Timing a 93 chevy 350

[Stockwell_Day]

SO I just replaced the motor in my truck and now need to time it. I have not timed a motor in years and was wondering what is all involved. I was wondering if anyone knows exactly what I need and how to do it. I am sure I could figure it out but its nice to have the wisdom of you guys helpin me out.

Thanks

[lefty]

SO I just replaced the motor in my truck and now need to time it. I have not timed a motor in years and was wondering what is all involved. I was wondering if anyone knows exactly what I need and how to do it. I am sure I could figure it out but its nice to have the wisdom of you guys helpin me out.

Thanks

Not quite enough info......was the the distributor taken out when engine installed or left in?

The initial is 0 degrees, the computer handles the advance. There should be an emission decal under the hood with the specs.

Here's a FAQ page devoted to the 350:

h**p://www.faqfarm.com/Q/FAQ/1426

[Twostep]

The last time I rebuilt an early model 350, I removed the plug from cylinder 1 (left front) and aligned the timing mark on the harmonic balancer with the indicator/pointer attached to the timing cover. If you can, use a big socket and a breakover bar and manually turn the engine until the mark on the balancer is at zero on the pointer.

Then, verify that cylinder 1's piston is UP (if down, you'll be 180 degrees off and will never get it started)...if so, then install the distributor. As you know, it will turn a bit as you seat it...but the goal is to get the rotor pointed in the general direction of cylinder 1, making sure you have enough room to move the distributor back and forth. Tighten the distributor tie-down, but not real tight - you need to be able to adjust the distrubutor by hand.

Set the cap on the distributor, and choose which cap terminal will be used for cylinder 1. Turn the distributor back and forth to align (as best you can) the rotor tip with the position of the chosen cap terminal. Tighten the distributor down.

Cylinders are numbered 1,3,5,7 on the left bank, front to rear...and 2,4,6,8 right bank, front to rear. Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, or at least it was the last time I built one. You might want to verify this for your engine.

After you get the wire to cyl 1 installed, the remainder are placed CLOCKWISE around the distributor cap. 8,4,3,6,5,7,2.

This is a baseline setup which if done correctly will be close enough to get the engine fired. You may need someone to slowly move the distributor back and forth as you crank, in the event it's still too far off to start. Once you get it going, keep the idle slow and set the timing at zero.

You may need to fine-tune it as you drive - an old rule of thumb is to advance it until it pings, then back it off just a little from there.

[DrSagan]

ummm, it's clockwise 18436572 on that year 350 chevy, #1 being on the drivers side here in North America. 0 degrees timing is correct but you need to disconnect the set timing connector. '93 is kinda a transient year. The connector could be a small one underneath the glove box area, or could be under the hood behind the black plastic shield on the passenger firewall. It's a tan wire that needs to be disconnected, then set timing to 0. Once set, turn off engine, reconnect tan wire, and disconnect battery for 20 seconds to clear the code set.

[Bandit5906]

The firing order was not changed until they went to the Gen III motor! Unless you have a "trick" cam!

[Twostep]

ummm, it's clockwise 18436572 on that year 350 chevy

Uh oh....I stand corrected. Been too long, I guess. Sorry, Stockwell:(

[PJMan]

like the good Dr said, the anti dieseling plug must be disconnected or you will never get the timing right.

[Stockwell_Day]

wow you guys, thanks for all the good advice!!! I'll let ya know how it goes!

[BirdieMod]

Recheck the dist rotation my 1992 front wheel drive chevy 350 rotates counter clockwise. All you need to do is disconnect the bat connestor from the dist leave cap off and hit the key a second while someone watches which way the dist is turning to know for sure.

[sugar_ray]

older models are alot more user friendly then the newer 350's

you gotta love the chev small blocks though! very affordable to rebuild, dime a dozen. i had a good friend rebuild a 350 for my 79 camero this summer. he's been around engine blocks since he could crawl. He decided to time it by simply road testing. any pinging or knocking he simple retarded the distributor back a few degrees until it sounded and just felt right. i asked why don't we just use a timing light?? He claimed that,because its carberator fed, its tough to accuratly time without using high octane (non pump) fuel. i imagine that yours being a 93 is fuel injected?? timing light is probably your best option. play with the distributor until the light matches

best of luck

[BirdieMod]

Octane,Cylinder carbon,Headers,dual exhuast,Carb mods,Timing chain wear,Dist advance springs and weights,Cam all make a dif on timing. Many older hopped up motors can run farther advanced for more hp.

[ghost71799]

How is your 69 C'maro twostep?

Dr. you are wrong about the wire needing to be disconected.

Just disconect the battery.

Set the timing like twostep said.

Ghost

[ghost71799]

Hey Birdie, you are right about advance the timing = hp in early models.

However, running a lean fuel to air mixture is best also.

How about carburators, you have to adjust for cold and hot weather also atmospheric pressure.

Ghost

[BirdieMod]

I always thought running too lean could burn valves and pistons?

[Zim]

not unless you have high performance setup.......if stock it is best to stick with the original setup.....

[driveclean]

ummm, it's clockwise 18436572 on that year 350 chevy, #1 being on the drivers side here in North America. 0 degrees timing is correct but you need to disconnect the set timing connector. '93 is kinda a transient year. The connector could be a small one underneath the glove box area, or could be under the hood behind the black plastic shield on the passenger firewall. It's a tan wire that needs to be disconnected, then set timing to 0. Once set, turn off engine, reconnect tan wire, and disconnect battery for 20 seconds to clear the code set.

