501 Cannot Write

[scort]

I just got a 501 and was able to read it with an ancient Jtag. Thing is I want to put Romcode on it but It errors out when I try to write. Do not know if it needs a vidmod or if I am doing something wrong.... Thanks
scort

[mopar611]

I got your pm..

Please dont pm me.. There are several capable peeps here
that can just as easily help you out.. If nobody replies, than
I will.. If I allow every peep here to pm me, my box would be
full.. So dont take it personnally ok..

Ok, here is what you do..

Take the top off your 501.. Look around the top of the board, right
about in the middle for OJ1.. Soldier two wires there.. If wont be
easy to spot.. But its there..

Once you are done with that, ground OJ1, connect your 25 pin, then
plug your receiver in.. Than both red and green light will come on.. That
is when you know you did it right..

Than continue to Jtag your box..

Good Luck..

Mopar

[mopar611]

Oh ya..

I think you can ground pad 1 too..

Sorry I forgot.. I just dont do it that way.

I am just stuck in the way I do things...

Mopar

[scort]

I apologize first of all. Second I am not sure we are on the same page. This has a cut out for the jtag on the bottom.....

[mopar611]

Ya. No problem

Ground pad one through the jtag port.. I believe with the face facing you,
it will be on your right hand side..

Like I said.. Both of your lights will come on if you did it right..

Mopar

[The Lizard King]

I just got a 501 and was able to read it with an ancient Jtag. Thing is I want to put Romcode on it but It errors out when I try to write. Do not know if it needs a vidmod or if I am doing something wrong.... Thanks
scort
It sounds like it needs a vidmod, especially if it errors out at 95+%. Look at the U7 TSOP chip. If it is:

323DT --> no vidmod needed
323GT --> R44 vidmod
320DT --> 3 wire 1 cut vidmod

TLK :cool:

[scort]

It errors immediately when trying to write

[mopar611]

TLK, you have done more of these than I..

But I have never yet seen a 501 that needed a vid mod..

But by your post, there are some?

I have had several issues writing to them until I grounded pad 1
or OJ1..

Just never seen 501 done that way..

Mopar

[scort]

At the risk of sounding dumb, what do you mean ground out one.What exaclty do I have to do?I am inexpeienced with most of this as all my receivers have had jtags built in. The Jtag has an aligator clip that I grounded to ird case. I believe it had a blue card so I do not believe it needs a vidmod but I sure can be wrong... I know the software side of this alot better.......Any Help is greatly appreciated...

[scort]

It is a 323Dt

[scort]

How do I ground out pad 1? Do I run a line?

[mopar611]

Has nothing to do with your jtag connector..

Hook it up like usual..

Those pads you hook your jtag too.. We number them..

Your jtag should be touching 2,3,4,5 and 6.. Something like that..

So take pad number one.. Itll be next to two. And soldier a wire to it
and ground it to the same screw you are grounding your jtag too..

Take that clip ground from your jtag and use it to hold that other
end of the wire from pad one to hold it to ground..

I have to go now.. But its really simple...

I am sure someone else will get you going..

Mopar

[SuperManny]

Well you're in luck, you don't need a vidmod. Use a buffered jtag if possible, if you don't have one available a regular one should work. Sounds like it may not be connected properly if it errors out immediately. Check the jtag link at the top of all the pages, or the files section. Look for info on 501, 508, or 510, they're all similar

[scort]

Do I have to solder that ground on 1 or is there another way to ground one?
Also can I flash a 501 with my existing 510 flash?

[scort]

I grounded and flashed and now all I get is a red a green light on always and I cannot read with JTAG.GRRRRRRRRRRRR Help

[The Lizard King]

TLK, you have done more of these than I..

But I have never yet seen a 501 that needed a vid mod..

But by your post, there are some?
Yes, I have seen a couple that had 323GT U7 TSOP and needed the R44 vidmmod. I suspect that the 501s that I saw this way were refurbs.

TLK :cool:

[The Lizard King]

I grounded and flashed and now all I get is a red a green light on always and I cannot read with JTAG.GRRRRRRRRRRRR Help
Having both the red and green light while trying to jtag means that you are doing something right!

What version of jkeys are you using?

TLK :cool:

[ellsmako]

Hey scort, Mopar611 is on the ball as usual, but you never said if you shorted OJ1 or not.

Never had to ground pad one but who knows, mostly oj1 and good jtag.

[skinerd]

Do I have to solder that ground on 1 or is there another way to ground one?
Also can I flash a 501 with my existing 510 flash?

Shorting OJ1 is all that is ever needed.

The 501 can use the 510 flash IF it is a similar build config.
You cannot flash a DCKA 501 with a DC8A 510 flash, for example.
The 501 will need a virgin flash anyway to marry the hard drive.

