Jtagging and VID mod for 301.013 ird's

[Darnat]

DP301.013 all mods v2.1a

This is for the DP301.013, both Single and Dual Flash models.

On a DP301.013 (DP3013), you can erase, but you can't program. But, thanks to QuantumPhase, ElNonoMasa, satFTA, and others, now we CAN program the DP301.013. The vid mod is real easy. You will need a 220 Ohm 1/2 watt resistor (RadioShack Part #271-1111 package of 5 @$.99 US), a SPDT toggle switch (RadioShack Part #275-635 @$3.49 US), and a 1N4742A 1-Watt Zener Diode (RadioShack Part #276-563 package of 2 @$.99 US), and some wire. I use 20 Gauge solid wire (RadioShack Part #278-1216 @$4.69 US). I have tried this mod myself, and it works flawlessly. Here's how the vid mod goes. Mount your toggle switch somewhere on the back. I put mine right over the white sticker, next to the "sat in" feed. Now, look for "sb38", it is to the right of the right tsop (or tsop trace), if you are looking at it with the fromt to your chest. Trace that cuircuit coming toward you. It will circle to the left, and end up in a spot with four othe spots. They are arranged in two rows. The top row has two spots, and the bottom has three. We will be using the one on the bottom right. This spot is difficult to solder to. Make sure you do not accidentally bridge two of them together. Let's call this "The Spot" from here out. Next, cut the trace between "sb38" and "The Spot". Your third contact point is the left side of c44. You will find it near the front, just right of center. Your fourth contact point is the ground side of c68. It is just above and left of c44. It is an outline for a capacitor, but none is present. Solder one end of the 220 ohm resistor to c44, solder the other end of the resistor to the "banded" side of the diode, and solder the "non-banded" end of the diode to c68. The point where the diode and resistor meet is your 12.5 volt source. We will call this point "12v" from here on out. The leg, of the toggle switch, next to the "sat in" feed will go to "12v". The leg in the middle will go to "sb38". And the remaining leg will go to "The Spot". I know the two outer leg wires cross each other, but this way, when the toggle is pointed toward the "sat in" feed, it is normal. When it is pointed away, it is energizing the vid circuit with 12.5 volts. You can switch them around if you want to.



Now, on with the show...

All ird's I have jtag'd, accept for the DP301.005 and DP301.010, have worked best when pin 1 was shorted to ground. The DP301.013 is not an exception. So, here is what I recommend:

Let's use a DB9 serial port (RadioShack Part #276-1537 @$1.49 US) to do our jtagging. You will also need its counterpart (RadioShack Part #276-1538 @$1.49 US), and a hood (RadioShack Part #276-1539 @$1.49 US). I used a dremel tool to cut a hole in the case of my DP3013 to mount the db9 connector in the ird. This I highly recommend.

I used the male on the IRD and the female for the jtag. This is how to build the jtag reader\writer. First, solder 5 - 100 Ohm resistors to pins 2, 3, 4, 5, and 13 of db25. Now, solder 5 - 12 inch long wires to the 5 resistors and connect as follows:

Pin 2 of db25 to pin 1 of db9
Pin 3 of db25 to pin 2 of db9
Pin 4 of db25 to pin 3 of db9
Pin 5 of db25 to pin 5 of db9
Pin 13 of db35 to pin 4 of db 9
Bridged pins 18 through 25 of db25 to bridged pins 6 through 9 of db9 (Bridge pins 6 through 9 of db9, also, solder a small wire from this bridge to the metal casing of db9, but be carefull not to leave a heaping mound of solder, or you won't be able to put the hood over the connector properly)

Now for the internal stuff.

Mount your db9 in the back of the IRD. Make sure it is mounted to the case, as this will be our ground. Looking at top of IRD motherboard, with the back of IRD to your chest, look at the 20 pads in the middle of the board. They are layed out in two rows of ten. The bottom right pad is pad 6. Pad 5 is two pads to the left (skip 1 pad). Pad 4 is one pad to the left. Pad 3 is one pad to the left. Pad 2 is one pad to the left. And pad 1 is a bit trickier. To the left of the 20 pads, you will see a crystal with a capacitor on each side. Look above the crystal to see "R87". Just above that is "R79", but R79 has no resistor. Pad 1 is the right side of R79. Use your meter if you are uncertain. Solder wires between the pads and the db9 as follows:

Pad 1 of jtag pads to pin 6 of db9 (If you mounted the db9 to the IRD, you will not need to run a wire from ground, otherwise, run a wire from ground to pin 7 of db9)
Pad 2 of jtag pads to pin 1 of db9
Pad 3 of jtag pads to pin 2 of db9
Pad 4 of jtag pads to pin 3 of db9
pad 5 of jtag pads to pin 4 of db9
Pad 6 of jtag pads to pin 5 of db9

Your IRD is now fully modded. Future releases of this "Howto" will include instructions for actually using the darn thing.

ENJOY! ;)

Birdie added: Here is a very simple Vid mod using a LM 7812 regulator, All parts are easy to find, Radio Shack even carries them.

[t160hq]

Here's a extra bit I picked up that will be helpful
to very easily get rid of the yellow card nag.
Tested and works. On the one I tested it on I
did not get 5D00 at address 7FFFFFAC but changed it to 0000 anyways and it still worked.

t160hq

------------------------

1- connect the jtag
2- do the vid mod
3- open jkeys
4- click on flash programming
5- reset the ird and click on ok
6- in the address section, write: 7FFFFFAC
7- click on read, 5D00 will appear
8- change it to 0000
9- click on program, remove the vid mod
10- enjoy!!! now you can use your atmega, roms & even your yellow card...

[Darnat]

Hey bud...how ya doin.?..
all info is appreciated here...Nice to see ya again.

[Chapster99]

Greetings chupy! Nice to see you on this site. Like my buddy Darnat said, all info you can provide is much appreciated! Thx for all your input so far!! :)

[dzungle]

I did VID Mod for my 301.013 4mb TSOP

I got Boxkey, IRD# and TSOP backup. I go to 7FFFFFAC it shows up 5D00. Change it to 0000, hit program I got the error. Tried Jkey 201, 2.9.9, 2.9.10 and Jkey301-013. All gave me same error. I earased SA49 and plug in. I got update but can not use rom10 card or Cemu.

I earased full TSOP. Reflashed it, but anytime it got 99% programed, I got error message Error writing at address 7FFFFF40 ( I believed this addess for IRD# and boxkey). I erased three times each time I reprogram TSOP and I tried more than 5 times I got the same message.

Now the Jkey read:

IRD info

IRD Model 301 - 3100
IRD# R 00 0000 0001-96
Boxkey: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
Build Cfg ?????? Boot Strap: ??????
Model ID: 10D Software: P200

Junkyard fix can fix this problem? What connection Point for 301.013 4mb Tsop IRD?


