Jumpered Atmega settings

[ruciz]

I have an old jumper atmega wafer and was wondering if anyone could assist me in finding the jumper settings for programming it. At the moment it has no jumpers on it and detects as a Rom3 Rev 383 in the IRD - somehow it was up two weeks ago appearently until the dish did their semi-roll? Either way, if someone can help me out that would be great. Thanks!

[Morpheux]

doesnt have any jumper pins either? can you take a pic of it?

[ruciz]

its like a pin header on it, and its about 1.5 years old. I am assuming its a jumpered revision because of the header, as the jumperless ones don't have this. There are no pinouts on it or anything.. I will grab a photo of it in a moment here. I have lots of jumpers to put on it, just need to figure out where for it to be in programming mode.

http://img330.imageshack.us/img330/9311/img18354nq.th.jpg (http://img330.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img18354nq.jpg)


About the best shot I can get. Its a pretty simple wafer - the atmega128, a pin header, a 18.0MHz crystal, 2 caps and a resistor.

[jjeet]

here is pic i found from another site
if that help u

[ruciz]

saying that it contains errors and I cant view it.. Would you mind putting it on imageshack.us? (find image hosting good with them compared to on-forum hosting)

[Morpheux]

what about the other side, does it have pads there?

[Morpheux]

ok, just noticed i could magnify the picture, that's a brand new jumperless 10 pin atmega, I believe is the one mili is selling, he can probably sell you one, or you can get them on ebay, the programer conects to the 10 pin header next to the crystal.

[jjeet]

http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/9480/atmegareset9ga.th.gif (http://img474.imageshack.us/my.php?image=atmegareset9ga.gif)

[ruciz]

Hmm, on the back of the wafer it has a sticker from the dealer of the card that is dated August 19 2004 - I guess the atmegas were pretty much dead come Dec '04 though, which I forgot to take into consideration. I will look into making a programmer for it then, I thought it was weird that the header was 10-pin so I asked. Thanks for the help.

[ruciz]

ok, just noticed i could magnify the picture, that's a brand new jumperless 10 pin atmega, I believe is the one mili is selling, he can probably sell you one, or you can get them on ebay, the programer conects to the 10 pin header next to the crystal.

They arn't anywhere in the store, and by the looks of it the programmer is identical to the old one (searched eBay) but instead of the card slot it has the header option so you don't wear out the pads (that look like they are already shot on this one) I am going to try to rig something up, maybe just put a header off the old programmer I have. I pinned out all the connections, now I just have to pinout the other card and programmer and I should be set to go. If worse comes to worse I will buy another wafer with the 10-pin programmer and then have 2 in case something unexpected happens. The guides I have are for 5 or 7 pad wafers, not 12.

[Morpheux]

I believe you can use a slide type 16 pin programmer on that atmega by jumping pins 4 and 7 in the header.

[ynot-try]

Looking at the picture you have posted it looks like 4 of my atmega cards which are 10 pin jumperless you should have a small programmer that clips on the 10 pins on the end this then connects to a parallel cable'
I have 2 spare programmers sitting here will post a pic if require.

[ruciz]

The card came in an old IRD I picked up at a local market, I was in the cold without a programmer. Its got a 10 pin header and I found a header --> DB25 pinout so I could make my own. If that don't work I will take your suggestion and make a switch jumper from pins 4&7 on my slide card programmer (still need original functionality with my old one). I really would like to do the header method for programming so I don't wear out the pads any more than they have to be. If I get it working right I might make the receiver "cardless" and solder the atmega directly to it, then just plug in the header to the back of the IRD or something for programming.

[Morpheux]

I guess you misundertood me, you short pins 4 and 7 on the atmega header, not the programmer

[Horn069]

I have a ten pin atmega, and am trying to get it going for the new atmega fix. But after I program the card successfully with a regular 3 pin atmega programmer it won't detect in the ird. I put a jumper on the fourth set of pins away from the chip, and it seemed to program without any problems. Put the atmega in the ird and got smart card is not inserted correctly, or not authorized for ird. Programmed it with out the jumper on the 4th set, which went ok, but got the same response from the ird. Do these ten pin atmegas work with the new fix that is working, because I have a regular 3 pin atmega that worked with no problems in the same ird, which is a 3100-10 by the way. If there is a solution, I would like to give it a try in order to use the 3 pin for the ird that I have taken it out of. Thanks for anyones input on the matter.
Later.

[ruciz]

I am not sure what you are doing with the jumpers and header, but the programmer for your 10-pin atmega should rest on the pinheader and none should be jumpered, it should be a 10-pin ribbon cable connect. If your using a card-style programmer it was mentioned above that you need to jumper pins 4&7 which would be the 4th set of pins away from the atmega chip. It sounds like you are not TSOPing your IRD with the correct boxkey/IRD#/CamID/RSA key that you are programming the card with. your atmega pack should have included TSOP files along with the hex/eep or PFG file. Try Jtagging the receiver and putting on the correct model modded EEPROM/TSOP with the correct build number for your IRD on your receiver. you can edit these in with hex editors and flashedit.

[Morpheux]

did you remove the jumper before inserting the atmega on the IRD?

[Horn069]

Yes i did remove the jumper, and left it on as well. I used the same modded file for the atmega that I used before on a 3100 ird. I programmed a 3 pin atmega with the same eep, and hex file, and fuse settings and the ird kicked in with no problems. So I know it is the 10 pin card that is screwing up somehow. It says right on the card to program at 16mhz, but the jeepers that I'm using won't allow me to select the mhz frequency. I tried to use an older fix for n1, but no go. I will keep researching and find out a way to get it going. Thanks for the help, just gotta keep reading.