Just incase anybody cares this is the correct answer to the question.

[ghost71799]

Yeah, and in case some little one wants to know, ghost was right, factory specs.

Ghost:D

[ghost71799]

Oh yeah, this is not to discourage any newbie.

Ghost

[Stockwell_Day]

****UPDATE****

Ok, so I had the motor swapped out about 3 weeks ago. While the guy had the motor out he changed the release bearing on my clutch. The motor was not properly timed, but it was close so that is why I needed to time it better. I actually have been to busy installing hardwood and working to get the timing done so I can't even up date on that. But the clutch piled up on me yesterday. It will not go into gear at all. The resevoir was dry. If i take the transfer case and toss it into neutral, I can put it in gear and then move the transfer case back into 2wd and i can drive it in first. Basically the clutch is not disengaging at all now. SO. . . looks like I am dropping out a tranny this weekend. Jeeeez. . . I hate this truck. Anyone want to but a 92 chevy extended cab 4x4 with a great motor and a fucking shitty clutch???

I woudl imagine buddy fucked up my clutch for me but prove it I suppose. . .

What do you guys think?

[Patrat]

You say the resivoir was dry, I assume that means hydraulic clutch. You have to fill it up again and then make sure the clutch fork is moving in the bell housing when you depress the clutch. Don't pull it apart until you know the slave clyinder is being actuated by the master, it might just be that it is out of oil and has air in the system. If the clutch fork is moving in the bell housing then most likely the thowout bearing fell off the fork during install of the engine and is still laying on the garage floor or is on the tranny input shaft but behind the fork. Good luck and let us know how it went.

[Stockwell_Day]

well as it turns out the cocksucker who installed my engine managed to be rough with the line from the master to the slave on my clutch. i had to use a pressure bleeder to get it to work. blew the bad connection apart. then repaired it and rebleed the system. it seems ok now. took a whole freakin day though as we attempted to bleed it by hand at first. seems good now. still have to time it. maybe tomorrow???

[ghost71799]

The timing needs to be set manually.

Align 0 on the tab, or pointer with the line on the harmonic balancer, or crank shaft pulley.

Take the distributor cap off and see where the rotor button is pointing.

It should be pointing to number one engine cylinder located on the drivers side front.

The rotor button should also point to number 1 on the inside of the distributor cap (it is a lift the distributor cap off the distributor and look type of thing).

A timing light really is not necessary with it being 0 degrees on the timing.

[Bandit5906]

How's about a '97, which has that strange dist cap w/4 wires pointing one way and 4 the other?

Timed it, but still getting error code saying crank/cam not aligned?

[Stockwell_Day]

My god. I have had nothing but trouble with this truck in the past month. I have now had a wheel fall off. Seriously, I was driving down the street last night and the front drivers wheel came off. I think someone was trying to steal the rims and got interupted. Anyway, I now get to pound out a couple studs on the hub tomorrow and put in new ones. Plus it screwed my rim. Hopefully it didn't screw the hub or anything else in the front end. I was going about 30km/h when it happened and it was in snow. So hopefully its all good. Will let y'all know once again. Maybe even get to the timing tomorrow if the wheel studs go well.

Good times. Anyone want to buy a chevy trike?

[mopar611]

Chebbies huh.. Damn..

Dont suprise me its falling apart.. Ive seen alot of them doing that...LOL

It also dont suprise me the only thing the thief wanted was the rubber.. Only
thing worth taking off a crapolet.. LOLx2

Mopar

[ghost71799]

I just wanted to let folks know I,"Ghost " had one hell of a gone fisting match tonight.

[Bandit5906]

[QUOTE=Stockwell_Day]My god. I have had nothing but trouble with this truck in the past month. I have now had a wheel fall off. Seriously, I was driving down the street last night and the front drivers wheel came off. I think someone was trying to steal the rims and got interupted. Anyway, I now get to pound out a couple studs on the hub tomorrow and put in new ones. Plus it screwed my rim. Hopefully it didn't screw the hub or anything else in the front end. I was going about 30km/h when it happened and it was in snow. So hopefully its all good. Will let y'all know once again. Maybe even get to the timing tomorrow if the wheel studs go well.

Right!

I know what you mean though: I do a dedicated run and last week in the rain and with the leaves at 3:00am ran the tractor off the road and bent the damn rim. I could not see the road at all! Not a simple job to fix on a big rig!

[Stockwell_Day]

Well the rim is shot, but the good news is nothing else is. I didn't have much trouble gettin the stud in and all that. I am gonna go on Tuesday and get a rim from Salvage. $250 for the fucker. But at least I will be going again. As far as the MOPAR mocking, I had a dodge Ram for 4 years. And after a tranny, and an entire front end because it was put together with metal that I am sure is as soft a butter. I think I might go back to Ford after this. I just have no idea anymore. I tell ya, I am definately frustrated.

[Bandit5906]

$250.00 for the rim? Damn, that is dealer/new price. Chevy P/U rims are $25.00 here in salvage. Search some more before you throw down money like that, IMHO!

[ghost71799]

Ok Drsagon, you were right about the wire that you disconnect.

However, I was right about teh the timing being set manually, seeing as how it is 0 degrees, (it sounds so much better\, than the manual timing, if you use a timing light), "settings".

Ghost:confused: