atmega fuse locks

[fibrechunk]

I don't know if this will help anybody but if you are having trouble with the fuse locks not clearing and have a old card slot programmer(3pin card programmer slot) it will clear and program any atmega card. Trying the alt erase would not work for me on the jumperless atmega programmer but the old card slot erased it with no problem.

[lyngatan]

i do "alternate erase" to fix that.

[fibrechunk]

I had two jumperless atmega cards that would not clear even with the alt erase. Ever time you tried to reg erase after alt it would say error. Tried tried and tried many of times with no luck. Then I thought about the old card slot programmer. I know I have programmed 10 pin cards on it and the jumpered 3 pins...I figured I might as well try it on the jumperless. Not out anything. Anyway it cleared both cards without a glitch and just thought it might help somebody else out there. TESTING is so much fun.... and a headache when it doesnt work.

[lyngatan]

Good to know. Thank's...:)

[DB]

I had the same problem and had to mod my programer to get back in.

[greypower]

Just leave the first byte at FF instead of changing it to FC, and you won't get locked out. Worked fine on my 2700.

[fibrechunk]

I learned after the fact. That is one of the draw backs of trying something right away. It is always easier to sit back and learn from other peoples mistakes or misfortune.

[yahoo]

I learned after the fact. That is one of the draw backs of trying something right away. It is always easier to sit back and learn from other peoples mistakes or misfortune.

Do not take this advice. If people think like this then charlie will win. We are suppose to test learn and teach. Thank goodness Penga does not have the same attitude. You are a bad example for this forum

Do not listen to him try things out tell us what you have learned and if you made a mistake everybody will help you and apreciate you sharing it with us and preventing somebody else from making the same mistake

[burnt_servo]

Do not take this advice. If people think like this then charlie will win. We are suppose to test learn and teach. Thank goodness Penga does not have the same attitude. You are a bad example for this forum

Do not listen to him try things out tell us what you have learned and if you made a mistake everybody will help you and apreciate you sharing it with us and preventing somebody else from making the same mistake


i sencond that people who are able too must be willing to step up to the plate .

if everyone in society took a step back and waited , we'd start to see evolution reverse it's self . or maybe the mice and cockroaches would take over .....

[The_FooL]

I did what it said in the instructions file for the n2 atmega fix but when i put it in to the ird 301.10 i get error 019 so i then tried to erase the atmega but i can't get back in i think it is because of the Lock bits FC but when i try and change that back to FF it just goes right back to FC

any ideas ?

thanks

[yahoo]

It is voltage problem I will look through my files and see if I can find a way to buffer the programmer for now there is this

I think it is from dog breath

Get your meter out(if you don't have one get one) and find where you have 5 volts D/C. Then cut and disconnect it. Make sure it is cut or you WILL fry you atmega. Then cut a USB cord about 8 inches long. VERY carfully test to see which wire has the 5 volts D/c on it. Then Solder it to you programer. You have to solder it so it doesn't go through any resisters. Basicly straight to the atmega. Then solder you ground to ground. After I did this mod I was able to do anything to the atmega I was able to do as before. Just becareful not to fry your computer. An atmega is cheaper then your computer so becareful. If you have no exprence with a meter then find some one who does and have them follow the instuctions on the web page I put up. If you did it right you will be able to do every thing you where able to do as before. Good luck and don't fry anything

[KamboD]

I find that when I use newer computers, they suck at programming the Atmega. The Eeprom fails halfway during a write. The fuses won't unlock.
I pulled out my old pentium 100 with the lpt\IDE ISA slot card. That works beautifully. I believe it has to do with newer voltage and current specs being lower for signal only.
If you have an old PC that is collecting dust, fire it up and give it a try.

[The_FooL]

Thanks Guys i got it working again :)

[udntcme]

There are some files out there that have the fuse lock in the instruction's to program your card that way. Hope everyone will read a little more so they don't program there card this way as "FC" in first of the four "Fuse byte's" FF AE 89 FF will work as well as other combination's just as long as the first byte is not "FC" this is a "Card Lock" byte.