I'm crying. I tried many ways until 3:00AM could not figure out why. Anyone have any idea how to fix this. Thank you for all your helps.
:cry:

[Cantabrico]

Good Luck

[Cantabrico]

Good luck

[dzungle]

I used BufferJtag, I did VID Mod. Try to reprogram Tsop (full). At 99% Tsop programed, I still get error message Error writing at address 7FFFFF40. It seems the TSOP is blocked at this address

IRD info

IRD Model 301 - 3100
IRD# R 00 0000 0001-96
Boxkey: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
Build Cfg ?????? Boot Strap: ??????
Model ID: 10D Software: P200

Junkyard fix can fix this problem? What connection Point for 301.013 4mb Tsop IRD? Would expert here give me a clue. Thank you for all helps.
:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

[dzungle]

I got it work now. Thank you for all your helps.

I'm so dump. I flip the switch wrong side. It should be opposite with the VID.

[coconutlover]

ok I have a DP301-013 Ird with 1 tsop but with a ROM 10 card. I have the old DLock. but recently chuck has been ecm every one with that lock is there any way to erease MY Tsop and let it updates like we do with Model 301.010 or do I have to keep on Jumping it that sb39 and sb 40 still?

[petesapie]

Can't recognize mfg code returned are FE0A/2540 for flashfield and JEDEC.
Unit has 0000001 ECM Box and IRD # reads OK Can't get into program mode.

any suggestions?

[sukh77]

I think the Sb38 is SB35, With the jtag setup here I guess I don't need to buy a buffered jtag or am I wrong. And the serial port setup will work with the JKEYS 2.9.10 right. I have pics for the vidmod if anyone wants it, also you can download it in the echostar files.

[sukh77]

The jkeys 2.9.9 worked for the 301.13. I did the vid mod. Trying to fix the 349 error.
CLICKED ON FLASH PROGRAMMING PULLED THE PLUG, PLUGGED BACK IN PRESSED OK, READ ADDRESS 7FFFFFAC, IT READ D500, CHANGED IT TO 0000, GOT ERROR FLASH OPERATION COMPLETED WITH INCORRECT DATA READ BACK. IT ERASED sa49 OK. ANYBODY KNOW HOW TO FIX THIS PROBLEM.

[sukh77]

I got it to work. Then got ECM'd error 153. I will post all steps I used soon as I get my unit back up working. thanks for everyones help.

[ryanloon]

i did all the above procedure on my dp301.013. I turned on my reciever and did my jtag as mentioned above. Receiver stays on till now. As soon as i open Jkeys2.9.9
receiver turns off and in Device id it shows 0xdb636db6. Idont know where i went wrong checked all connections 3-4 times. Please help.

[sukh77]

I worked on it from top with 10+10 pads. So use the picture on the left. Start from Bottom right there it says 19 below it, skip one pad the solder the other 4 to the left of that. You have to have pad 1 grounded. Did you make your own jtag like in vid mod for 301.13 sticky or did you buy one.

[ryanloon]

i did everything from above written method.

i used other jtag which i had and that reads

device id 0x1D405041

Device STi5518MVB-X

IRD Model 301-3100

IRD# 0 0000 00001-96

Box KeY FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF

Build Cfg DASA BOOT STRAP XXXX

Model Id 10E Software P200

Thank You for helping...

[munro_d44]

i did everything from above written method.

i used other jtag which i had and that reads

device id 0x1D405041

Device STi5518MVB-X

IRD Model 301-3100

IRD# 0 0000 00001-96

Box KeY FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF

Build Cfg DASA BOOT STRAP XXXX

Model Id 10E Software P200

Thank You for helping...

Click on the 'receiver model' drop down box in jKeys & choose '301 single flash'. That should get your boxkey & ird #s for ya.

[ryanloon]

there is no 301 selecion. Has 301-3100 and i did that.

I have jkeys 2_9_9 and 2_9_11

[munro_d44]

Version 2.9.9 & on should have the option (I know my version does). I just used 2.9.9 last weekend to get into a corrupted .013 when other versions wouldn't. It has the '301-3100, single flash' option. What you can do is to add the .def line to your folder (the definitions file) in your version if it's not there. Look in yours & see if it has this line.

IRD, 17, "301-3100 (Single Flash)", 7, 3, 1, 1, 2, 2, 0x7FFFFF40, 0x7FFFFF44, 0x7FFFBFE0, 0x7FFFFFA8, 0x7FFDFFF4, 0x7FFDFFF8, "10E", 3, 4
IRDFlash, 17, "Flash 1(U12-M29W320DT)", 0x22CA, 0x7FC00000, 0x400000, 2, 2, 0

If it doesn't, just add it to the list. Make sure it's added in the #17 location. If something is already there, delete it (if you don't need it) & replace it w/ the line above.

[munro_d44]

What is your build config, bootstrap, etc.? I've found it easier to use a 'friendly' build (like DAHD, 16AB bootstrap) & just flash that to the box. Works for me everytime. :)

Let me know if ya need the flash & I'll send it to ya.

[munro_d44]

File is on the way. :)

This is a public dump of my box, so you'll need to edit the boxkey & ird # to match yours (don't really have to, but I always do...up to you). Make sure you check the 'Fix CRC' box when you're done & save as personal dump. Then reopen the saved file to make sure the App area CS matches the Proper App area CS. If it does, then flash it to your box.

[munro_d44]

I've used the DAHD (DAHA) build to flash to other boxes w/ different builds (DAID, DASD & others) w/ great success. It should work w/ yours.

Does the green power light come on? Have you tried to read the box w/ jKeys since you flashed it?

[munro_d44]

Sorry...I forgot to tell ya that when you change the build, you also need to flash a virgin eeprom of the same build. Use FlashEdit to create a virgin eeprom using the flash I sent...then use the eeprom programming function of jKeys to flash the new eeprom to your box. That should get ya going. :)

[greythorn3]

Hi im very new to this and have a DP301.013 single chip model, i installed the digital lock tonight universal-gold in my IRD. but im kind of confused about the diagram i had, it shows that your supposed to do somthing to the eprom that is 8 pins i believe, lift up one of them and solder it to the center pole of the switch, could somone please help me with this step, i want to get this finished and build the vidmod and jtag so i can start testing. also when i try it now without the eprom tampered with, the power light on the digital lock lights up but if i put it in lock the lock light doesnt come on, could this be because i need to alter the eprom still by soldering onto it and lifting the prong?


Ray
Alaska

any help would be greatly appreciated.

[munro_d44]

Eeprom locking is usually optional. Charlie hasn't made any moves against eeproms in a while, but it doesn't hurt to have it protected. Only thing is...VERY delicate operation lifting pin 7 of that little bugger. The leg can break off easily if you're not VERY careful. It helps to keep the soldering iron tip on the leg while lifting ...it you keep it hot it'll usually do OK. Don't try to bend it cold. If you have a lock design that incorporates eeprom locking within the lock circuitry, they do well. If they tell you to add a seperate switch for it, I wouldn't worry about it.

[george123]

I have just received some hardware from milli..... a buffered jtag, magic card and programmer.... The first problem that I have encountered is attempting to read the
box and secret key data from a model dp301T - 013 - IT IS THE SINGLE TSOP VERSION.

