Jtag soldering to an empty pad question

[chodog]

Anyone have any advice about this procedure? I have apparently had two of the pads #9 and #13 too hot and have empted the pads of the manufacture’s solder. Now, I can not get any solder in those cavities to stay. I intended to just melt enough of their solder to lay a wire onto the pad which worked ok with the other 4 locations. There was very little solder in these two pads to begin with. Maybe someone else has overcome this error. I would be forever grateful for some ideas. Needless to say, my soldering skills need help. I also wonder, if by some means I can get a “glob” of solder to stay in the pad, whether there will be contact enough to carry the signal. Thanks guys for any suggestions. cho

[fubr]

use a small amount of gorilla glue to hold the pad down. Ofcousre it is going to melt when you heat it up but thats OK as long as the solder sticks. after it cool then glue it again but use only small amount or you will glob it all over the board and cause a short.

the reason the solder wont stay probilay is cause the metal pad is gone and your trying to solder to fiberglass??
or your using some cheap solder that does not have flux core.

[chodog]

use a small amount of gorilla glue to hold the pad down. Ofcousre it is going to melt when you heat it up but thats OK as long as the solder sticks. after it cool then glue it again but use only small amount or you will glob it all over the board and cause a short.

the reason the solder wont stay probilay is cause the metal pad is gone and your trying to solder to fiberglass??
or your using some cheap solder that does not have flux core.




Thanks for the reply. No, used a real thin rosin core solder. Maybe I didn't make myself clear about the pad. The pad (what seems to me to be the pad....the previous dot of solder) the dot is no longer there and a hole exist, with no solder clear through the board and I can't get any to stay in there. It melts but wont leave the iron tip. I have no idea of what gorilla glue would do for this condition or even what it is. I have the board out of the receiver, so both sides are accessable. Does this explain my problem more clearly? Do you have any better solution now knowing what the condition is? Thanks again!! cho

[fubr]

ah got ya..
OK try this little trick. use a wet sponge or cloth and wipe the iron on it to clean the solder off the iron.
now put new solder on the iron, enough to cover (tint) the tip. you alway want solder on your tip and sometimes it gets old and build up old shit on it. (dross)= worthless solder leftover.
so after the new solder is on there what you want to do is use the science of soldering to your advantage.
hold iron close (real close) to but not touching the "ring" (hole).
now make a solder bridge from the hole to the iron(melt solder the heat will transfer thru the melted solder).
A. the new solder on the tip should be plenty to make the bridge.
B. If not add just a little enough to melt onto the iron and copper ring on the board.
now take your solder stack and wind off enough so you can use the roll to guide the tip of the solder to THE OTHER SIDE opposite of the iron on the pad(ring)
The heat transfered thru the solder to the copper ring will be hot enough to melt the solder on the OTHER side.
NOT the other side of the board the other side of the pad ring. So if you were looking at a circle and 12:00 was the iron you would use 6:00 to apply the fresh solder till it melt. this transfer of heat through the entire object to be soldered will cause it to bond to "more gooder"

Since you are using the thin type might have to double it up and twist it kinda like a rope.
sounds like the type solder your using is to thin for the amount of heat applied and using this bridging technique will cool it down some what.

but mainly the solder tip is pulling the solder out off the hole cause it is sticking to the old solder you have on the tip.

hope you make sense of this once again fubr is not good typing what brain is thinking.

[chodog]

Thanks furbr for the great reply and suggestion. I tried what you suggested, but I still cannot get solder to stick to what appears to be a brass ring around the hole. I tried to scrape the top of it as best I could. I also took an end wire from a 100ohm resister, put it in the hole, put some resin on it tinned it and tried to run solder down around it but it seemingly pushes it away.None is retained in the hole. This as you no doubt know is a small working space and a very small hole.(not much larger than the end of the resistor). Hole size might be 1/64" or smaller. The ring might be 1/32 OD. I'm stumped because the basic problem is getting solder to stick within the hole. If I could just bridge it, I could connect my wire. No go here as yet, but I'll keep trying all suggestions within my abilities. Thanks again for your attempt and your instructions were very clear. Got anymore tricks in your bag?

[fubr]

what model you got?
is this a fta?
follow the trace from the ring to see if it leads to another point you could tag to.
sounds like the rings are not made for solder or maybe you burned the copper off and there is none left. if so then find the trace and lightly scrape the silkscreen off it and solder directly to the trace. very tricky and only need enough solder to stick it and be careful not to lift the trace off the board by pulling the wire after you solder it.

[chodog]

Yeah it's a FTA Fortec Ultra March 2005. I don't believe I'll mess with the traces, way beyond my abilities. I really doubt that the copper is burned off though because it is still a brass color. Maybe I just need a different flux. I have been using a paste flux named "Nokorode" if that makes any difference. I suspect flux is flux. I have dabbed that in a small quanity into the hole and around it and it just will not take any solder. Well, if something else comes to mind, short of going in and disturbing a trace, please let me know. I certainly do appreciate your kindness and time in trying to solve my delemma. Thank you!! cho

[lonewolf2k]

your iron is to hot use a lo heat iron 15 watts or less and use a fine solder wire it very thin its a thick as this letter I or a little bigger and use flux an if it still goes throgh try a very very very fine sandpaper to get it to stick just one pass with the sandpaper but very very lite you can try to put a pin head on one side to stop it from passing through. hope this helps.

[fubr]

the square thing is called a pad.
what is the techincal term for the "rings"?

rings just sound stupid got to have another name

[chodog]

Hey furbr,
Thought you might be interested to know that I got this thing repaired. Took the board to a local electrical shop and a tech worked on it for 2 hours. BTW cost me 60 bucks to cure my stupidity. Again, I appreciate your help and I didn't find out what you call that thing. Pad Ring? Thanks!! cho

[fubr]

glad to hear your up...:)