Considering getting a new unlocker

[mackscb]

I have a white nexus unlocker. I have had very mixed success with this unlocker. I unlocked a few rev 103 and 105 cams using Nagramaster 2 loader version with a ohm setting of about 200 ohms.

Lately, using the Rom10x reader, writer, unlocker script with default settings, I have looped one 108 with a 700 ohm setting and unlocked one with a 1000 ohm setting. I've looped 2 out of three rev 107's with ohm setting around 1000 ohms. I've done a lot of reading on unlocking and I know the scripts and settings I am using have worked well for many others.

The other night I looped a rev 105 with nagramaster. Now I am suspicious this unlocker is just flakey or maybe just not compatible with my hardware. My failure rate just seems higher that others seem to have.

I've seen some info on the Mikobu Vortex Pro. Is this considered to be a more reliable unlocker? Can any of you guys out there with this unlocker comment on it?

Any other recommendations for a high quality, reliable unlocker?

[Crazy1_79]

anything over rev 105 is a hit or miss deal, believe me they loop, we all loop them, just don't like to admit it. I have looped less than I have unlocked but for rev 107 I'd be lucky if I am 50 percent. they are a bitch. 108 is easier.

[mackscb]

I read your sticky above and it seems you have good luck with the white nexus. Others, like me, seem to have problems. Might be the nexus, or could be my computer hardware. Who knows.

If you were buying a unlocker today, what would you be buying?

[Crazy1_79]

Well I have had experience with blue, white and orange nexus, modified T911's, Mikobu's. but not the vortex pro. I would stay away from the mikobu N2's. I do not like those. I do not have the vortex pro specs or know much about them, but their "loop proof" claim is just silly. Don't buy it with the assumption it won't loop a cam, cuz I guarantee it will. Other than that, I think it is a nice unlocker, just not alot of people have them.

[mackscb]

I'm not buying the "no loop" claim either. I just looking for something of higher quality, reliability and perhaps more compatible with my computer hardware.

[DrSagan]

Maybe someone can copy the post I made at 10x about glitch looping cams.

[fubr]

glad you back DrSagan lol to much time goes by without a post from you :)

I cant find it, maybe you can c&p it,

or pm me a link and I will.



still looking for it

[mopar611]

In my opinion, the Nexus is the best..

If you are looping cards, its you..

As far as ohms go, keep them down.. I have unlocked all revs at
around 200 ohms.. The higher revs like it.. You should not be at 700..
As a matter of fact.. I dont even check ohms anymore. I just lower it until
the scrip errors out then raise it and then just run it.. If it dont pop in say
30 minutes max, I change something.. Say, DIP settings. 2 and 5 are the
most common.. But dont hesitate to try 3 or 4 by themselves.. I remember
one time I was trying to pop a 106, for 2 days. Wouldnt move.. So I tried
DIP 4, popped in 10 seconds.. I about shit my self.. Couldnt believe it.... I didnt
change anything else..

I agree with Crazy.. The 107 is by far the hardest.. I pop them at around
100 ohms..

The only 2 108s I have ever done popped in seconds..

Also, check your trim pot.. They tend to go out.. The ohms start to drop
on there own, which will loop your card.. Check it with a meter and
watch it.. You will see what I mean. It should stay exactly where you leave
it..

Then you get into delays.. See, the scipts are made to hit most cards.. But
not all of them.. Thats when you read about a stubborn card.. IMO, there
is not stubborn card. Just have to hit it just right. And thats where the
delays come in.. Try lowering or raising them.. This does in fact make
a huge difference..

Enough of this..

To answer you question.. I bet your trim pop it bad...

Mopar

[fubr]

Maybe someone can copy the post I made at 10x about glitch looping cams.

OK cool I found it!! well Cristian @ dishjunkie did I just clicked his link..
thanks guys.

How to NOT loop cams while glitching.
Many of us have pondered for a long time whether these cards are physically damaged during the glitch attack and not software looped. In my opinion, this answers that question.

Last week Reb and I were discussing the things that "could" be happening and I mentioned some things that I saw the last time I used the DSOscope and we both agreed the voltage spike I remember seeing when the "gate" closed couldn't be a good thing, so we set out to see if we could "clamp" the voltage.