I am using jkeys 2-9-11 and I have cut the bottom panel of the ird to expose the jtag
port - I am not able to read anything - I just get unknown device

I then attempted read the box and secret keys from a 2700 with the buffered jtag..
no succes , I can read it fine with my old unbuffered jtag . I then tried to read the
301 013 ird with the unbuffered jtag .... the result was unreconised device ....

this is really two questions - can I get the box key etc from the 301 - 013 with an
unbuffered jtag if the buffered one is defective (assuming that I am using it properly)

If the buffered jtag is good, why wont it recognise the 2700 .....

I am assuming that from the bottom the jtag port pinout 0n the 301 - 013 (9 pin pad)
is the same as the 2700 (7 pin pad) both starting with pin 1 at the left end.

Some help please ..... george123

[mili]

I'd appreciate some nice photos showing the connection points and parts so I can make a proper How To on the VID Mod.

mili

[ki55tory]

I'd appreciate some nice photos showing the connection points and parts so I can make a proper How To on the VID Mod.

mili

Please make the guide using a Voltage Regulator. The newbies will luv it!

ki55tory

[mili]

I marked what I think it SB38 with a black marker. Is it it? Also I cannot figure what to cut and where. If you could edit this picture to show exactly where to solder/cut that would be great.

mili

[sukh77]

I Have this setup. Working fine. Hope this is what you are wanting

[mili]

So I solder the resistor to C44's right leg on this pictue, then the unbanded end of diode to C68?
Please clarify exactly what gets soldered where.

mili

[sukh77]

I have used this guide. I am not sure where I had downloaded it from. For vid mod and Jtag. For some reason I cannot attach file. I will edit this later.

[mili]

Please upload it at http://www.dssftp.com/filedownload/upload.php

mili

[sukh77]

uploaded it there.

[mili]

I see it, will look into it tonight, thanks.

mili

[coolwind]

Help Please
A Freind jtaged 3 recivers for me & no all are searching for SAT & Get No Signal What could be WRONG Did he damage them or is something just curupt now ??????
Coolwind
Thanks for any help as I need all I can get !
I can hook a reciver not touched to my dish & get Signal

[skinerd]

Completed a VID mod and successfully jtagged a single chip 310-013, no problems.
Am going to try to find a 6 pin phone line connector to replace the 2 pin one on there to make a phone line jtag connector, that makes a lot of sense for easy jtagging.

Note, I did not have to jump pin1 to ground. No need for link mode either, which I don't understand, cause this is a 5518 processor, but heck it worked flawlessly, (except my jtag didn't work, no ideas why, mili's buffered one did).

[JT]

Mili's bjtag is perfect for Charlie. I love the way it comes with that little plastic pin holder.

[1liter]

After many hours of reading I managed to Vidmod and Jtag the DP301.013. I'm not sure if I did the Vidmod correctly but I follow your instruction to the tee.

Start Jkey by D2, It detected my IRD as 301-013 and it show valid BoxKeys,
Build Cfg: DANA
bootstrap: 17BB
Model ID: 10E
Software: P057

The problem is when I click on Flash Programming:

In the Single Location Programming Address it display 7FC00000 not 7FFFFFAC and Data is blank that should display 5D00.

When I click on Read with Single Location Programming Address it display 7FC00000 the Data display FFFFFFFF.

I also change Single Location Programming Address 7FFFFFAC and Data to 0000, when I click on Program buttom it give me a error " Flash timeout (DQ5 set) and other error after push OK as follow: "Error Programming specified data"

Please help!

I like to use this IRD with ROM3 rev 366














DP301.013 all mods v2.1a

This is for the DP301.013, both Single and Dual Flash models.

On a DP301.013 (DP3013), you can erase, but you can't program. But, thanks to QuantumPhase, ElNonoMasa, satFTA, and others, now we CAN program the DP301.013. The vid mod is real easy. You will need a 220 Ohm 1/2 watt resistor (RadioShack Part #271-1111 package of 5 @$.99 US), a SPDT toggle switch (RadioShack Part #275-635 @$3.49 US), and a 1N4742A 1-Watt Zener Diode (RadioShack Part #276-563 package of 2 @$.99 US), and some wire. I use 20 Gauge solid wire (RadioShack Part #278-1216 @$4.69 US). I have tried this mod myself, and it works flawlessly. Here's how the vid mod goes. Mount your toggle switch somewhere on the back. I put mine right over the white sticker, next to the "sat in" feed. Now, look for "sb38", it is to the right of the right tsop (or tsop trace), if you are looking at it with the fromt to your chest. Trace that cuircuit coming toward you. It will circle to the left, and end up in a spot with four othe spots. They are arranged in two rows. The top row has two spots, and the bottom has three. We will be using the one on the bottom right. This spot is difficult to solder to. Make sure you do not accidentally bridge two of them together. Let's call this "The Spot" from here out. Next, cut the trace between "sb38" and "The Spot". Your third contact point is the left side of c44. You will find it near the front, just right of center. Your fourth contact point is the ground side of c68. It is just above and left of c44. It is an outline for a capacitor, but none is present. Solder one end of the 220 ohm resistor to c44, solder the other end of the resistor to the "banded" side of the diode, and solder the "non-banded" end of the diode to c68. The point where the diode and resistor meet is your 12.5 volt source. We will call this point "12v" from here on out. The leg, of the toggle switch, next to the "sat in" feed will go to "12v". The leg in the middle will go to "sb38". And the remaining leg will go to "The Spot". I know the two outer leg wires cross each other, but this way, when the toggle is pointed toward the "sat in" feed, it is normal. When it is pointed away, it is energizing the vid circuit with 12.5 volts. You can switch them around if you want to.



Now, on with the show...

All ird's I have jtag'd, accept for the DP301.005 and DP301.010, have worked best when pin 1 was shorted to ground. The DP301.013 is not an exception. So, here is what I recommend:

Let's use a DB9 serial port (RadioShack Part #276-1537 @$1.49 US) to do our jtagging. You will also need its counterpart (RadioShack Part #276-1538 @$1.49 US), and a hood (RadioShack Part #276-1539 @$1.49 US). I used a dremel tool to cut a hole in the case of my DP3013 to mount the db9 connector in the ird. This I highly recommend.

I used the male on the IRD and the female for the jtag. This is how to build the jtag reader\writer. First, solder 5 - 100 Ohm resistors to pins 2, 3, 4, 5, and 13 of db25. Now, solder 5 - 12 inch long wires to the 5 resistors and connect as follows:

Pin 2 of db25 to pin 1 of db9
Pin 3 of db25 to pin 2 of db9
Pin 4 of db25 to pin 3 of db9
Pin 5 of db25 to pin 5 of db9
Pin 13 of db35 to pin 4 of db 9
Bridged pins 18 through 25 of db25 to bridged pins 6 through 9 of db9 (Bridge pins 6 through 9 of db9, also, solder a small wire from this bridge to the metal casing of db9, but be carefull not to leave a heaping mound of solder, or you won't be able to put the hood over the connector properly)

Now for the internal stuff.

