dnice
07-22-2006, 01:43 AM
Is there any truth to the post below? Are ther 3 different types of 510's:
with R331
without R331 and no silk screen
without R331 but silk screen is presentDoes it matter which VID mod you perform (3-wire/1 cut or 4-wire/2 cut)? I heard that the 4 wire/2 cut method is the safest. Can the 4 wire/2 cut method be performed and any 510. Please help
PVR 501 508 510 Warning!
There are different board versions of these units, and I can’t tell you about all of them. What I can tell you is that if you’re going to vidmod, and your board doesn’t have R331, BE AWARE THE REGULAR VIDMOD WILL KILL YOUR SYSTEM! (Yes, I am shouting) This doesn’t mean that you can’t vidmod, but there are different instructions for doing a no R331 board.
I am aware of three boards with a number of chip combinations. Some have no R331 and it’s not even silk screened on the board. This is not the one I’m talking about. The next has R331 installed and the vidmod works on this one. The third board that I know about has the empty pads and a label for R331, but it’s not installed. This is the board that will self destruct if you do the regular vidmod. It will work long enough for you to change 7FFFFFAC, the whole reason for doing the vidmod in the first place! You may install you lock at this point, after carefully following tedious instructions. Imagine what you will think when the unit craps out right after you install the lock.
The symptoms of self destruction are:
The unit won’t boot (no picture)
Your Jkeys will retrieve the processor type, but it won’t get any other information.
You will get a DCU Control Error when you enter the program mode of Jkeys.
Talk about chasing your tail! Did your Jtag just crap out? It was just working. Did you fail to follow the instructions? Did you get sloppy? Did you hose the lock install? Did you blow U7? Before you get some Quick Chip and pull U7, I read from a guy who did that and put the chip in an external programmer and he was able to read it.
The vidmod for the “No R331” is basically the same under the board as the regular vidmod. The big difference is that you don’t put wire “A” and “B” together, as they will run to the switch. “A” will be the center of the switch, “B” will be one side, and 12v will be the other. There is no wire “C”. There is no mention of cutting the trace on top between the Tsops.
I haven’t tried any of this, so proceed at your own risk. I hope someone who knows more about this can chip in and tell us what’s damaged on the dead ones. I don’t have the answer. I hope this post saves someone from going through this.
with R331
without R331 and no silk screen
without R331 but silk screen is presentDoes it matter which VID mod you perform (3-wire/1 cut or 4-wire/2 cut)? I heard that the 4 wire/2 cut method is the safest. Can the 4 wire/2 cut method be performed and any 510. Please help
PVR 501 508 510 Warning!
There are different board versions of these units, and I can’t tell you about all of them. What I can tell you is that if you’re going to vidmod, and your board doesn’t have R331, BE AWARE THE REGULAR VIDMOD WILL KILL YOUR SYSTEM! (Yes, I am shouting) This doesn’t mean that you can’t vidmod, but there are different instructions for doing a no R331 board.
I am aware of three boards with a number of chip combinations. Some have no R331 and it’s not even silk screened on the board. This is not the one I’m talking about. The next has R331 installed and the vidmod works on this one. The third board that I know about has the empty pads and a label for R331, but it’s not installed. This is the board that will self destruct if you do the regular vidmod. It will work long enough for you to change 7FFFFFAC, the whole reason for doing the vidmod in the first place! You may install you lock at this point, after carefully following tedious instructions. Imagine what you will think when the unit craps out right after you install the lock.
The symptoms of self destruction are:
The unit won’t boot (no picture)
Your Jkeys will retrieve the processor type, but it won’t get any other information.
You will get a DCU Control Error when you enter the program mode of Jkeys.
Talk about chasing your tail! Did your Jtag just crap out? It was just working. Did you fail to follow the instructions? Did you get sloppy? Did you hose the lock install? Did you blow U7? Before you get some Quick Chip and pull U7, I read from a guy who did that and put the chip in an external programmer and he was able to read it.
The vidmod for the “No R331” is basically the same under the board as the regular vidmod. The big difference is that you don’t put wire “A” and “B” together, as they will run to the switch. “A” will be the center of the switch, “B” will be one side, and 12v will be the other. There is no wire “C”. There is no mention of cutting the trace on top between the Tsops.
I haven’t tried any of this, so proceed at your own risk. I hope someone who knows more about this can chip in and tell us what’s damaged on the dead ones. I don’t have the answer. I hope this post saves someone from going through this.