[scort]

1.I read the flash.2.Modified flash for Romcode. 3.I Grounded pad 1 and got red and green and flashed with modified flash 100% no problem. 4. Unhooked and put into stream and still have red and green on with no picture. 5.Tried to read again and cannot find it with jkeys....

[skinerd]

1.I read the flash.2.Modified flash for Romcode. 3.I Grounded pad 1 and got red and green and flashed with modified flash 100% no problem. 4. Unhooked and put into stream and still have red and green on with no picture. 5.Tried to read again and cannot find it with jkeys....

It will go nowhere with both lights on.
Either you have a corrupt flash or it is stuck in link mode.
Why bother with pad 1 when OJ1 is all that is needed, and easier to do.
Jkeys won't find it?? What response does jkeys give?

[scort]

Cannot find,,just as if no receiver was connected Unknown Device

[skinerd]

Cannot find,,just as if no receiver was connected Unknown Device


Check your jtag connections carefully.......maybe one is not making good connection.

[scort]

I tried for quite some time. The Jtag points are pretty worn down now..

[scort]

Let's assume that I was so tired and not patient enough and I could not find it again. What do I have to do to set up Romcode correctly. Thanks

[scort]

0xFFFFFFFF instead of 000000000 with no receiver

[mopar611]

Having trouble now huh???

If both lights stay on, your flash is corrupt..

Now you are in a little trouble.. But this is testing
and your are a tester, correct??

If you continue to have problems detecting your flash..
Download a program called Wall. (WALL)

Then write Flash 2 of a virgin flash or the one I hope
you backed up that came off the receiver..

Anyways.. PVRs are one of the hardest receivers to flash..
They will fight you all the way..

But we can get you through it.. Just have patients..

Mopar

[scort]

Now my jtag programmer is screwed. 2 of the pins are not connected to the wires so they need to be re soldered or get a new JTAG. On top of that 95% of the solder on the Jtag pads is gone and it is enough that I am not sure it would connect even if my Jtager was fixed or new. I really do not know where to go from here. I really appreciate the help...

[hammer2002]

scort, you are experiencing what I went through a year ago. I eventually gave up and put the IRD in the attic. At the time it was showing the green and red lights constantly. Then, last week, I pulled it out, dusted it off and was very surprised to see it boot and show the original P085 revision. I took out my JTAG, grounded pin 1 and did a full backup without incident! I then modded the P085 firmware with the public numbers, threw in a 120gb hard drive, rewote the Flash 2, married the drive, let it stream update to P401 and it works perfect. I have no idea why a year ago I had no success and then it worked perfectly now.
Of course I just killed my 102s by writing all 00s to them so the 501 will sit and wait for an Atmega 256, if I can ever purchase one from this site.

You need to take your time, ensure the jtag is hooked up properly and that pin 1 of the jtag connector is grounded to the chassis before you power up. Since my JTAG has a toglge switch to ground pin 1 I hooked up a wire to the expansion port hex nut in the back and ran that to the jtag. Works good, Then when I'm finished I just roll up the wire and tuck it behind the unit. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Oh, by the way there is a step by step for making a jtag connector wired to the internal jtag port. If you kill the pads on the bottom of the unit this would be a good alternative. I don't have a link but if you can't find it let me know.

Hammer

[The Lizard King]

Okay, after all of this drama, I had to hunt down my old "how-to jtag a PVR 5XX IRD." Here goes. With the IRD unplugged:

1. Leave pad 1 alone! Don't solder jack shit to it.
2. Solder a long enough wire to the square pad of OJ1 so that it reaches the chassis of the IRD. I like to solder an alligator clip at the end of this long wire, so that I can directly clip the end of the wire to the metal chassis. Go ahead and fasten the OJ1 wire to the metal chassis by any means necessary (again, I use an alligator clip).
3. Clip the ground wire of your buffered jtag to the alligator clip described above in step #2, or whatever you are using instead of an alligator clip.
4. Turn on IRD. The green and red lights should illuminate on the front of the IRD if it is a PVR 501 or 508. NO lights will illuminate on the front of the IRD if it's a PVR 510.
5. Open jkeys. It will recognize your IRD as a 501.
6. Unclip the alligator clip (step #2) from the chassis WHILE KEEPING THE GROUND WIRE OF THE BUFFERED JTAG CONSTANTLY CLIPPED TO IT! In other words, the ground wire of your buffered jtag is now directly connected to the square pad of OJ1 with no hardware in between.
7. Enter flash programming. Do NOT power cycle the IRD like the the pop-up screen tells you to do. Just hit okay. The trap will set without power cycling on the PVR 5XXs.
8. Read and write to the TSOP and EEPROM until your heart's content.
9. When finished, close jkeys, power off the IRD, uncouple the ground wire of OJ1 (alligator clip from step #2) from the ground wire of your buffered jtag. At this point, make sure that your OJ1 alligator clip (step #2) is NOT touching anything metal on the IRD.
10. Power up the IRD, and only the green light should illuminate. If this is the case, then you are done!