Mount your db9 in the back of the IRD. Make sure it is mounted to the case, as this will be our ground. Looking at top of IRD motherboard, with the back of IRD to your chest, look at the 20 pads in the middle of the board. They are layed out in two rows of ten. The bottom right pad is pad 6. Pad 5 is two pads to the left (skip 1 pad). Pad 4 is one pad to the left. Pad 3 is one pad to the left. Pad 2 is one pad to the left. And pad 1 is a bit trickier. To the left of the 20 pads, you will see a crystal with a capacitor on each side. Look above the crystal to see "R87". Just above that is "R79", but R79 has no resistor. Pad 1 is the right side of R79. Use your meter if you are uncertain. Solder wires between the pads and the db9 as follows:

Pad 1 of jtag pads to pin 6 of db9 (If you mounted the db9 to the IRD, you will not need to run a wire from ground, otherwise, run a wire from ground to pin 7 of db9)
Pad 2 of jtag pads to pin 1 of db9
Pad 3 of jtag pads to pin 2 of db9
Pad 4 of jtag pads to pin 3 of db9
pad 5 of jtag pads to pin 4 of db9
Pad 6 of jtag pads to pin 5 of db9

Your IRD is now fully modded. Future releases of this "Howto" will include instructions for actually using the darn thing.

ENJOY! ;)

[munro_d44]

After many hours of reading I managed to Vidmod and Jtag the DP301.013. I'm not sure if I did the Vidmod correctly but I follow your instruction to the tee.

Start Jkey by D2, It detected my IRD as 301-013 and it show valid BoxKeys,
Build Cfg: DANA
bootstrap: 17BB
Model ID: 10E
Software: P057

The problem is when I click on Flash Programming:

In the Single Location Programming Address it display 7FC00000 not 7FFFFFAC and Data is blank that should display 5D00.

When I click on Read with Single Location Programming Address it display 7FC00000 the Data display FFFFFFFF.

I also change Single Location Programming Address 7FFFFFAC and Data to 0000, when I click on Program buttom it give me a error " Flash timeout (DQ5 set) and other error after push OK as follow: "Error Programming specified data"

Please help!

I like to use this IRD with ROM3 rev 366

Have you grounded pad 1 to the case? This is a must do for these boxes.

[spike696969]

The directions say that I should measure 25-30volts between c44
and ground on a DP301 receiver. I tried 2 DP301 receivers, and both measured
~54 volts. They can't both have problems, so do you have any suggestions?
After I add the resistor it measures ~23 volts. Also, after the mod, if I put a voltmeter across the switch, with the switch on one side I measure ~54 volts between left and center, and if I flip the switch, ~23 volts on center and right . What am I doing wrong? Also, I soldered to SB35, but some instructions say to solder to SB38. Help!

[spike696969]

The directions say that I should measure 25-30volts between c44
and ground on a DP301 receiver. I tried 2 DP301 receivers, and both measured
~54 volts. They can't both have problems, so do you have any suggestions?
After I add the resistor it measures ~23 volts. Also, after the mod, if I put a voltmeter across the switch, with the switch on one side I measure ~54 volts between left and center, and if I flip the switch, ~23 volts on center and right . What am I doing wrong? Also, I soldered to SB35, but some instructions say to solder to SB38. Help!

[sukh77]

You need to have vidmod when you first run jkeys
Click on flash programming and when you get the warning message unplug the IRD and turn the Vidmod off and plug in the IRD within 3 sec. click OK on the Warning message. and you should be able to change the address 7fffffac to 0000.
Also make sure you have the dlock in the unlock position.

[spike696969]

> Your directions say early on that I should measure 25-30volts between c44
and
> ground on a DP301 receiver. I tried 2 DP301 receivers, and both measured
~54
> volts. They can't both have problems, so do you have any suggestions?
After
> I add the resistor it measures ~23 volts. Help!
>

[1liter]

Have you grounded pad 1 to the case? This is a must do for these boxes.

I did grounded pad 1 to the case but I had to remove it because IRD won't power up with pad 1 connected to case.

Anyhow I reconnect pad 1 to case and now Jkey seem to program 7FFFFFCA with Data 0000 however I have to have disconnect pad 1 from case to power up IRD.

Anyhow the problem now is I'm still getting the same error -020 "The smart card curretly inserted is not valid fro this receiver" that I received before Vidmod/Jtag.

I'm try to use this IRD with ROM3 ver 366

Any idea?

[1liter]

I marked what I think it SB38 with a black marker. Is it it? Also I cannot figure what to cut and where. If you could edit this picture to show exactly where to solder/cut that would be great.

mili

Hi Mili, can you confirm that the image you have attached is Single TSOP.

Thanks

[sukh77]

Spike check out the guide for VIDmod at www.bellexpress.vu in how to directions. nice pictures.
1Liter Look at the pic posted by me right after Mili. SB35 not SB38. Also the address is incorrect it is 7FFFFFAC not 7FFFFFCA. Also when lookin at the pic you can confirm for yourself that it is a single tsop all you see is one chip. Do you leave the jtag connected when you try to power it up that might be the reason that it doesn't power up. I leave my ground where it is just unplug the jtag.

[munro_d44]

I did grounded pad 1 to the case but I had to remove it because IRD won't power up with pad 1 connected to case.

Anyhow I reconnect pad 1 to case and now Jkey seem to program 7FFFFFCA with Data 0000 however I have to have disconnect pad 1 from case to power up IRD.

Anyhow the problem now is I'm still getting the same error -020 "The smart card curretly inserted is not valid fro this receiver" that I received before Vidmod/Jtag.

I'm try to use this IRD with ROM3 ver 366

Any idea?


Grounding pad 1 stops the processor from interferring w/ the flash read/write. The box will not power on ...normal. Only leave pad 1 grounded during read/write, not when viewing tv.

[munro_d44]

The directions say that I should measure 25-30volts between c44
and ground on a DP301 receiver. I tried 2 DP301 receivers, and both measured
~54 volts. They can't both have problems, so do you have any suggestions?
After I add the resistor it measures ~23 volts. Also, after the mod, if I put a voltmeter across the switch, with the switch on one side I measure ~54 volts between left and center, and if I flip the switch, ~23 volts on center and right . What am I doing wrong? Also, I soldered to SB35, but some instructions say to solder to SB38. Help!


Make sure your voltmeter is set to DC volts when taking readings.

[JT]

Not all 301.13's require the vid mod. Sounds like you got lucky with that one 00. I'm pretty sure that I saw the 12V power source labeled on the vid mod instructions, but don't quote me on that. I have never done the vid mod. I also got lucky with my 301 and didn't have to do it.

[munro_d44]

I see that the Vid Mod is required to allow the use of a Rom 2/3/10, correct me if I am wrong. But I have a 301.013 that has a Rom 10 that came subbed with it. Do I still need to do this mod in order to Jtag?

Has anyone looked on the 301.013s board to see if there is a point with 12Volts that will eliminate the need for the diodes and resistors.

I've had two .013's w/ rom 10 cams...not unusual at all. Vidmod only needed on boxes w/ bootstrap versions above 16AB.

[1liter]

Spike check out the guide for VIDmod at www.bellexpress.vu in how to directions. nice pictures.
1Liter Look at the pic posted by me right after Mili. SB35 not SB38. Also the address is incorrect it is 7FFFFFAC not 7FFFFFCA. Also when lookin at the pic you can confirm for yourself that it is a single tsop all you see is one chip. Do you leave the jtag connected when you try to power it up that might be the reason that it doesn't power up. I leave my ground where it is just unplug the jtag.

Thanks for pointing that out, I did got the address

[munro_d44]

Hi guys
I am having a problem getting getting into the flash mode in jkeys. I have a single tsop 301.13, I did the vid mod version 2 on maestra and verified that i was getting 12v the sb35 point when the switch is activated.when i start up jkeys i get the reciever info when i switch to single tsop on the ird model. i go into the flash menu flip the switch so it is active,power down the receiver plug it in and hit the ok button. I get a error stating the flash codes returned are not recognized by jkeys. Mfg/device codes returned are 1/3130(JEDEC) and 103/3130(flashfile) anyone know what this error means? Thanks in advance

Try grounding pad 1 during your read/write sessions...usually fixes the problem. Best place to do it is on the underside board pads. Solder a wire to pad 1 & run it out the back of the case. Ground it to one of the case screws. Good luck!

[BirdieMod]

From Maestra heh? Was that the one I posted vid mod, Uses a 7812 regultor, Good version of the mod and works well.
2 tips for ya,
First, On 301's keep you jtag cable very short, The shorter the less errors.
Second, Look at the build config, DAMA and DASA have anti vid mod crap and are very difficult. Stick with DALA,DANA Builds to save you from problems, The anti models are just as big a pain to ecm repair later also, They will not go into programming mode easily and the power light blinks at you pissing you off even more. If you do get in, Erase the flash and dump a DAHA DALA or DANA one in it.

[BirdieMod]

I will tell you that DAMD and DASA builds do not easily enter program mode to make the edit.
Lose the resister and zener diode and drop $1.49 at scrap shack for a lm7812 voltage regulator instead, Then use a Quad mode Jtag with the jumper on it set to write with a laptop running on battery, Only way I can get into the program mode on DAMD and DASA, Now you have the secret....

[spike696969]

Could someone please connect a voltmeter across the vidmod switch poles, left and center, and center and right, and let me know what the correct readings are? I know one is ~12v DC, but what should the other one read? Thanks.

[spike696969]

Also, I only get 11.4 v DC on my vidmod, with the switch turned on. Is that sufficient, or do you have any suggestions? I'm struggling with getting a JKEYS reading, and am trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong. Thanks.

[munro_d44]

Here's a pic I found that may help w/ the DPDT switch hook up for those using the diode/resistor method.

[shady]

Hi Guys...I have done the vid mod on my single TSOP 301.013 and then attached my new Buffed jtag for milli. With the vidmod on and then the IRD powered up...Jkeys opened and all I get is device unknown 0xFFFFFFFF. Ground clip is securly attached....Pin 1 on the back side is jumped (I have treid it both ways). All solder points are great...This is my first experience with a jtag...Converting from dave please help.

[shady]

Follow up from my post above. with the vidmod on I am getting 13.37 volts to the SB35 attachment point...is this within allowable limits or might that be my problem?

Any help is appreciated.

[sukh77]

that might be the problem. If everything is correct it should be little bit less then 12V.

[shady]

Any Idea how to further reduce the voltage on that...Like maybe a bigger resistor. Man I,m stuck...Checked everything over and over ...redid everything three times. I'm sure I'm doing something really stupid but cant figure it out.

[sukh77]

Double check the resistor value. Look at the pics at www.bellexpress.vu/vidmod.html

[shady]

Everything is exactly as that shows and the exact part numbers were used.

[shady]

I found on the diagram just up from these posts that they show a 330 ohm resistor instead of a 220. I think I'll run to the shack before they close and try one out.

I 'll post my results...Good or bad.

[shady]

Well...heres the update. The increased resistor size did decrease the voltage down to 12.4v at 560ohms. However that wasnt my problem. My problem was simply that I needed fresher batteries in the JTAG. They werent dead just not so fresh. I changed them and everything came alive. Vid mod works perfect...Jtag works perfect....Magic card couldnt be easier. At long last....the porn is back! Thanks Milli!

[sukh77]

Yup ur not the first probably shady. I Overlooked something simple also when I was doing my first vidmod. I didn't know your jtag had batteries.

[BirdieMod]

12.1 to 12.5 works best. Also I am understanding one of these vid mod diagrams has the wiring to the switch wrong. You want 12 volts to sb 35 flipped one way on the switch and to complete the cut tracer the other way. SB 35 wire should be center on the switch.

This is much better with the 7812 regulator from scrap shack.

[shady]

Now that I am watching TV successfully. Does my reciever (301.013) need a TSOP or EEprom lock? Since I have already shown yall how smart I can be....whats the harm in asking dumb questions?

If my TSOP needs this Vidmod switch for me to write to it...then isnt it already locked with the vidmod turned off?

[munro_d44]

that might be the problem. If everything is correct it should be little bit less then 12V.

I beg to differ. You need at least 12 volts for the vid to work properly. Usually 12 to 12.5 is what you want. Any less & you will have problems.

shady,

The vidmod will not protect the flash. All it does is allow to write to the protected sectors. You will need one of the programable locks to prevent writes to the flash. Check out oddcircuits.com for the best locks.

[shady]

So when I open jkeys on the initial screen where it says "Save Mem" Does that make a complete backup of everything or do I need to save something more?

[shoes]

i have done the 301-013 vid mod and am up and playing i used the diodo method that is the only way i know how to do it . it is playing with a rom 2 card but i have to leave the mod on or my receiver will not power up any sugestions would be nice. but it works fine with switch on

[sukh77]

Were u trying to spell a dildo or was that a diode

[shoes]

ha ha diode hit wrong key

[BirdieMod]

"Were u trying to spell a dildo or was that a diode"
LMFAO!!!!!!!!!!! You guys rock..

A question earlier in the thread. You have to enter 7FFFFFAC in the single address line, Then read it.

I'll get my file together here and upload a "Real" vid mod with the 7812 to Mili's DSSFTP.COM files section for all.

[shoes]

can't no one answer my ?

