DP301.013 all mods v2.1a

This is for the DP301.013, both Single and Dual Flash models.

On a DP301.013 (DP3013), you can erase, but you can't program. But, thanks to QuantumPhase, ElNonoMasa, satFTA, and others, now we CAN program the DP301.013. The vid mod is real easy. You will need a 220 Ohm 1/2 watt resistor (RadioShack Part #271-1111 package of 5 @$.99 US), a SPDT toggle switch (RadioShack Part #275-635 @$3.49 US), and a 1N4742A 1-Watt Zener Diode (RadioShack Part #276-563 package of 2 @$.99 US), and some wire. I use 20 Gauge solid wire (RadioShack Part #278-1216 @$4.69 US). I have tried this mod myself, and it works flawlessly. Here's how the vid mod goes. Mount your toggle switch somewhere on the back. I put mine right over the white sticker, next to the "sat in" feed. Now, look for "sb38", it is to the right of the right tsop (or tsop trace), if you are looking at it with the fromt to your chest. Trace that cuircuit coming toward you. It will circle to the left, and end up in a spot with four othe spots. They are arranged in two rows. The top row has two spots, and the bottom has three. We will be using the one on the bottom right. This spot is difficult to solder to. Make sure you do not accidentally bridge two of them together. Let's call this "The Spot" from here out. Next, cut the trace between "sb38" and "The Spot". Your third contact point is the left side of c44. You will find it near the front, just right of center. Your fourth contact point is the ground side of c68. It is just above and left of c44. It is an outline for a capacitor, but none is present. Solder one end of the 220 ohm resistor to c44, solder the other end of the resistor to the "banded" side of the diode, and solder the "non-banded" end of the diode to c68. The point where the diode and resistor meet is your 12.5 volt source. We will call this point "12v" from here on out. The leg, of the toggle switch, next to the "sat in" feed will go to "12v". The leg in the middle will go to "sb38". And the remaining leg will go to "The Spot". I know the two outer leg wires cross each other, but this way, when the toggle is pointed toward the "sat in" feed, it is normal. When it is pointed away, it is energizing the vid circuit with 12.5 volts. You can switch them around if you want to.



Now, on with the show...

All ird's I have jtag'd, accept for the DP301.005 and DP301.010, have worked best when pin 1 was shorted to ground. The DP301.013 is not an exception. So, here is what I recommend:

Let's use a DB9 serial port (RadioShack Part #276-1537 @$1.49 US) to do our jtagging. You will also need its counterpart (RadioShack Part #276-1538 @$1.49 US), and a hood (RadioShack Part #276-1539 @$1.49 US). I used a dremel tool to cut a hole in the case of my DP3013 to mount the db9 connector in the ird. This I highly recommend.

I used the male on the IRD and the female for the jtag. This is how to build the jtag reader\writer. First, solder 5 - 100 Ohm resistors to pins 2, 3, 4, 5, and 13 of db25. Now, solder 5 - 12 inch long wires to the 5 resistors and connect as follows:

Pin 2 of db25 to pin 1 of db9
Pin 3 of db25 to pin 2 of db9
Pin 4 of db25 to pin 3 of db9
Pin 5 of db25 to pin 5 of db9
Pin 13 of db35 to pin 4 of db 9
Bridged pins 18 through 25 of db25 to bridged pins 6 through 9 of db9 (Bridge pins 6 through 9 of db9, also, solder a small wire from this bridge to the metal casing of db9, but be carefull not to leave a heaping mound of solder, or you won't be able to put the hood over the connector properly)

Now for the internal stuff.

