get by lsi 301 10

[eevo66]

is there way past lsi in jkeys? i have try it with jkeys and i keep getting lsi and it wont let me any further. i tried erasing and rewriting in wall and nothing happens there, man im not new to this but i cant get anything to go my way any answers?
p.s im doin it in jkeys 2.9.11

[smilingjack]

You either a have a bad connection
If you are getting LSI you erased the "boot system"

Try to get a new flash, if you don't have to old one, and charge it to fit. get a virgin EEPROM
.
load wall
.
erase all 223.bin, 222.bin. **** 5 times***

load 223, it will tell you it is loading the "boot system" let it go ahead
(it only writes part of it)
.
load 223 AGAIN the rest of it
load 222
load EEPROM

[eevo66]

thank you for ur replies sj u been a lot of help for me, i have tried to bring the receiver back to life with wall by writting 60000 of u23 and nothing is happening. i have tried it so many times i lost count, i cant do anything with jkeys it wont let me in to erase anything or write anything. ill keep tryin if there is another way plz let me know. thank you again for any help past present and future

[smilingjack]

60000 of u23 (the LSI) it what you gotta write fist
than you can write the last three
There is no other way.
.
you batteries OK in the J-tag ?
.
Take it easy, the not aways easy to write,
It has taken me a dozen times to get it writes
BUT it always writes soon or later

[eevo66]

i was afraid u were gonna say that lol i just had the light come on but after down load it was writting so i left jtag on and after the write the light went out, funny it doesnt always wanna write after download that puzzles me being that the light is on after d/l and off after write ill scratch my head some more till i get it lol. thanks again sj

[smilingjack]

do you have it hooked to a power strip that you can switcher if off and on again ?
.
you have to do that.

[smilingjack]

A little incite: The 301.010 has two 2MB TSOPs generally referred to as IC22 (Flash 1, 1FE, u22, or z22) and IC23 (Flash 2, 1FC, u23, or z23). The u23 is the TSOP that contains your box keys & the starting address is 1FC00000 with length 200000. Be sure to erase & reflash, Flash 1 first then Flash 2.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you are getting an error message "LSI Control Unavailable", or "Slow Programming Mode being used", it means you probably unhooked the JTAG, or unplugged the IRD, after you erased the U23 TSOP, but before you reprogrammed it. The quick fix for this is to first ensure that U23 is completely erased. Then try to write just the first 60000 bytes of U23. If that is successful, unplug the IRD from the wall, and plug it in again. The green LED should go on, then off. That means that the boot loader (the first 60000 bytes) has been written successfully, and you should now be able to program the rest of the TSOP(s) without fail. (Note: If Wall crashes when you start it, simply start Jkeys, then close Jkeys, & then start Wall)

Hook up Jtag and start Wall 2.0 & follow this method for resurrecting your 301.010:



· 1. Set Flash Base Address to 1FC00000, Length (Hex) to 200000, & Address Offset to 0.

· 2. Click on Action.

· 3. Choose Erase Flash & in a few minutes flash 2 will be erased.
With 1FC00000 completely erased, Jtag still hooked up & Wall 2.0 still open, do this to reflash the first 60000 bytes, (the boot loader):

· 1. Set Flash Base Address to 1FC00000

· 2. Set Length (Hex) to 60000.

· 3. Set Address Offset to 0.

· 4. Click Select & choose your good back up of U23.

· 5. Click on Action.

· 6. Choose Program

· 7. Once you click Program, you will see a popup window, just click YES. Let the blue progress bar go and wait until you see Done in the lower left corner of Wall.



If that is successful, unplug the IRD power cord, & plug it in again. The green LED should go on, then off. That means that the boot loader (the first 60000 bytes) has been written successfully, and you should now be able to program the rest of the TSOP(s) without fail.

Follow this method for reflash 301.010 flash 2 (IC23):

· 1. Set Flash Base Address to 1FC00000, Length (Hex) to 200000, & Address Offset to 0.

· 2. Click on Action.

· 3. Choose Erase Flash & in a few minutes flash 2 will be erased. (may want to do this multiple times, 3 times is usually good, to assure it is completely empty).











· 1. Set Flash Base Address to 1FC00000

· 2. Set Length (Hex) to 200000.

· 3. Set Address Offset to 0.

· 4. Click Select & choose your good back up of U23.

· 5. Click on Action.

· 6. Choose Program

· 7. Once you click Program, you will see a popup window, just click YES. Let the blue progress bar go and wait until you see Done in the lower left corner of Wall.



Now either reflash u22 (Flash 1) back or let it stream update.


Follow this method to reflash 301.010 flash 2 (IC23).

· 1. With Jtag still hooked up, start Jkeys 2.0.1 & let’s reflash Flash 2.