[sukh77]

shoes if it is working fine why mess with it. But You could have attached the wires incorrectly and you think it is on but it is off. or just mounted the switch upside down. Hope you get what I am saying

[shoes]

okay here is the run down
i used a 330-ohm resistor,12-volt zener diode(not dildo haha),and a dpdt switch.
looking at the back of the switch there are 6 places to connect to on the left side i have connect 2 wires top and bottom to the banded side of the diode and the unbanded side to c68.the middle top is connected to the resistor wich is connected to c44. oh ya i did test them with a tester and got 30 v before and then tested it with the diode and resistor then i got 12 v so far so good. now back to the switch the middle bottom is connected to sb 35 then the far right bottom is connected to sb 5 the top right is empty. i also cut the trace after test point sb 35. then i hooked up my jtag changed 5d00 to 0000. still no problems. but the only way i can get the reciever to power up is if the switch is on the diode side other wise it will not turn on. seems to be working fine fliped that way but i have read that it will burn up the receiver. i hope this gives u some more insight on what is going on.

thanks for any help

[shoes]

tested the ohms between the diode and the resistor got 10 then checked them at the switch got 9

[shoes]

how do i go about this? and i used a dpdt switch u speak of a dbl throw switch

[BirdieMod]

The circuit has to be completed for the tracer that was cut for the receiver to run normal. If you edited the tsop and reg card works, You can take the diode( Not Dildo lol ) resiter out even now. You prob won't need it ever again unless you want to do a full reflash.

[shoes]

if i flip the switch over where the diode is not getting contact than my reciever will not power up.

[shoes]

could i connect the wire coming from the resistor to sb35 and sb5 alltogether and take the switch out

[coolwind]

Well tell me if i am wrong their is a serial # break on the 301-13 that dont have to have the VIA Mod Right or wrong !
I just picked up 1 today & read it in jkeys & it has no IRD or Boxkeys to it !
I have till yet been able to return a reciver like this to a working reciver Have read & read & get NO where This is the worst thing i have ever dealt with ! I have tried GND on pin 1 & it dont work SO Just whats the Real Deal here Looks like I may as well TRASH them & forget it on them
Thanks to those who have tried to help but it looks like a lost battle here !
Maybe Dave will be back soon as i am lost in Dish world
Coolwind/HOTWIND as this CRAZY !

[BirdieMod]

Shoes, I think you have your switch wired wrong.
Coolwind, I just uploaded Jkeys 301C to DSSFTP files, Use that and you should get a read fine.

[coolwind]

Thanks for the up load but still same errors as the other jkeys maybe my pc
Coolwind/hotwind per inside joke LOL
Dish is just a :asshole2: to me
You all have a good one today

[BirdieMod]

Prob a ground loop issue then, Use a laptop.

[shoes]

i have 2 working but i don't fill comfertable with them. is there any way that my switch could be to big? what size switch di u recomend?

[sukh77]

shoes if you have it working why are u so concerned about why it is working backwords. If it works don't fuck with man. Also I don't know which guide u used but Darnat says to use the SPDT switch. I used spdt switch and works fine. But I would just leave it and not worry about it if it working.

[shoes]

u are correct duckworthy on spdt. but if the switch is going to the diode side then ain't they a possiblity of burning up the tesop? the only differance in that switch and the one that i used is mine is a double pole and u used a single pole.

where could i get some more info on this mod the more i read the better i will understand it. i will leave them alone for know. but i don't want to do all 10 that i need to do and send them out for them to return as comet toast.no what i mean.

[shoes]

oh i forgot to say that i have a 145,000 sqf home with 15 bedrooms i just couldn't afford to buy 15 tv so wright now all i got is 10.

[Ne007]

Is there any good pics of this "making a jtag" method.

Pics that actually go along with the steps listed here.

Also...is 24 gage wire going to be ok with this? I do have ALOT of IDE cable wire I think would work.

[coolwind]

Hello Fellow Members
If your having the 349 error with you vidmod You need to use the LM7812 voltage regulator As I have done several now with the Regulator in units with not a Prob @ all But with out the VR in them I spend 2 days tring to make a RCA 301-13 work So spend the Extra 2 bucks & save on the Head aches !
If i could up load a Pic on it i would
Coolwind

[grigz]

wooooot!!! installed my first vid mod using this thread and the vid mod how to i found in the files section,and it works like a charm...just wanted to say thanks fellas for the great info...it really help me out alot!!!!!

[sukh77]

Try click on flash programming, unplug power, turn vidmod off, plug back in click ok on warning message within 3 sec., then try to change the 7FFFFFAC to 0000.

[polydor]

i just got this reciver and when i opened it i notice it had a pad to connect an ac3 optical output does anyone know how to convert this reciver to dolby digital
Thanx

[morningstar]

I've got a couple of DP301-013's & would like to do the viv mod, can anyone tell me if they've gotten these parts needed from digi-key in Canada?
I'm having no luck in trying to get these 12 volt 1-watt zener diode & the 220 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. I've done a few diff mod's, but still have trouble getting the needed parts. I tried the Radio shack.ca but the part #'s in the how to don't show up, I guess they must be diff # in Canada than in USA
There's no electronic stores in my area, so i have to order them
Any help is appreciated!

[munro_d44]

I've got a couple of DP301-013's & would like to do the viv mod, can anyone tell me if they've gotten these parts needed from digi-key in Canada?
I'm having no luck in trying to get these 12 volt 1-watt zener diode & the 220 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. I've done a few diff mod's, but still have trouble getting the needed parts. I tried the Radio shack.ca but the part #'s in the how to don't show up, I guess they must be diff # in Canada than in USA
There's no electronic stores in my area, so i have to order them
Any help is appreciated!

I'm sure Digikey would have all the needed parts. If not, try Mouser or Jameco.

[polydor]

I've got a couple of DP301-013's & would like to do the viv mod, can anyone tell me if they've gotten these parts needed from digi-key in Canada?
I'm having no luck in trying to get these 12 volt 1-watt zener diode & the 220 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. I've done a few diff mod's, but still have trouble getting the needed parts. I tried the Radio shack.ca but the part #'s in the how to don't show up, I guess they must be diff # in Canada than in USA
There's no electronic stores in my area, so i have to order them
Any help is appreciated!

Digi-Key Part Number 1N4742ADICT-ND Description DIODE ZENER 12V 1W 5% DO-41
Digi-Key Part Number P220BBCT-ND Description RES 220 OHM CARBON FILM 1/2W 5%
Digi-Key Part Number 360-1079-ND Description SWITCH TOGGLE SPDT 6A 5PCS

[morningstar]

THANK YOU!!!
I'll get them ordered, Let you know how it goes :)

[polydor]

I just finished the vid mod and noticed that the switch is an (on off on) type of switch insted of what i think should be (on off)
could someone clarify this
What should the switch be doing in terms of current flow
Thanx
UPDATE!!!!
1.when i put the switch on the ON position towards the center of the reciver the reciver works
2.when it is in the OFF position the reciver does not power on
3.and when it is in the ON postition towards the outside of the reciver, the reciver works
so I am assuming that senerio 1 is the VID MOD ON
and senerio 3 is the VID MOD OFF and normal IRD functioning.
hope this makes sense.
Thanx Again for any help

[polydor]

just one more thing how do i know for sure witch side of the switch is Vidmod
thanx

[morningstar]

I need help!! I've done the viv mod, all was well, then partway through the save memory ,the laptop went into hibernation & I lost everything! Now the receiver won't power up, jkeys says not recognized.
DP 301-013 DAID build

[sukh77]

go to the files section find your build or find something that starts with DA, You will find DAHA or DAPA I think they should be ok. I converted DAID to DAPA.

