what did I do wrong with new mili nexus?

[davidghoser]

Just got the Mili Nexus unlocker.

Used 9V, 300mA center positive power.
Com1. Winexplorer 5 with crazy's 103-105 script on new yellow rev card.

I was getting bad cmd04 error with the standard mili setting came from the factory, so I turned the pot slightly clockwise and saw +-+-+ stuff! Yay!

However, Within seconds ...

Let the 102 Glitching continue....
LETS TRY NEW DELAY
Glitch Delay = 0326
VCC = 10

+-+---+-+---+-+---+-+--+-+-+--+-+-+-NoRsp+-+-+-+-NoRsp+--+-+-NoRsp+-+-+-+-NoRsp+-+-+-+-NoRsp+-+-+-+-NoRsp+-
NO ATR Rcv'd, trying 2nd ATR...
NO 2nd ATR Rcv'd, continue reset, back to first atr
NO ATR Rcv'd, trying 2nd ATR...
NO 2nd ATR Rcv'd, continue reset, back to first atr
NO ATR Rcv'd, trying 2nd ATR...
NO 2nd ATR Rcv'd, continue reset, back to first atr
NO ATR Rcv'd, trying 2nd ATR...
NO 2nd ATR Rcv'd, continue reset, back to first atr

Did I waste my money? Please tell me what I did wrong before I screw up any more cards! I'm zero for two now.

[studmonkey76]

check to see if u still have atr in your iso...if u dont have an iso, then id get one or borrow one from a friend...if u have an atr in iso, then you didnt mess up, but if not, your SOL...

mine did that before, and all i did was turn it back counter clockwise a little bit and was good to go

[foxx1600]

what revision card was it? im assuming a 103 or a 105 for that script also u arnt adjusting the pot while its glitching right as this could lock card. also have to be carefull on the switch settings

[davidghoser]

Card was a revision 105.
I put the card in an ISO. NO ATR.
Next step is to try to flash the mili loader. Nada. Can't flash.
What else can I try before I have to ship this loader back to Mili?

[cricket1]

Card was a revision 105.
I put the card in an ISO. NO ATR.
Next step is to try to flash the mili loader. Nada. Can't flash.
What else can I try before I have to ship this loader back to Mili?


Same thing happened to me except I ruined two cards. The problem was not with the loader. The setting on the pot coming from Mili is not set to open cards. You have to get an ohms meter and adjust it. I thought I could mess with the pot a little without ruining a card, but I was wrong. I turned it over to a friend with a ohms meter. He set it and have popped several cards with out problems. I am sorry that you had to learn the same lesson I did. I am stilll trying to revive my "No ATR" cards, but no luck. Expensive mistake.

[fubr]

If the Ohms were wrong and it looped your card then the loader is OK,

Like he said I too am sorry for your loss but sending the loader back is not going to help.
In hindsight, reading about setting the loader up correctly and what scripts to use would have been the wise thing to do. (dont take that as me bashing you), I have done it also

It is what it is and dont let this stop you, Yes exspensive but sadley enough these things do happen on some cards and no way to tell before hand it is going to happen.
You can find you another card and still come out cheaper than buying all the channels and PPV and events from chuckie.
Although a minumal sub is nice to have to help support the old fucker and it does make this more of a hobby when you are paying for a basic sub then playing with the rest.

[davidghoser]

Thanks for your input.

I was finally able to flash the loader by using another computer. The problem was in the BIOS - the port was set to "Hardware" and it wanted "Xon/Xoff." After I changed that, ND13 flashed with no problem. The loader probably already had the correct flash on it as shipped, but at least this proves that the hardware Mili sold me is good and I will not have to return it.

About costs... Yeah, this is an expensive hobby... However, I bought the card at a church rummage sale in a lot of 3 for such an embarrassingly low price, I won't mention it here, because I am aware that many people paid well over $200 for theirs. Suffice to say that I still have two 102 rev 105s left to play with. I really don't want to ruin these cards. My pot settings ruined the first card, so I must find a way to fix this problem.

Another problem I had was that I was using an ancient multimeter (had a needle, not digital). I bought a new one at Harbor Freight today. This digital multimeter has 200, 2000, 20k, etc Ohm settings on it, which I take to mean that you multiply the number in the window by the chosen setting (eg 0.5 under 2000 means 1000 ohms) right? I'm new to electronics.

I read that many people had good luck with 700 ohms, but I can't find a place on the dial that gives me between 3 and 4 (200 setting) or 0.3 to 0.4 (2000 setting). This small, square gray pot seems to be substandard. I have another cheapo pot from Rat Shack (part 271-1714). Should I put this on and take the other one off? Which of the 3 solder points goes where?

I value all input and I will read much more before I attempt to destroy my remaining two cards (or the white Nexus).

Thanks.

[Ohms]

You have that little yellow CEN-TECH P35761 Harbor Freight $3.99 special? :)

Me too..

Set the meter switch on 2000. That will allow you to read from 0 to 2000 ohms without having to do any math.

The small gray pot is within tolerance for a pot that does not need to be reset after you get it setup. Since you don't have to change it very often, you might just live with it. It will work just like it is.

[davidghoser]

Thanks Ohms!

Yeah, I got a Cen-Tech, $4 Barbie toy hot neon pink colored multimeter from Harbor Freight (price good until 11-14)! Mine is model 92020 (should have been called 90210, lol).
So, under the "2000" setting, 700 means 700 ohms and not 350 ohms?
Also, what script would you recommend for 102 revision 105s?
I might make a go at it tonight now that I learned how to use the multimeter.

[davidghoser]

Here's how I am setting the White Nexus on my next attempt. Does is look ok?
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l252/lesechang/whitenexuspotmeasurement.jpg

[Zim]

lookin good but a bit high I think...mine pop at @ 200 on down at 9 v 800 ma...center positive if this make a diff...

[davidghoser]

I finally got a yellow card working!!
I used Mili's White/Clear Nexus @ 700 Ohms with a Radio Shack 300mA 9V positive center power supply, XP 1GHz AMD CPU, and the "new.xvb" script with VCC max/min settings modified to go from 15 to 0, and a $4 Cen-Tech digital multimeter (Model 92020) I bought for $4 at Harbor Freight to test the ohms before each attempt (sale until 14 Nov 2006, then only $10)
I started at 700 Ohms and got the Cmd04 message. I then disconnected the power and turned the pot up to 815. Still Cmd04. Then 863. Cmd04 again. At 930, I finally got the +++---++. I turned it off, and lowered the ohms back to 860. Still +++----+. Hmmm. Strange. A minute ago, 860 gave me cmd04s. I then lowered it back to 700 to see what would happen. Guess what? It popped instantly:
TX Data : 90
RX Data : 4E 44 31 33
Let the 102 Glitching begin....
+-NoRsp+--+-
TX Data : A1
===========================================
Glitch Success!! A0FF-INTERCEPT IS ON
BootLoader 6F 00 RSP Received!!
VCC = 14 (~0.397058823529412 vdc)
Glitch Delay = 0320
Glitch type 07
===========================================
Script C:\sat\Win Explorer\scripts and info\new.xvb Transmission Completed
This is strange. Why would it show cmd04 at 700 ohms when I began, and then +++----- several minutes later at the same number? I used a meter every step of the way, so the only other thing I can think of is heat. Perhaps the pot or the white nexus "warmed up." Hell, I don't know. I'm very unscientific!
I admit I panicked at first, when I fried my first card. I thought the equipment was faulty and even talked of returning the hardware. I walked away from it for a few hours, calmed down, and discovered that the equipment was fine.
This has been a good experience. Here's a summary of what I've learned. If anyone finds an error with the following, please jump in and correct me before someone else loops his card!
. A multimeter is not optional equipment for glitching yellow cards. You're paying big bucks for a card and an unlocker, so don't forget the multimeter! Moral: Buy a digital multimeter, learn how to use it, and know where the points are on your unlocker (white nexus in my case). Don't even think of playing this game without measuring Ohms! Take a measurement before each attempt.
. The setting "2000" on my multimeter doesn't mean "multiply by 2000." It means that the values in the window go up to 2000.
. When you see a "bad cmd04," that means your resistance (ohms) is set too low. Very slowly creep it up a fraction by turning the pot with a small screwdriver (clockwise in my case) and try it again until you see +s and -s.
. I read that you should unplug the device before changing the pot (ohms). I did this.
. I noticed that as the unlocker "heats up" you can glitch at a lower ohms number than when it is cold without getting the cmd04 message. However, don't get too low. Stay above 200.
. Some people say to start glitching at 700 ohms, others like 200.
. One of my cards glitched at 700 ohms (instantly!), but another one from the same lot fried at 700 ohms later the same day on the same board. Perhaps I should have started at around 250 ohms or so, hoped to get a "cmd04" and then worked my way up.
. The pot on the white nexus is extremely sensitive in places - one slight wiggle of the wrist - not even a visible screwdriver turn - just a slight pressure - can register an increase of 50 ohms or more! Even though the pot is oversensitive, you can compensate for this by having the multimeter at your side and taking a resistance measurement before each glitching attempt.
My record is dismal - I looped two others before I bought the multimeter - so take my advice with a grain of salt.
However, since I now am watching TV with the yellow card, Mili's unlocker has earned its keep. My only complaint (besides the temperamental pot) is the packaging it came in: Mili, please tell your supplier to ship it in a small box in popcorn instead of the chintzy bubble bag. It's the least they could do for the $25 shipping charge!

[davidghoser]

Ah. So a good strategy is to start low, say 210 Ohms, and slowly work your way up?

[adrelnjunky]

for rev 103 or 105, keep it at 700 ohms, thats the magic #, I use nagramaster loader version and they pop in under 30 secs for the 103, and under 2 min for the 105. Nagramaster is great for the earlier versions.

[Zim]

I pop my 103's and 105 at @ 70ohms with my mikIII ...also with my nexus at @ 200 so it really depends on your pc and/or voltage ,setup and so forth...

[davidghoser]

So there's really no tried and true method? Some say 200, some say 700. Some change their pot with the engine running, while others turn off the power to the white nexus before changing the resistance. Depends on the card revision? I would just like to have a methodical plan of attack so I don't fry my next card! Some say under 200 ohms fries cards, others say it's ok at 70.

I sure wish I had DVDBLOODLINES' electronics skills so that I could build my own unlocker!

I have White Nexus, 9VDC 300mA power supply, slow Dell CPU. Well, it's a moot point right now, since I'm out of cards to fry :)

Thanks for all of your input, thought.