First, here are some results from testing. 4053's would produce a semi-square waveform ~6v peak to peak voltage swing while 4619's would produce a much more square type waveform but would "ring" terribly upon it's return to 5v, producing over 8v peak to peak swing at times. I have to believe some glitchers are even worse.

Bottom line, after much testing of different diodes, we ended up using a 5817 fast switching Schottky diode and achieved almost the same square waveform but with a peak to peak of only ~5.4v. We tested this mod on all revs of cams and it didn't seem to hinder unlocking at all. Time to do the real test, I ran a cam for over 15 hrs straight with the most agressive nastiest attack I have and it wouldn't die(this is not a script to unlock). I removed the diode and killed it in less than 5 seconds.

Now it's your turn to test the mod out and see if it doesn't stop 90+ % of the looping due to "noisy" waveform.

The mod is simple, 5817 Schottky diode. Annode to cardslot vcc, cathode(the end of the diode with a band around it) to +5v side of the voltage regulator. For those that don't know what a diode does, think of it as a one-way gate with free flow one direction and 1000:1 resistance the other direction. The flow goes from annode to cathode. When the voltage is too high it flows through the diode and the regulator always trying to maintain 5v will "absorb" the excess. The importance of the fast switching Schottky comes into play when the "glitch" tries to reduce the voltage, we need that diode gate to close rapidly or it will let 5v through from the regulator and affect our waveform.

I'm sure there are a few cards around that are software looped (like rom103's that people used rom102 scripts on :rolleyes: ) but I bet the majority have some sort of hardware "anti-glitch death fuse" that is blown.


Attached are pictures of the cardslot pinouts and a modded t911 with the diode attached to give you an idea of how simple and cheap this is to do. I haven't seen Schottkys at rat shak, but any reputable electronics house will have them and I'm sure they're on ebay too.

I guess I can't attach pics. Maybe a mod can add the pics.
hxxp://download.yousendit.com/94D47BA91A574AF9

[fubr]

that and Mopars post, hell this might make sticky thread one day

[mackscb]

In my opinion, the Nexus is the best..

If you are looping cards, its you..

As far as ohms go, keep them down.. I have unlocked all revs at
around 200 ohms.. The higher revs like it.. You should not be at 700..
As a matter of fact.. I dont even check ohms anymore. I just lower it until
the scrip errors out then raise it and then just run it.. If it dont pop in say
30 minutes max, I change something.. Say, DIP settings. 2 and 5 are the
most common.. But dont hesitate to try 3 or 4 by themselves.. I remember
one time I was trying to pop a 106, for 2 days. Wouldnt move.. So I tried
DIP 4, popped in 10 seconds.. I about shit my self.. Couldnt believe it.... I didnt
change anything else..

I agree with Crazy.. The 107 is by far the hardest.. I pop them at around
100 ohms..

The only 2 108s I have ever done popped in seconds..

Also, check your trim pot.. They tend to go out.. The ohms start to drop
on there own, which will loop your card.. Check it with a meter and
watch it.. You will see what I mean. It should stay exactly where you leave
it..

Then you get into delays.. See, the scipts are made to hit most cards.. But
not all of them.. Thats when you read about a stubborn card.. IMO, there
is not stubborn card. Just have to hit it just right. And thats where the
delays come in.. Try lowering or raising them.. This does in fact make
a huge difference..

Enough of this..

To answer you question.. I bet your trim pop it bad...

Mopar
The pot is not bad. I've checked it before and after glitching.

Crazy has posted he has success unlocking higher revs at 700 ohms. I looped a 108 there, but was successful at 1000 ohms with another. I unolcked a 107 at 1000 ohms and then looped the next one at the same setting. I looped the next 107 at 1200 ohms.

I have read of folks poping cams with resistance settings all over the place. Others loop cams regardless of the setting. I'm more inclined to agree with DrSagan that this is some kind of electronic problem and depending one the quality of parts used in the unlockers, some unlockers might manifest the problem worse than others of the same make.

I really like DrSagan's theory. This is a great observation and may lead to more reliable unlockers in the future.