[polydor]

you will have to measure the voltage, read this entire thread. depends on what guide you followed.

unfortunatly i don't have a volt meter so i have attached a picture of what i have
if someone could tell me which senerio (A or B) is normal and witch is the VID MOD

[beercan22]

Hi Y'all. I need to make sure how many TSOPs I have in my IRDs. All of my 301.013s look to have only one at location U12 . It looks like there is a spot for another one at U10 ? U10 is empty on my boards. I show two flash areas. Can you help me figure this out? Thanks!!!

[sukh77]

Polydor - A is regular circuit B is vidmod. It's not very hard to tell you must not know electronics.

[polydor]

Polydor - A is regular circuit B is vidmod. It's not very hard to tell you must not know electronics.

No I don't know electonics
but i thought that and still think that
"A" is vidmod
and "B" is regular according to the vid mod guide in the download section
sooner or later i will figure this out
Thanx

[skinerd]

No I don't know electonics
but i thought that and still think that
"A" is vidmod
and "B" is regular according to the vid mod guide in the download section
sooner or later i will figure this out
Thanx

Don't use the resistor/diode method, a 7812 voltage regulator is a more reliable and stable, voltage source, and it is no harder to do than the diode/resistor method, actually easier to do. Applying 25+ volts to a 12 volt zener constantly is not exactly cool.

Using the diagram you posted I can pencil in the hook up if you need it.

[octoped]

shoes,

I have been reading your posts. I don't think you have wired the VidMod correctly. Your posts clearly shows that you are confused. And what is SB5 (a ground) doing in your connect list? It has no place in this mod.
Use a SPDT switch OR just use half of your DPDT switch (the top half 3 terminals).
The center goes directly to SB35.
One end goes to the "spot" that was cutoff from SB35.
the other end goes to 12V source (the cathode band end of the Zener diode or Pin 3 of the 7812 regulator.
That's it. In words, the switch either connects SB35 to the "spot" that was cutoff, or it connects SB35 to the 12V source.
In normal operation, the switch should connect SB35 to the spot that was previously cutoff.

polydor,
No the switch is a SPDT (single pole dbl throw) - NOT an ON-OFF-ON switch. See above. In no case should the center (SB35) be left floating.

BirdieMod,
The 220 ohm resistor in the 7812 setup is on the wrong side. It should be on the input (Pin 1) side, NOT the regulated output side. This keeps the output steady at 12v in spite of load changes.

Darnat, munro, chupy or Birdie,
One of you ought to acknowledge that SB35 is CORRECT and SB38 is WRONG. I have seen only 3 other posters point this out in this thread, but the author(s) ought to acknowledge the error. How about it?

>> o <<

[Bunker]

Octoped,

Is there any problem using a 220 ohm resistor at 2 W vs. 1/4 W....perhaps it would run a little cooler ?

Thanks
Bunker

[sukh77]

there should be no problem with using 2W's or 1/4 You only need it for 20 min at the most. Are u'r resistors getting hot or something. They should not be a heating up either way.

[Bunker]

Thanks..I read another poster's resistor was heating up....I just have some 220/2w resistors ...thought I might as well use them...
73s
Bunker

[octoped]

The power dissipation for the 220 ohm resistor is (assuming your source at C44 is 25 volts) 0.75 Watts. For a 330 ohm resistor, the dissipation is 0.5 Watts. So it will get hot if you leave it on for a long time. Using a 2 Watt resistor is fine, but won't change the amount of dissipation - it will survive better for long exposures, however.

The use of a 7812 voltage regulator reduces the power considerably, and the 7812 package can handle the power easily especially if you screw the tab into the board mounting hole nearf the SAT IN connector - the tab is at ground and so can be attached to the mounting hole OK. And you don't need to go find a ground to wire either. As a matter of fact, you don't really need the 220 ohm resistor either if you use the 7812.

>> o <<

[Bunker]

Octoped..using the 220ohm 2w........for now its the diode cause that's what I had available at the time...my next vid mod will be w/ a 7812
thanks
73s
Bunker

[shoes]

can i use a 15 volt zener diode i hooked it up and a 330 ohm resistor and now i am getting 10 -11 volts dc. would this hurt anything.

[Dude]

Ok - while we are on this...

With mili's Vid Mod instructions - when I try to change 7FFFFFAC from D500 to 0000, I get the "Incorrect Data Read Back" error as most people have. But if I try to change it to 5D00, I get "Specified Data Cannot be written without erasing the chip/sector first".

Any ideas?

[Walten]

shoes i from what i understand you are not supposed to connect the wire to sb5. It is supposed to go 2 spots over.

[Vector]

I did everything last night and I cannot get the wire legg attach to sb38. Any advice. I am attempting to solder it just below the "Spot" after the cut and it not soldering . Where does sb38 start. Can i solder it at that point.?

Dirk

[sukh77]

It is SB35 not SB38. Continue to read the entire thread not just the begining.

[Vector]

I followed the instructions on the first page of this thread and soldered on sb38 and used this as my spot. I cut the lead and everything. Have I screwed my IRD or can I still repair it. Sould I solder wire from SB38 spot and try and reconnect the lead wire? then cut sb35 and connect then use that as my spot?

Vector

[shoes]

shoes i from what i understand you are not supposed to connect the wire to sb5. It is supposed to go 2 spots over.


do u think that it would hurt anything like it is they have been playing for two or 3 weeks. done it by anouther deal went back and checked it and that is what it said two spots over there was no picures.

[lexar]

I have a 301-13 single tsop IRD.

I soldered a jtag on top and grounded r79 and was able to read box keys and backup my full tsop.

I then tried to use an atmega and got the nag. I created a vidmod (cut the trace of sb35 and applied 12.5 V) then was able to read the tsop and change the value to 0000. I even read back several times and it was fine.

Then when I shut down the ird and turned off the vidmod. Now jkeys was giving me DCU peek error !! It reads the device ID and device. But nothing else...

I have gone nuts since then.. I cannot get jkeys to work and there is no power light.

I checked voltages (when vidmod is on I have 12.5 when off I have about 20mV at spot.) I have grounded R79 I tried grounding pad 1 from the bottom.. I have tried pretty much everything that I have read and still nothing...

If anyone has any suggestions what what can be done!

[BirdieMod]

OK, This is getting out of control and I need to get this fixed. I was not a mod at this site when all these vid mod files were posted and personally think the resister zener diode mod is junk anyway, So do not download and look at them.
There is no SB38 involved, It is SB35. I hear the wiring is F'd up in the diagram as well. Everyone is trying so hard with misinformation and I would like to get this easier and set correct for all.

[Walten]

amen to that. read milis how to. Dont go by what is on the forums as people are misinformed

It worked for me.

[octoped]

Bless you, BirdieMod!

[Blinky]

I tried to flash and it said it is not Erased.