· 2. Now make sure Flash 2 (IC23 or 1FC00000) is selected in the Region area.

· 3. Now click on Flash Programming.

· 4. Once you click Flash Programming, you will arrive at the window.

· 5. At the Flash Programming window make sure Flash2 (IC23-29LV160) is selected.

· 6. Make sure Full is selected.

· 7. Click Erase to erase Flash 1, (may want to do this multiple times, 3 times is usually good, to assure it is completely empty).

· 8. Once it is erased click Program.

· 9. Now you will be at an Open window.

· 10. Select you backup Dump.

· 11. Click Open and Jkeys will begin to reflash Flash 2.



Now either reflash u22 (Flash 1) back or let it stream update. To learn how to reflash u22 with Jkeys 2.0.1, download this:

[eevo66]

i gave up last night after a couple hours, thanks for the help sj. im kind of new to the 301's i have been doing all that with wall, problem is it doesnt seem to be successful, i tried to solder a simple jtaf to the connection and i cant seem to get anything, do u know the actuall connection sequence? i have followed 2 different diagrams. neither of them worked. i have 5 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistors, what side goes to the printer connection no one tells that side. thanks for your help sj

[smilingjack]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y96/smiling77551/jtag301.jpg

[eevo66]

thats the pattern i been following,what about the resistors? witch end goes to the db connector red black gold to the db or brown black to the connector?
i have had the wall download the u23 and after the down load the green light came on, but then wall was writing, after it finished writing the green light went out, damn thing has me scratchin, like i said im new to 301's but damn they cant be that much different

[smilingjack]

There are the easiet one to do
try eraseing the two bins.
adding the "boot disk" (in wall2)
and going back to j-leys 2_9_11_016 and adding the rest.
you might have add buffing to it, there are some shecmits in the files setion

[smilingjack]

The resistors work either way

[eevo66]

thanks again sj, ill be workin on it again tomorrow, long day at work today but u gave me a lot of info i thank you a great deal. i hope i can return the favor or pass this or something else along. ill post tomorrow and let u know how it worked

[eevo66]

im just not gettin it! i dont understand, i now have a simple jtage soldered to the connections in sequence as shown in the pic above, i erase flsh ic00000 3 times i then open u23 and set bytes to 60000, i open jkeys and close them i click program flash, it starts to download and after 140000 or so it stops wall goes white in outline for a few seconds and then comes back as a finished download but nothing happens
im f'n lost ready to smash both of these receivers

[smilingjack]

Get a buffer J-Tag

[eevo66]

have a buffer tag to i just gotyt ired of holding the thing for so long i switched it to a simple, when i use the buffered it downloads all the way but it seems like it doesnt take either. 301 suppoose to be easiest of all? probably im the stupidist lol im lost i know this jtag works cause i have read another 301 a few months ago with it and a couple legacy receivers. i think im gonna smash both of them and try to buy new ones

[eevo66]

ok so i didnt smash the receivers i had a second thought and decided not to do it lol. does any one have the diagrams to tag from the top? i want to try and solder from the top if anyone has digram plz post. ty

[smilingjack]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y96/smiling77551/jtag301.jpg

[smilingjack]

the top is the same as the bottom
the holes go right thought

[fubr]

here is the top side
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b252/afubr/top20jtag20points.jpg

[eevo66]

well I give up!!!!! soldering simple jtag doesnt work!!!! wont even read. so i use buffered jtag i erase flash 1fc00000, i program u23, i move jumper to write, and click ok blue status bar moves, green light comes on while download, after download, the left corner says download changes to Writing, after write is complete green light goes out and flash is still not programmed, maybe im doin something wrong still, i have tried it many different variations, with jumper without jumper etc.. erase not erase etc... ialso i set legth hex at 60000 and i played with jtag delay also, nothing works ,funny thing, it will read in jkeys 29 11 if i dont move the jtag meaning it has a good connection the whole time it was programming, so im lost i have no idea.

[smilingjack]

There are the easiet one to do
try eraseing the two bins.
adding the "boot disk" (in wall2)
and going back to j-leys 2_9_11_016 and adding the rest.
you might have add buffing to it, there are some shecmits in the files setion
.
There is nothing that has to be jumper, in fact jumper can fry it

[sfg]

I am having the same problem or very similar problem. Wall fails to write every time and jkeys with no lsi will write (takes and hour) but when done I still have no bootstrap.

I am convinced it has something to do with my jtag setup but I really don't know what. I have done 50+ 3100's successfully and then the last 2 I have don't work. I have a third I am afraid to touch till I figure out what the heck is happening.

I will keep you posted if I come up with anything.


sfg

[sfg]

well I just got one of the recievers figured out. Apparently it is extremely picky about the voltage you try to program at. 4.75 volts. 4.7 and lower, 4.8 and higher doesn't work. Fortunately I have a variable power supply.