[udntcme]

I try first if I get the error erase nag,alt erase then reg erase ,then try to change fuse gytes back to "normal" then write back. Still "no erase then I try "Junior roba" and eventually I'll find the rite combination to unlock useing these simple procedure's. May not work for all but I found a combination of these procedure's has alway's worked for me.Been locked out by the "FC" that would "Byte" my ass also.

[Clowny]

Just out of curiosity, is there a benefit to locking the atmega with FC? Like preventing an atmega killing ecm?? Maybe its good practice :P

[greypower]

Originally locked by the guys who were charging $150 to program Atmegas so people couldn't read out the info and do it themselves. Now that the files are public, locking the Atmega serves no purpose that I'm aware of. Haven't heard of an Atmega-killing ECM.

[udntcme]

No Atmega Killing ECM possible.

[squegee]

I had one (of about 20) atmega lock up on me like that and be a bitch. Set it aside for a couple of days and finally screwed with it again tonight. This may be nuts, but I reprogrammed it with TCFDII using the last N1 config I had from about 4 months ago - believe it or not it took the programming. During programming (full monty) it went right thru the bit about (erasing EEPROM) but all in all, it appears to have programmed fully. After that it would erase just fine. This may just be a fluke, but then again, if you're stuck it might help. Hope so anyway.

Peace!
-Sq

[canucklehead]

Do not take this advice. If people think like this then charlie will win. We are suppose to test learn and teach. Thank goodness Penga does not have the same attitude. You are a bad example for this forum

Do not listen to him try things out tell us what you have learned and if you made a mistake everybody will help you and apreciate you sharing it with us and preventing somebody else from making the same mistake


Easy for you to say. Some of us only have one recvr & one card to test with. If we screw it up, we are SOL til we get replacement hardware. Others, having 5 boxes & multiple cards to play with, plus friends' and inlaws' rigs to try stuff out on, have the luxury of being the first to try every latest thing to roll out.

As for me, i too followed the howto, set my fuse bit to FC (thinking, like others, that "oooh, maybe i better lock it so it wont get ECMd), and am currently fvcked (ie, unable to enter programming mode, cant find my ISO programmer).

And i guess he's also a bad example here, for telling us how he unconventionally fixed his card with an old programmer?

[canucklehead]

You know what also helps, is that your LPT cable be plugged in before you try R/W your atmega. Yeah, it seems that if you disassembled your PC 2 days ago, that when you reassembled it, you also needed to plug that cable back in.

Alt erase, Fuse back to FF (though FC might not have killed me after all), new keys, TV.

[Morpheux]

The only surefire way to unlock an atmega is using a 16 pin programmer with a 9volt battery or a power supply, or modifying yours to get more power off your pc.

you can get the programmer form $4 to $8 almost anywhere in the net.

[mary2]

The only surefire way to unlock an atmega is using a 16 pin programmer with a 9volt battery or a power supply, or modifying yours to get more power off your pc.

you can get the programmer form $4 to $8 almost anywhere in the net.

Can you expand a bit on this statement? Where can you pick up a 16 pin programmer that will allow programming of the Atmega? Thanks.
Jim

[Morpheux]

most dss sites sell them, search google for "16-pin atmega-programmer" or ask mili if he's planning on selling them, since he was selling atmegas a couple of weeks ago.

[sape1]

fool the alternate chip erase usually sets you back to ff ?? ?? ff, so this will let you in most of the time

[Dsswhiz]

write factory reset hex and eprom to it and do alternative erase 3 times, that should do the trick i had the same problem and that fix the fuse lock....

[mary2]

write factory reset hex and eprom to it and do alternative erase 3 times, that should do the trick i had the same problem and that fix the fuse lock....

No factory reset hex and eeprom here? Can you upload them for us? Thanks!

[Dsswhiz]

no problem ......will do .........

[derek5240]

This is the correct way to plug in the programmer right? It would only make sense that it would get plugged in this way.

I also am having a hard time getting into programming mode on my atmega 128 I think I have a 18mhz crystal but am not sure:

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d186/derek5240/picprogcard.jpg

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