Mount your db9 in the back of the IRD. Make sure it is mounted to the case, as this will be our ground. Looking at top of IRD motherboard, with the back of IRD to your chest, look at the 20 pads in the middle of the board. They are layed out in two rows of ten. The bottom right pad is pad 6. Pad 5 is two pads to the left (skip 1 pad). Pad 4 is one pad to the left. Pad 3 is one pad to the left. Pad 2 is one pad to the left. And pad 1 is a bit trickier. To the left of the 20 pads, you will see a crystal with a capacitor on each side. Look above the crystal to see "R87". Just above that is "R79", but R79 has no resistor. Pad 1 is the right side of R79. Use your meter if you are uncertain. Solder wires between the pads and the db9 as follows:

Pad 1 of jtag pads to pin 6 of db9 (If you mounted the db9 to the IRD, you will not need to run a wire from ground, otherwise, run a wire from ground to pin 7 of db9)
Pad 2 of jtag pads to pin 1 of db9
Pad 3 of jtag pads to pin 2 of db9
Pad 4 of jtag pads to pin 3 of db9
pad 5 of jtag pads to pin 4 of db9
Pad 6 of jtag pads to pin 5 of db9

Your IRD is now fully modded. Future releases of this "Howto" will include instructions for actually using the darn thing.

ENJOY!

Birdie added: Here is a very simple Vid mod using a LM 7812 regulator, All parts are easy to find, Radio Shack even carries them.

[t160hq]

Here's a extra bit I picked up that will be helpful
to very easily get rid of the yellow card nag.
Tested and works. On the one I tested it on I
did not get 5D00 at address 7FFFFFAC but changed it to 0000 anyways and it still worked.

t160hq

------------------------

1- connect the jtag
2- do the vid mod
3- open jkeys
4- click on flash programming
5- reset the ird and click on ok
6- in the address section, write: 7FFFFFAC
7- click on read, 5D00 will appear
8- change it to 0000
9- click on program, remove the vid mod
10- enjoy!!! now you can use your atmega, roms & even your yellow card...

Hey bud...how ya doin.?..
all info is appreciated here...Nice to see ya again.

Greetings chupy! Nice to see you on this site. Like my buddy Darnat said, all info you can provide is much appreciated! Thx for all your input so far!!

I did VID Mod for my 301.013 4mb TSOP

I got Boxkey, IRD# and TSOP backup. I go to 7FFFFFAC it shows up 5D00. Change it to 0000, hit program I got the error. Tried Jkey 201, 2.9.9, 2.9.10 and Jkey301-013. All gave me same error. I earased SA49 and plug in. I got update but can not use rom10 card or Cemu.

I earased full TSOP. Reflashed it, but anytime it got 99% programed, I got error message Error writing at address 7FFFFF40 ( I believed this addess for IRD# and boxkey). I erased three times each time I reprogram TSOP and I tried more than 5 times I got the same message.

Now the Jkey read:

IRD info

IRD Model 301 - 3100
IRD# R 00 0000 0001-96
Boxkey: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
Build Cfg ?????? Boot Strap: ??????
Model ID: 10D Software: P200

Junkyard fix can fix this problem? What connection Point for 301.013 4mb Tsop IRD?


I'm crying. I tried many ways until 3:00AM could not figure out why. Anyone have any idea how to fix this. Thank you for all your helps.
:cry:

Good Luck

Good luck

I used BufferJtag, I did VID Mod. Try to reprogram Tsop (full). At 99% Tsop programed, I still get error message Error writing at address 7FFFFF40. It seems the TSOP is blocked at this address

IRD info

IRD Model 301 - 3100
IRD# R 00 0000 0001-96
Boxkey: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
Build Cfg ?????? Boot Strap: ??????
Model ID: 10D Software: P200

Junkyard fix can fix this problem? What connection Point for 301.013 4mb Tsop IRD? Would expert here give me a clue. Thank you for all helps.
:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

I got it work now. Thank you for all your helps.

I'm so dump. I flip the switch wrong side. It should be opposite with the VID.

ok I have a DP301-013 Ird with 1 tsop but with a ROM 10 card. I have the old DLock. but recently chuck has been ecm every one with that lock is there any way to erease MY Tsop and let it updates like we do with Model 301.010 or do I have to keep on Jumping it that sb39 and sb 40 still?