TLK :cool:

[skinerd]

2. Solder a long enough wire to the square pad of OJ1 so that it reaches the chassis of the IRD. I like to solder an alligator clip at the end of this long wire, so that I can directly clip the end of the wire to the metal chassis. Go ahead and fasten the OJ1 wire to the metal chassis by any means necessary (again, I use an alligator clip).


OJ1 is 2 pads, a round one and a square one, easy to just jump them together.
If you are soldering to one anyway, just jump them together.

[scort]

Hey Skinerd..
I backed up the flash and modified it as per instructions for romcode. I put a temporary ground on pad one and got red and green and flashed with modified. Removed everything and put in stream with RC programmed card and I still have both lights. This was before my Jtag fell apart and the pads were not completely worn down from trying to read it again but could not.
The only thing I forgot to do is virginize the epprom if that is correct.
Do not know why I have red and green still and cannot read. I guess I need a new jtag and I guess I have to build up the pads? Your thoughts......
scort

[Workmen]

Hey Skinerd..
I backed up the flash and modified it as per instructions for romcode. I put a temporary ground on pad one and got red and green and flashed with modified. Removed everything and put in stream with RC programmed card and I still have both lights. This was before my Jtag fell apart and the pads were not completely worn down from trying to read it again but could not.
The only thing I forgot to do is virginize the epprom if that is correct.
Do not know why I have red and green still and cannot read. I guess I need a new jtag and I guess I have to build up the pads? Your thoughts......
scort

Check to make sure oj1 is not jumped and that pad 1 is still not grounded. A bad vidmod with blown cpu will cause both lights also! Hope not!

[skinerd]

Since this is a 501 hopefully a vid mod was not needed, bit like Workmen says, make sure you ungrounded everything.

Not sure if a corrupt flash will make both lights come on or not, I do so few 501s, and have no troubles, that I can't really relate to your problems.

I hate, with a passion, pogo pin jtags, I use a simple 25 pin D-sub connector with 5 180 ohm resistors soldered to it, solder it in temporarily, and never have a problem.

[scort]

Yea no vid mod needed here. Is there a link to 501 jtagging you recommend? The way you do it I mean..... Thanks...

[DonaldTheGiver]

i have done many 501, and personally i would just make your own homeade jtag and solder the little bastard on, that way you know you have a good connection. just my 2 cents.

[Justus]

I have 2 501's. I went to rat shack and got a micro toggle switch and soldered it to OJ1. This way you don't have to solder it over and over. To jtag you must set the switch to short.

1. open the newest GenDT08_SK program and open tsop R0045024458-PVR501-23AB-DFKA-10S-P080-U7 (or a virgin bin matching your build config) . Bullet in use ird secondary key.
2. under cam info open sub rom102(or the sk image u are using) for 501 with bullet in rom102 selected
I did not change anything under cam info.
3.under tsop info I changed IRD and Box keys to match sub rom102 image and clicked fix CRC. Went to cam info and back to tsop to make sure all was still ok.
4.clicked Calc SK, Apply SK, save keys(did not use these),saved patch(did not use these) and then went to file and saved the patched tsop.
5.open FlashEdit 2.0a.2 and loaded the modded tsop I saved in GenDt08, selected moved ird info, opened tsop, advanced tab, save as virgin eeprom and changed build config to one on 501 board.(used only to get virgin eeprom)
6. For this step u will need ird vid modded and 0j1 jump on to write.
Opened up jkeys 2.9.11 and erased u6 three times, u7 three times, wrote u7 only, wrote virgin eeprom, unplugged,unhooked oj1 and switch to normal mode, plugged back in for 2 minutes, unplugged ird,hooked up oj1 and switch to write mod, erased address SA 54 in Flash 2 three times, unhook power,unhooked oj1 and put volts to normal.
7.hooked up to stream with sub card in, with modded tiers, ppv string, blocker added and let it update till finished.
Note: For this to work you will need an SK Rom 102 bin(public or private); either ex-sub or subbed. If you want to know the difference between an sk rom102 bin and a DT08 bin just open the bin up in N2edit. A DT08 bin will have tiers: 09, 01 and 0A and a SK bin will have: 09 and 01 and no Ao tier.(under tier data).
To marry a hard drive you must use a virgin image.

This works for me everytime, no need to ground pad just OJ1. I also recommend using a buffered jtag. You also need to zero out the hard drive with the maxblast program, it can be downloaded from maxtors website.
Good Luck