I will keep working on the other one and post my results.


sfg

[sfg]

The other one turned out to be a bad repair on a trace. There was a connection but not a good one. Redid the repair and bingo. This one likely doesn't help you.

If you are sure about all your connections then I would be willing to bet its your voltage thats reaching the chip. Like I said, the other one was very picky about its voltage.


"green light comes on while download, after download, the left corner says download changes to Writing, after write is complete green light goes out and flash is still not programmed"

I am a little confused by this statement. If you are trying to program your tsop you won't do any downloading. You erase the tsop and then write the the good tsop to your ird.

Do not download what is on the reciever its useless. You need a good tsop. Sounds like you might be using a corrupt one. Hopefully you know what your boxkeys are! Get a good tsop, at this point I wouldn't really care if it has the correct boxkeys on it or not. You really want to get your bootstrap programmed. Once you get that done you get lsi control back and it gets much easier. When you program in Wall2 what exactly happens? Do u get a programming failed message? Describe the steps you go through exactly as you do them up to the point that it fails.

Don't f%&k with jkeys while you using Wall, use only Wall. You also need to make sure you set your hex length as the last thing before you program. If you do it before you pick your tsop for programming it resets to the default value of 200000.


sfg

[eevo66]

well lets see, i have tried so many things,only i dont have option of variable voltage, wall crashes if i solder the connections, but if i use factory buffered jtag and i set it up with weight on it so it doesnt move. when i click on on program flash its says in lower left corner downlading, the blue progress bar moves, when finished sometimes the left corner changes from download to writing, after finished flash isnt programmed, im thinking after what u wrote here that it must be about voltage, i lost my box keys for both 301's. my pc crashed and i had to formatt my disk(pissed me off to no end) so now i have down loaded some tsops and this is what im getting. tho im also thinking that thes receiver been fooled with before i bought them just a hunch,so maybe i need to find a virgin tsop and try from another place maybe its corrupt, ill blast C.O.C while im working on it help me concentrate better.
thanks SFG

[sfg]

follow these steps when using Wall.

reciever on with jtag powered.

open wall. wall should get and ID of your reciever. if not then something is wrong with your connections or your reciever.

Click action on top left and then hit erase flash. It should take 10 seconds or so if it doesn't its not erasing properly. hit the "reset ejtag" button and try again.

Next click action and then program flash. it will then prompt you to pick your flash bin for programming. Pick it.

At this point make sure your base address is !FC00000 THEN change the hex lenght to 60000. Do not do this before this point. ***you must make sure you set hex length to 6000 at this point***

Now hit action/program flash again. it should say its using slow programming. If the lower left corner says downloading I think there is something wrong at this point, you want it to say writing right away.

If you get "programming failed" at this point then its either voltage or you have a bad connection to your jtag. This is providing of course than your reciever hasn't been run over by a truck or something 'cause that would leave me to believe it was the reciever ;)

What kind of jtag do you have? Who makes it? Do you have picture? What voltage are you using?

I just download a good bell tsop from this site virgine537.rar currently #20 in downloads. Works good. Worst case you could use it to get you bootstrap written.

The key is not to get frustrated. It took me almost a year to get these recievers going again. (with a 360 day break in between attempts)


I am purposely trying to duplicate whats happening to you on one of my recievers right now to see if I can find out what causes it.


sfg

[eevo66]

thanks sfg i really appreciate ur help. i did get frustrated a few times and i havent played with any of these receivers in overt a week, however i remember last year i hAD A 6000 receiver soldered to a simple jtage and my dog knocked it off the table one day and causeing the soldered joints to rip from the receiver, im wondering if that did something to my printer port maybe i should try another pc and see if it makes a difference. however im not really in the mood to work on this stuff.

[sfg]

I know the feeling. I sat down at my computer everyday for almost a year and looked them without even wanting to touch them then one day I got the urge to work on them again. Took me 2 days but got them finally.

I bought a variable power supply on ebay for 30 bucks. Well worth it.


sfg

[eevo66]

SUCCESS "THANK YOU SMILINGJACK & SFG" i got the first 60000 written to my 301-10's and wrote the new universal tsops, both receivers working great. not sure but i think my lpt port got semi fried when i was working on my 6000 receiver i tried another computer and when i was in wall just b4 i clicked on write i unplugged receiver and plugged back in and instant write in 3 minutes both receivers are good. i tried the unplug with other pc but didnt seem to work, i also did it with simple jtag it seems to be easier than holding. any way thanks again for all the help. next couple days i will trouble shoot my 6000 i cant get jkeys to rocognize receiver but reciever works. cheers to the guys helping me i hope some time i can return the favor