Mpeg3s


ok if you erased the tsop when you try to flash again make sure you select

on the right side the 301 - 3100 then try to flash if will not give you that

msg anymore, that one had me going crazzy also :)

[quachtinh]

Hi All,
I have the 301-013 dual TSOP and did vid mod. however, when i connect pin 9,11,13,15 and 19 like the one in mili's webpage, I could not get anything in jkey. I follow every step but I could not get the Jtag done. I have 2 problems and I need your help:
Fisrt,I could not see the green light when I plug in the power cord. Second, did i make the jtag correctly? I have a little confulse wether to connect 2,3,4,5 and 13 or like the one i did above?
Thanks so much.

[gmoyer]

I did everything last night and I cannot get the wire legg attach to sb38. Any advice. I am attempting to solder it just below the "Spot" after the cut and it not soldering . Where does sb38 start. Can i solder it at that point.?

Dirk


Its easier to solder it from underneath the board.

[gmoyer]

My problem is that the voltage at c44 is not 25-30 volts its 60+ volts. I attached my vid mod and everything got updated. When I plugged the receiver back in and hooked up to the steam, no power light. Do you unhook the loop to get rid of dcu errors, or is it left in.

[sukh77]

gmoyer did you turn the vidmod off when you plugged it back in stream. You might need to double check that voltage it should not be 60volts.

[morningstar]

I sure could use some help with my dp301.013 . I've done the viv mod & while it was saving the image the laptop went into hibernation before I noticed that it had become unpluged!
Now the receiver acts like ( or is) DEAD. It won't power on. I get jkeys to detect it, only ird is all 000's theboxkeys are all fff's the build etc is all yyyy's
When I go into flash progamming, unplugging ,etc then it says flash codes are not recognized by jkeys . Mfg/Device codes returned are FFFF/FFFF(JEDC) and FFFF/FFFF (flashfile)
I've rechecked every connection I did several times. removed the ground, removed jtag. IT just won't power up!
Is there something I can do??
Any help is appreciated, Thanks

[gunther]

I hope this helps someone.

http://www.dssftp.com/forum/upload/showthread.php?t=19555

[bulbulkhan]

Dear T160hq,

im a bit confused with your line 9.

1- connect the jtag
2- do the vid mod
3- open jkeys
4- click on flash programming
5- reset the ird and click on ok
6- in the address section, write: 7FFFFFAC
7- click on read, 5D00 will appear
8- change it to 0000
9- click on program, remove the vid mod
10- enjoy!!! now you can use your atmega, roms & even your yellow card...

my question is " how do we do remove VID, coz i never read any article from anywhere that remove vid. anyway can i take my vid mod off after finishing my work done, does it my values saved in tsop, and do i don't need vid mod in future in any mean.
please let me know about it.
thnx...
regards,
only and lonely...

[sukh77]

I think he meant to turn Vid Mod off to set it back to normal circuit. You will need the Vid Mod when you get ecm'd or any time you want to program the IRD.

[chep]

OR you can do the simple VIDMOD using a 9volt battery and remove it after the flashing is complete. I would recommend you just leave it and add the switch for future use though!


chep

[munro_d44]

I think he meant to turn Vid Mod off to set it back to normal circuit. You will need the Vid Mod when you get ecm'd or any time you want to program the IRD.

Vidmod is NOT needed to repair ECM hit. For 301.013, single flash box, just erase SA49 & restream...unit will repair itself. :)

[sukh77]

Munro_d44 - Thanks for the correction. I had forgot about that. Although I would leave the Vid Mod in anyway.

[bulbulkhan]

I did VID MOD succeessfully, when i see 7FFFFFAC address, its showing me 0000. butttttttttttttttttt no display anymore.... plz plz plzzzzz help me out, im loudly crying and nobody here to listen me... hey dudesssssss, i kno u guys could help me out. symtoms are;
my reciever DP 301-13, power light is ON, but not showing any picture, i didn't erase my flash yet, do i need to do that or whts the procedure to do it on dp 301 13. plzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz help me out...
only and lonely...

[munro_d44]

I did VID MOD succeessfully, when i see 7FFFFFAC address, its showing me 0000. butttttttttttttttttt no display anymore.... plz plz plzzzzz help me out, im loudly crying and nobody here to listen me... hey dudesssssss, i kno u guys could help me out. symtoms are;
my reciever DP 301-13, power light is ON, but not showing any picture, i didn't erase my flash yet, do i need to do that or whts the procedure to do it on dp 301 13. plzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz help me out...
only and lonely...


Need a little more info, bud. :rolleyes:


What firmware is the 301 running?

Can you get in the menu or is it completely blank?

What device are you using...rom cam, atmega, emu...?

Do you have the PK0 fix applied to your device?

Did you repair the trace cut from the vidmod & verify w/ voltmeter?

[bulbulkhan]

Need a little more info, bud. :rolleyes:


What firmware is the 301 running?

Can you get in the menu or is it completely blank?

What device are you using...rom cam, atmega, emu...?

Do you have the PK0 fix applied to your device?

Did you repair the trace cut from the vidmod & verify w/ voltmeter?






Dear Munro,
i don't kno firmware, could u plz let me kno how do we check it ?
but that is DP 301-013, and i hv backup of tsop and took that back up without vid mod. is that ok ?
when i plug in my reciever, there is nothing come up on my television, its just a blank screen but reciever power light is on. it happened just after my vid mod.
i gonna use atmega, but for using any rom cam, atmega or anyone even i need to see the screen ?
i donno any thing about PKO ? should i use it for fixing my this problem ?
and last no i didn't off vid mod from my system, its still there and even i did not repair the trace cut, its still there ? should i fill it up ? but how ? how can i fix my trace back ?
thnx munaro for nice being help with me, im really worried. i appreciated...
waiting for ur next reply ?
nick

[munro_d44]

Dear Munro,
i don't kno firmware, could u plz let me kno how do we check it ?
but that is DP 301-013, and i hv backup of tsop and took that back up without vid mod. is that ok ?
when i plug in my reciever, there is nothing come up on my television, its just a blank screen but reciever power light is on. it happened just after my vid mod.
i gonna use atmega, but for using any rom cam, atmega or anyone even i need to see the screen ?
i donno any thing about PKO ? should i use it for fixing my this problem ?
and last no i didn't off vid mod from my system, its still there and even i did not repair the trace cut, its still there ? should i fill it up ? but how ? how can i fix my trace back ?
thnx munaro for nice being help with me, im really worried. i appreciated...
waiting for ur next reply ?
nick

Don't take this the wrong way, but it sounds like you need to read up on a few things. The vidmod isn't something to be undertaken w/out knowing the procedure inside out or you can easily fry your .013 (I know from experience).

You either need to have the vidmod wiring (either diode or regulator method) hooked up to a DPDT switch to effectively remove it from the circuit when switched off OR you need to remove it completely and repair the trace cut. If removed, you need to solder a piece of small gauge wire from SB35 to the test point near SB5 to rejoin the trace. Check the attached pic...the trace repair wire is outlined in blue. Don't worry about the other wires in the pic...they're for a lock. Fix your trace & see how that does. :)

[sukh77]

Try plugging in the atmega see if the light goes off, After you plug the atmega in it takes couple of minutes before the light goes off. See if it behaves differently. Did you add a on/off switch for the Vid mod like all the instructions tell you to?