attach a pic of it but I don't know how. The closest I've gotten was using the Skymax 1.3, it seemed to work I got the flash to erase according to the messages in the Skymax window and load but when it said to reboot the receiver manually and the night-rider light would show, they didn’t all I got was 8888. I tried to repeat the process with Skymax again, now when I try to open the program I get is a message "Parallel port can not be open" I can't even close the program, other message “Privileged Instruction"



Can you Help?

Carlito.

[DrRa]

All of the files in the ZIP package are needed and if you have a jtag cable (20 pin version) and have pins in the Jtag connector (J1), then you can bring your 2500A back.

The hardest part is that MOST 2500A do NOT have header pins in the J1 connector. Most have solder over the holes

http://rapidshare.de/files/6359519/2500A_jtag_JRF_v1.zip.html

theres a complete readme with info on how to bring your 2500 back to life!

[joesnuffy]

Reboot your computer. Turn it off then back on. Might help.

Joe